alainburon Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I need some advice from guys that have a T56 with and LS motor in a S30. I have ordered a level 4 Magnum TR-6060 transmission from Tick Performance. It’s a direct fit into and F Body Camaro but good for 900RWTQ. I’m looking into using the Katech LS9X twin disk clutch which is a ZR1 clutch modified to be used on an F Body Camaro. The clutch kit uses a ½†spacer between the transmission belhousing and the engine in order to accommodate the extra depth of the ZR1 clutch. My questions are Is there enough room to move the transmission back ½†without causing any major issues? Will the shifter be ok being moved back ½� Last but not least, does the drive shaft have to be shortened or is there enough play in the yoke to accommodate the extra ½� Your help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 In my car, (78 280Z) a half inch wouldn't cause any additional interference and the driveshaft would still work, although it might be tight when installing. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 With the basic JCI kit and a regular T56 bellhousing, my driveshaft needs to be shortened about 1/2 inch. I really have to wrestle it in and I feel I should have a little more longitudinal wiggle room. Another project to keep me from being ready in the spring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Keith, Are you using the small diameter JCI driveshaft and long nose R200? That's what I am using with the JCI mounts and have no driveshaft issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Yeah. I'm not having issues....yet. I have to use a dead blow hammer to get my flanges past each other then it bolts up fine. I don't like using hammers except on nails. I'd like to have a little more slop to make assembly easier and to make sure I'm not beating up the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 So you're getting a tranny thats good for 900 hp, good clutch (not my pick, but not my car) , and a 2.5" driveshaft with 1310 u-Joints? Put a loop on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Yeah. I'm not having issues....yet. I have to use a dead blow hammer to get my flanges past each other then it bolts up fine. I don't like using hammers except on nails. I'd like to have a little more slop to make assembly easier and to make sure I'm not beating up the tranny. In that case I may need to consider another clutch. I just want a twin disc that does not chatter or make noise at idle. I have the same car as Joe (rags) and if says it might be tight I may need to go another route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 So you're getting a tranny thats good for 900 hp, good clutch (not my pick, but not my car) , and a 2.5" driveshaft with 1310 u-Joints? Put a loop on it! Any suggestions on a twin disk that has good street manners? I have been all over LS1 tech but some of those guys are all over the place on what they think works well. I just don’t want any chattering or noise coming from it. I hope the drive shaft holds up, I wont be doing any drag racing at the track. just running around on the street but if it breaks I will just have to have one built that will take the extra torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfritts911 Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 I wouldn't even consider using the normal JCI driveshaft in a car with a tranny thats built to hold 900. Call up any reputable driveshaft shop and have them make you a custom 3 inch or 4 inch one, the JCI one is a little baby steel shaft. As for spacing the transmission back a half inch, I would think it would still fit, will be a little tighter around the front part of the tunnel, but should be fine. Can't speak on the clutch choice, I have a monster stage 3 and its been great aside from it kills other drivetrain parts, but its a 6 puck single disc so it doesnt really meet your manners requirement. -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 (edited) I wouldn't even consider using the normal JCI driveshaft in a car with a tranny thats built to hold 900. Call up any reputable driveshaft shop and have them make you a custom 3 inch or 4 inch one, the JCI one is a little baby steel shaft. As for spacing the transmission back a half inch, I would think it would still fit, will be a little tighter around the front part of the tunnel, but should be fine. Can't speak on the clutch choice, I have a monster stage 3 and its been great aside from it kills other drivetrain parts, but its a 6 puck single disc so it doesnt really meet your manners requirement. -Will My car will not put down anywhere near 900RWTQ. I'm expecting around 525 on motor and 650 on the gas. The reason I went with that transmission is that I don't have a T56 core to send in and have rebuilt. It appears the cores are now between $1,500 to $2,000 plus a stage 2 build at Tick Performance is around $1,400 without all the extras I'm having done like podwer coated case, new slave cylinder etc.. I just decided for a $1,000 more I can have something brand new that even the Viper spec T56 can't touch. Also I had a 6060 and it shifts so much better than the T56. As for the driveshaft, I may replace it depending how the JCI one does. I looked at Monster clutches as well but my experience with them is that they are awesome on the track but not very street friendly. I'm now thinking about a Mcleod or Spec twin discs set up but open to suggestions as well. Edited January 25, 2013 by alainburon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Just got back from the fabricators "office" where I've asked him to make me a custom driveshaft loop that will fit inside the tunnel and leave room for my exhaust system. Look in drivetrain section for a new thread about my driveshaft (did I just say I haven't had any trouble?). Jynxed myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 Thanks for all the input guys. I have decided to go with the Mcleod RST twin disc set up instead of the LS9. Seems like a lot of people are using it and it works well for what I'm looking to use it for. I was never too crazy about the spacer idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) McLeod uses its own slave cylinder,although the concept is the same as any other. The ls9 slave has a green baffled designed to keep dust from coming on the sides, but my experience suggests that the dust comes in on the end, so I don't think the boot is a real solution. Keep me posted over time if you have discolored hydraulic fluid all the time as I do. I assume you will use a steel bellhousing? I gotta go back maybe next year and do that. I think it is really helpful to have an opening in the bellhousing that lets you inspect your clutch engagement and look for hydraulic leaks. The shimming of the slave has to be perfect. The hydraulics have to be perfect too. The TIC master cyl is just a tilton with a rod end fitting on the push rod. There is nothing special or magic about the tic. I have purchased 5-6 different tilton masters and half of them were bad out of the box. Get an AN 3 plug and put it in the out port of the master. Bleed the brakes then make sure your master will hold pressure against that plug. If it doesn't, the master is bad. Check that before spending a lot of time looking for red herrings. That is a go-no-go test on the master. Also, cut the metric nut off the yoke for the push rod and have a SAE nut welded in its place so you can use the longer rod that comes with the new master. You can just swap rods and avoid the welding, but the Datsun rod is barely long enough and you want some adjustability. My datsun rod is fully extended even with a 1" master which makes for a pretty stiff pedal. Most guys are doing fine with a 7/8" master if they have a longer rod to allow full travel. The difference between 7/8 and 1" is very noticeable for pedal effort with the 1" being more stiff (think old school racing clutch). Hope that helps-I just shared most of my t56 problems that kept me on jack stands during the height of last racing season. Lots of t56 folklore on the Internet and it is 99.9% crap. Ill try to edit this later and show a picture of the dust all over my slave cylinder. IMG_0752.MOV Edited January 27, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Thanks for the advice Keith, I agree with your comment about the LS9 slave. I had a bunch of clutch problems with my Z06 and the dealer replaced the salve with an LS9 set up thinking that would fix the issue and it did not. Still was having dirty fluid and the clutch pedal sticking when you ran it hard. The only fix I found was to bleed it regularly. It sucks to have to do that but that was the only thing that would work for me on that car. I will install a remote bleeder on my 280Z to make easier because I'm sure I will have the same problem again. I was going to use the steel bellhousing but the guys at Tick Performance talked me out of it since I won't be taking my car to the track. They also talked me out of using the Mcleod slave cylinder, they claim nobody is making a better slave for this application than GM which is pretty sad. I will follow your advice on welding a SAE nut to have the proper adjustment. I will be using a 7/8 Wilwood MC for the clutch. I'm a long way from putting all this together but getting the parts ordered as I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 If you think you are not going to track this car, you'd better NEVER do it once. It is like CRACK! (Actually, I don't know anything about crack....) Do it once and you'll be back for more and think about it all the time. Go long when you put together your remote bleeder. Mine is 4' long and I wish it was about a foot longer. Think about where you'd place it to make bleeding easy. Not all remote bleeders have a speed bleeder-watch for that difference in products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Thanks for the help Keith. Your posts have helped me out alot during this build. I agree, racing is addicting that's why I'm going to try and stay away from bringing my car to the track. I used to go on a regular basis with other cars I owned and not only is it addicting it gets expensive because you will eventually start breaking things or you just want to make the car go faster and faster. Like they say, he with the deepest pockets wins..LOL I guess I can say that I got most of my drag racing out of my system already, now I just rather take my car to a car show, set up a fold out chair behind it with some cold beers, relax and talk about cars. I have met a lot of interesting and passionate people that way. Damm, does that mean I'm getting old? Say it isn't so....LOL Don't get me wrong I still love to go fast or I would not be sinking all this money in my S30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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