Ben's Z Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 "How To" says to have spring completely compressed on the tensioner. Not quite there as you can see. Suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve260z Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Good. Its not going to be flush with the spring housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Mine had an O-ring that was between the plunger and the housing so that looks about right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/46186-installing-timing-chain-when-rebuilding-motor-stand.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 This leads to something I had a question about anyhow. In the "How to" book it talks about multiple bright links on the chain. My new chain from Cloyes only has two... Also my slack side guide had no figure 8 or elongated hole on the bottom bolt hole. Per Peter at PMC and Z Greek, I elongated this for adjustment purposes with a dremel and rotary rasp. I will have to fool with getting the tensioner tighter this evening. I guess I am confused as to why the tensioner needs to be fully compressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 You can adjust if you'd like to have the tensioner flush with its housing. It is how it is suppose to be after install. To do so, you can play with chain guide position on top of the tensioner. To check your chain, you should see if your sproket is timed correctly & if the guides are not worn out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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