RebekahsZ Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Building exhaust for first time. This is probably just common sense, but should I put on v-bands as I go, or build it continuous then cut it down in sections and add v-bands once it is fully routed? I'm leaning toward doing v-bands last.....just trying to figure out how to limit the curse words and frustration. Anybody want to share experiences? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Don't start at the ends and work to the middle...that doesn't work. Start at the collectors, and work in a straight line all the way to the back. Don't skip around. (so put the v-bands in as you go...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Just got my done . Using 2 V-bands . I tacked the whole system all at the same time , a lot of tacks . Then dropped the system for complete welding . Moved around a lot to prevent warpage . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Add the clamps as you go. You will install and remove them a few times during the build process. Also, tack sections in place and verify fitment before any final welding. At least four tacks evenly spaced around the joint to reduce any possible distotortion at final weld. Joint fitup is important with gaps no larger then the width of the filler wire. You want to reduce as much drop through into the tube as possible. Try for something like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 (edited) I think one of the most important things to do is the mock up. Once I had my measurements, and cut the pieces I needed, I took Gorilla Tape and taped the whole exhaust together, and hung it under the car with some wire. (Granted I still use an L motor but it should be no different for a v8) Then once I tweaked for the fitment I wanted, I welded the pieces together, starting from the rear of the car, leading forward, and ending with a flange. Just get comfortable with getting out from under and then back under the vehicle many many times before you are done. Unless you have a lift, then I'm jealous. You can't be too creative. I used some line, jack stands, masking tape, stainless wire etc. Make sure you take a ton of pictures as you go! I love exhaust builds. Edited February 9, 2013 by OldAndyAndTheSea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Add the clamps as you go. You will install and remove them a few times during the build process. Also, tack sections in place and verify fitment before any final welding. At least four tacks evenly spaced around the joint to reduce any possible distotortion at final weld. Joint fitup is important with gaps no larger then the width of the filler wire. You want to reduce as much drop through into the tube as possible. Try for something like this: Nice pic. LOL . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Thanks for the advice fellas, and the pics - especially the turbo!!! I'll take lots of pics. Should I post them here, or in my build thread in the Member Projects forum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 (edited) As stated, build as you go. I have two straight pipes that have to be indexed so everything lines up. For these, I got them where I wanted them, and welded a strap between them to prevent rotation. Would recommend. Also, I would add another set of V bands (my plan upcoming) to the section shown here with the mufflers. It can be a bit clunky when installing / removing by yourself Another thing : Think about maintenance when making your exhaust. I placed my vbands just behind my tranny, so I just have to take out the middle section when I need to take the trans out. The rest stays in the car. Edited February 10, 2013 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 (edited) Made a bunch of tabs to be welded to the underside of car for muffler hangars to attach to. Loving my Milwaukee portaband saw and my Swag Offroad table attachment-that kit has saved me tons of time. Photos show final muffler mock-up and my lousy working conditions due to some home remodeling. Edited February 11, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 johnc-where in heavens did you find that photo? It is like a horrible traffic accident with carnage-I can't look away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01vincer6 Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 What are you going to do about that exhaust tip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 What's wrong with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Its not 5" OD and doesn't have blue/purple weld contamination. And it most certainly doesn't go Wooo Wooo! EDIT: Fixed the wooo wooo link... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dans toy Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 The only thing I would add is if you Vband at the 3" collector where the headers were cut and do your 90 with 3" you can install your 02 sensors on the inside angle and have less exhaust restriction than doing the reducer first and install the sensors in the 2 1/2" pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dans toy Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Excuse the arc welding. Thats all I do. http://youtu.be/UywoLYFDp44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Thanks for your video! I'm looking at your exhaust, bjhines, 1tuffz and domz and incorporating features of all of them. I'm gonna re-work my collectors some more before I have them welded up. I need to create more room for the big bend at the bottom. Gonna buy some string tomorrow to run under the car to act as a plumb line as I work back. The whole reason I'm doing this myself is to keep the exhaust tucked up as high as possible, allowing for the tranny crossmember and the diff. It looks like I'm gonna have to drop to the level of the bottom of the oilpan to allow for the big right angle that comes off the collector. Perhaps I'll get some work done tonight. An order I did late one night to Mandrel Bends Solution didn't go thru properly, so I'm gonna redo that tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Found a nice summary on v-band clamps in the exhaust forum. I overlapped the v-bands about 1/8", although my cuts aren't exactly square. I'm going to take the v-bands that mount to the header and get a few thousands milled off the inside so they will assemble and disassemble OK after the header is coated. I got my v-bands from SIS and you really have to pound them on with a hammer using a piece of wood as a drift. Ordered a few more v-band kits and "all" my stainless bends and tubing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 (edited) V-bands tacked onto Sanderson headers. Was able to just cut passenger side at an angle; passenger side needed a pie-cut section before the reducer to get the angle right. These are awesome and give me lots of clearance under the car now that the huge 3-bolt flange is gone. I can position the band-clamp bolt in a position that is easy to tighten. Wish the band clamp bolt was 1/4" longer-I have to remove the nut to get them on and off. Got a machinist to open the down-stream V-band a few thousandths to allow for the thickness of the future ceramic coating of the header. QUESTION: On, O2-sensor bung: johnc says closer to head is best. Based on that, I'm thinking I'm just going to have them welded directly into the collector since it is also the widest part of my exhaust until after the y-pipe (Dans toy says to put it in 3" section). Anybody think it matters how far into the collector it matters so that I'm measuring the average off all four primary tubes? Can I have the sensor TOO CLOSE to the primaries such that it only measures one of them and neglects the effect of the other 3? I just don't know how sensitive the sensors are.... Taking header to welder on Monday to have them finished up. Back under car to do some more mock-up. Edited February 16, 2013 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 Ok, toting mocked up tubes back and forth to welder is a big fail. Working on a plan to trailer car an hour away on Saturday to have a retired welder do the system with me so we can mock it up and weld it on the car. Got lucky today and one of my patients came into the office wearing his pipe fitter's cap and I sucked up to him. Luckily I did a great job on his eye surgery last year. There's a good chance all the tigging will get done this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dans toy Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Looks good! Not sure how close you should get to the primaries. I'd check out some stock manifolds for reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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