MrKrispy1183 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Ok, bought this car back in late '09, and it always started. Took it to my buddy who replaced the injector connectors and a few other minor things, and now the car refuses to spark. It'll turn over, but no spark, it at the dizzy, not at the coil, plugs, nada. Multimeter shows 12Volts at all the would-be trouble spots, so was thinking to replace the ballast/ignition coil resistor. Weird thing is, the one on this car looks nothing like the replacements I see online The resistor on this csr has 4 posts, whereas the ones I see online have only 2. I don't want to buy an ignition control module if it isn't even the problem and this could be solved. Help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Where are the usual trouble spots? Have you gone through the tests in the FSM? Resistance of the magnetic pickup coil in the distributor, ignition coil primary and secondary circuits, etc. Ballast resistor. Might as well check it before you buy a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4.6StangRage Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I would tackle the system one side to the other. Check if there is spark at the plugs, then cap then, check the signaling device (your ignition signal) then check power or signal going back to your ignition module. My Z had the pickup coil go out, in fact mine was cracked. I would look into checking resistance in the pick-up coil which is in the distributor. If there is an open (OL, meaning out of limits) that means that there is an open circuit with in the component. I would Re-Check things just to make sure you did not miss something because it sucks to purchase parts that are unnecessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrKrispy1183 Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Most definitely will be going back through everything. Weirdly enough, after searching online for hours, RockAuto sells an ignition coil with a ballast resistor that looks exactly like the one on the csr, so it's been ordered. I've checked voltage at plugs, coil leads, battery and all seems fine. There is no spark even at the ignition coil, and I've been attempting to properly test the ignition control module. Hope and pray its just the ballast resistor that is bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 You can move one wire and bypass the ballast. For testing. It's bypassed at Start anyway, so if it was bad the car should start, then die when you release the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 (edited) When I picked up my $300 junker '76 280z, it had no spark and it turned out to be a broken lead on the ignition module. It's located in the passenger foot well. There's about 6 wires (mine was a CA model) with screws holding each down. I still have my ignition module in my car and have been meaning to remove it for a while now if you think yours is bad. Might also want to check the air gap for the VR pickup inside the distributor too. I would imagine If it can't sense an RPM signal it won't fire. It would have to be really bad for it not to catch the signal though. Edited February 11, 2013 by Metro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Well it would seem logical to go back over all the things your friend messed with if it was working ok before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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