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L28E Wont Stay Running ?!?!


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Hello all, my names Shane i just joined this forum but was on zcar.com by the same name, and i couldent exactly get the awnsers i needed and everyone advised to come here so i did!

 

My car is a S30 76 datsun 280z with 74k orignal miles all stock L28E

 

Now the reason im here, when i bought the car the guy had it from 82 (im the third owner) but it had been sitting 4 years. So the day i went to buy it he told that he had it running to warm it up (the clutch was frozen so i couldent test drive it) but when i got there he explained to me that he had it running for a few mins while he was in the house and when he came back out it was shut off, he tried to start it agin but it would only idle for 2-5 seconds then die,

 

When i got the car home i did a coupple thing to it to freshen it up and fix the clutch, changed the oil, filter, spark plugs, drained the tank and added 10 gallon of 93 + fuel injector cleaner, changed the fuel pump (he had a new one to go along with it) and changed the clutch,pressure plate, thowout bearing, slave cilinder, and master cilinder.

So the problem its still doing the same thing from when i bought it (starts up and idles for 2-5 seconds then dies), i figured if it was like any other nissan (had a 89 nissan 240sx coupe with a ka24e) that if you MAF was bad you could unplug it and the car would still start and eather run like shit (rich as hell) or just idle for a few seconds and die, so i tried that and figured that the AFM was bad and ordered a remanufactured one.

Well it came in the mail today and tried that but yet its still doing the same thing.

Also i changed the boot from the throttle body to the AFM because there was a dry rot crack in it, and i check the intake mani and all hoses for any ail leaks thinking it might be sucking air and leaning it out causing it to die, but still found nothing....

So i plan on changing the fuel pressure regulator tomrow (the one on the fuel rail) had ordered one but never put it on.

Also i have a new PCV valve for it never put it on yet eather, was wondering if that would have any thing to do with it ? (i wouldent imagine it would cause its for emissions)

 

Does any one have any experince with these setups or has this happened to any one else ? i checked the voltage going to it and it all checks out ( dont know exactly what it should be getting but it seems about what it should be)  

Thank you all for looking just hoping to get it running right cause if i cant soon im just going to do a SR20DET swap into it with every thing from mckenny motorsports, As much as i would love to keep the origonal L28E if i cant get this thing figured out ill end up swaping it

 

Oh and sorry if my spelling sucks i know it does just always has (got bashed on ZCAR.com for my spelling)

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Sorry guys forgot to ask one thing, i was wondering is there any way to bench test the injectors? im thinking there might be one stuck open/wont fire, can i just pop them off still attached to the fuel rail and try and trick the fuel pump on from the AFM flap ? or do i have to take them some where and have them tested that way ?

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There are small computer units that detect when an injector is firing. They're fairly inexpensive but I think that would be a good place to start if you think they might be bad. You could also check the fuel injector connectors. They're known for breaking easily.

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