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Everything posted by Pac_Man

  1. You're talking about the one that goes on at the end of the turbo exhaust side right? I never could find one, but I went with an external wastegate and swapped the covers to block the internal wastegate hole. Doing that seemed easier than finding the right gasket. You could try using a 7 bolt one and drilling out a hole for the wastegate.
  2. I went from a stock L28 with an Exedy clutch to a stock L28ET with a Fidanza flywheel and Exedy OE replacement clutch. I didn't notice a change in driveability, nor did I have to alter how I drive the car.
  3. Found a picture for ya, best one I have.
  4. I wasn't aware of this... do you mean the rubber mount itself is different? I ended up getting a transmission crossmember from a 280zx turbo which has a little hump that moves the mount back 15mm. From research I discovered that the l28et t5 mount sits back 30mm, so I had a local guy cut and weld the middle section back an additional 15mm and it worked perfectly. Got a brand new custom driveshaft from Powertrain Industries with serviceable zerk fitting u joints for just shy of $300 shipped to my door. With the amount that the only local driveshaft shop wanted to set me up with what I needed, I
  5. I reused the alternator that was in the car previously. Externally regulated 280Z alternator.
  6. Haven't done much to it for a while until recently. I bought an intercooler so I've been working on getting that to fit well. I've got the outlet->intake mocked up but the turbo->inlet is proving to be much trickier. I managed to get my AFM situation figured out- had to relocate it because the intake pipe/filter went through the core support on the driver side but I'm using that space for the intercooler piping. I also added some extra grounds to see if the car would react at all... nothing. There's something funky with my electrical system, at least for my gauges. My oil pressure
  7. P90a heads have been documented as having factory solid lifters before. It's uncommon, but known.
  8. Have you checked your fuel pressure? That's a good place to start. Checking for vacuum leaks is also a good start. They're both pretty easy to do and don't require any fancy or expensive equipment.
  9. Like was previously mentioned, the stock l28et manifold has an emergency pop-off valve which will vent excess boost pressure at a certain point. Enough that I removed mine in order to run an 8 psi spring. It was a while ago, but I know that I removed it because it would have caused issues at 8 psi if I left it on. It basically creates a boost leak, which would make the car lose power and stumble until the pressure goes back down.
  10. Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea
  11. Alternatively, the Z31 turbo connectors can be cut off the harness and spliced in. I think they have a slightly different style of clip so they're more secure.
  12. If the red charge light is on or the voltage gauge isn't working at all, then the battery won't charge. Just FYI
  13. That depends on your goals. I believe they're ball bearing but they have a ceramic turbine so they're sensitive to higher boost levels. Can't remember at what PSI they start to let go though, but I want to say it's something like 15 PSI is pushing it.
  14. Well, the new FPR definitely helped a lot. Of course the car still isn't running right... And it turns out I'm a dummy and don't know how narrowband AFR gauges work. What I thought was rich is lean and vice versa. Fuel pressure is where it should be but the gauge is very erratic with the car running. Not sure if that's normal. With my new knowledge I know that the idle is lean, not rich. FPR has helped a little but not much it seems. So knowing now that the idle is lean I have to completely change my way of thinking. Under boost the AFR gets richer so that's a good sign.. Here's
  15. That's the plan, sheen. I did make sure the lines are corrected right. I do have fuel in the return line, so if it is in fact a blockage my guess would be it's in the fuel rail since I didn't have an issue before. New FPR is on the way and it's adjustable with a pressure gauge built in. Worst case scenario, I end up with an adjustable FPR. We'll see how the car behaves after replacing it, I really haven't had the time to work on it (just started a new job yesterday).
  16. The straight barb connection is receiving fuel and the curved is connected to the return line. Since the mounting bolts only line up one way I'm fairly certain it's not corrected wrong.
  17. At this point I'm basically talking to myself, but the goal of this thread is really just to provide a recent chronicling of the classic L28ET swap so hopefully continuing to tack stuff on won't hurt. In the spirit of actually doing diagnosis, I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail and ended up with a reading of 70 psi while priming and a severely erratic needle jumping between ~60-80 psi at idle. Removing the vacuum line had no effect. I didn't have this issue before, and I know my fuel pressure was not that high with the original engine. At this p
  18. Been driving the car a bit but getting what seems to be pretty shitty gas mileage. Speedometer doesn't work and I can't really determine why so I'll probably have to unbolt the cable, see if the gear is spinning, and if it is then my issue would likely be the drive cable itself. The car is running pig rich. I got some more posi-taps yesterday and hooked up the O2 sensor to my AFR gauge and it isn't even registering most of the time. I get a single block of red every once in a while. Drove it around the neighborhood and put it under some boost as well and nothing changed. This rich condit
  19. Thanks for the advice, cgsheen. I'm using the stock manifold and stock setup, minus the EGR and pop-off valve (I know it's there for safety, but with boost levels barely above stock my research determined it would cause issues on boost). I'll test the air control valve when I get the chance. Turns out I'm pretty dumb. I got exhaust done yesterday and upon inspecting it found that the vacuum line for the wastegate has been disconnected. Huge vacuum leak. I should have realized when my boost gauge showed -6 psi at idle but never really bothered to look at the conversion to inHg. With
  20. I remember there being a difference with bolt size, 10mm vs 12mm in the S30/130 R200 and Z31. I can't remember which is which, though. EDIT: Ugh, didn't realize how old that discussion was. Going to search and see if I can find it but if anyone knows off the top of their head it would be very helpful.
  21. I took a look at their website and my impression is that the pistons are custom made to order. Initial look at the surface of the piston tells me they are probably forged, and Venolia's website states they make forged pistons. Given that the difference between the dished and flat top L28 piston dish CC is 10.9 CCs and the resulting difference in compression ratio seems to be about another 1.5:1, I would probably guess somewhere around a 10:1 compression ratio with an E88 head. It is just a guess, though. If they're actually custom it would be difficult to know for sure without measuring
  22. I tried using a friend's spare ECU which he had in his car and it was running fine. Still having the idle death upon warm up issue. I drove the car to the exhaust shop and back essentially problem-free. Thermostat was out and it never really seemed to warm up as a result. However, the car was warmer once I got back and the temp needle started to climb. Within maybe a minute of sitting in the driveway, the car died just like it has been. i replaced the CHTS just to be sure and it hasn't changed anything. I suspected maybe my fuel pump, but then the issue would probably be more prominent w
  23. If you can do all the disassembly yourself I can't imagine you'd get railed on cost to have one guide replaced. That said, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do them all and maybe even have a valve job done or at least have the head inspected. That being said, I know all too well the feeling of just doing what absolutely needs to be done due to budget constraints. I have a local small-time shop where I get most of my stuff done- flywheel resurfacing, mainly. But they also removed a broken stud from an exhaust manifold and put my wrist pins in. I can generally expect most of what I go in there
  24. Asking around definitely can't hurt. I get flywheels resurfaced at Jay's Machine Shop in Everett and I needed my transmission mount modified. Talked to a guy there and he pointed me to some old hot rod guy who works out of his garage in the middle of the forest of northwest Marysville. Unfortunately I can't really make any recommendations myself. Only thing I can think of trying is to call Z Sport in Everett, ask for Chuck or Mike if he's not available- both have been working there for a long time and know Z cars pretty well. If they don't think they could do it for you then they could p
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