mattb3562 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Ok everyone, I'm finally in the process of building the PCB of my ecu. I just had a few questions for those of you who have done this. I got thru the power supply and communication sections of the build last nite.(per the megamanual guide) power tests well and have not checked communication with megatune yet. What I'm wondering is if there are anything specific to our cars, running an l28et with CAS in the distributor, that I need to modify while I'm doing all my soldering? I'm assuming the jumper from ign to js10 is just for MS2? Also, if I decide to run the 'extra' code, can I just download the firmware and install it later without modifying the board? I'm still trying to find the real benefits of it. Thanks to all, in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 To use the CAS you just need to solder in a jumper resister. You can do that at any time. Are you using ms1 or ms2 and which board? I think it would be best to download the latest firmware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBilly Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 (edited) I built my MS1 V3 MSnS setup pretty much directly from the V3 build manual. Build it up to use a Hall sensor, and follow the directions on "How to Megasquirt your 280ZX turbo" from the DIY site: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm I followed that article to a tee and everything worked just like it should. If you haven't got there yet, take extra extra extra care when soldering on the tiny little transistors (i.e. Q15, etc). I learned the hard way that it's very easy to short out the leads with just the tiniest amount of excess solder. My bunked solder job luckily didn't hurt anything, but it made one bank of injectors inoperable and caused me weeks of grief trying to figure out the problem. Yes, you can download the firmware and install it without modifying the board. EDIT: While you are building the board there are a few modifications you might consider doing while you are at it: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94634-non-standard-board-mods-that-you-should-do-from-the-beginning/ I had the same problems letitsnow had and I fixed them using his advice on that thread. I didn't do anything in the paragraph where he talks about the 47uF cap, but I did do his steps 1, 2 and 3 and I soldered the .1uF cap across pin 2 and pin 6 on the backside of the CPU socket. Edited February 27, 2013 by OhBilly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 I m building the ms1 v3 board. That is exactly what I was looking for in Snows post. I was already gonna wire js3 for a relayed fan control, but I will definitely jump the tip125s for the dedicated injector power. Should I go ahead and put the cap between 2 and 6 or wait to see if I have the reset problem? Are alot of you experiencing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skirkland1980 Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I've never experienced resets but there is always noise with the sensors and inputs. I'm thinking about trying those mods just to see if it fixes the noise. Both my cars run great though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattb3562 Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 ok, I was gonna wire the js3 output for relay control to a fan, but the directions on diyautotune shows a resistor and a transistor in the proto area on the board. I put in a 1k resistor for the mod but the only transistors I have left are Q22-23 and they don't look like the one they have in the pic. what are my options to fix this and use js3/pin3 for my relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Yeah I just got my MS2 v3 up and running and in a data log you can see random voltage spikes as high as 18 volts. And when cruising it will cut out at random (feels like a burn). Ive seen at least 5 different ways to fix this. Some say a cap to the transistor legs. Some say a cap on the H1 position (boot header). and now letitsnow says he used 4 or 5 caps all over the place. Ive seen more people solve their problem with just a 47uF on the H1 position or 47uF on the transistors. Think i may try the H1 mod first to see if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randall Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 (edited) Alright well i added a 47uF 35v cap to the H1 position and im getting a constant battV in the data log. Now only problem is very rarely ill see a rpm spike all the way to 6000 rpm... Edited March 7, 2013 by Randall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Cramer Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 ok, I was gonna wire the js3 output for relay control to a fan, but the directions on diyautotune shows a resistor and a transistor in the proto area on the board. I put in a 1k resistor for the mod but the only transistors I have left are Q22-23 and they don't look like the one they have in the pic. what are my options to fix this and use js3/pin3 for my relay? You'll need to get an extra transistor; the kits come with the parts for a standard build, but not for optional circuits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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