EastTnZ Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) Obviously I won't be buying the JCI driveshaft now lol but I have questions for the hybridz brains out there. The trans is from a 2011 Camaro SS and bolts right up to my 5.3 and clutch setup I bought from monster clutches. My question is that since its fixed yoke and the IRS is fixed in the back what is a better driveshaft option: cv driveshaft on one end (trans side) with fixed on the other end (IRS) or get a slip driveshaft made from a 4x4 shop? The cv one from driveshaft shop online is $900 so I'm trying to get away a little cheaper than that. I got the trans pretty cheap $1450 and it only has 2k miles on it. Plus it'll hold 700 ft/lbs. I don't however want to swap tail housings due to shifter locations of the t56 magnum. Max goal is 350-375rwhp. I don't wanna worry about keeping extra cv axles with me all the time. This may be one of the first tr6060 retro fits into a z on here I believe. I've got the shifter location all worked out already. Thanks in advance! Edited March 13, 2013 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Try to envision what it is gonna take to install and remove the driveshaft. I'm not sure what play you have in the CV-style driveshaft, but everytime I remove and install my motor or rearend, the length of the driveshaft has to be slightly longer or shorter (nothing ever lines up the same, exactly. Also, your differential and transmission move around some in the car during operation. Make sure you leave yourself wiggle room for these minor imperfections. Just don't assume it will line up the same everytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 Good point thanks. I think the cv shaft is an inch of play but they say it's plenty of room for the application but I'm like you in installing it and removing it would like some extra play. Plus the slip driveshaft is going to be cheaper by a long shot. Is the adapter a one off piece from JCI for the rear end or is it something I can get made? I'm just starting to look into driveline setups. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattd428 Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 what about getting a camaro driveshaft shortening it and making an adapter to connect from the camaro drive shaft to the r200 diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 Yeah that thought crossed my mind but I would have to add a bracket between the two mounting points up in the tunnel, I just figured it would be easier to go another route. I found a site for the 3 bolt adapter to a 1350 size u-joint ($150). What size u-joints are in the JCI kit and can somebody post a pic of their driveshaft mounted to the r200? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 JCI has your driveshaft made to order. You will need to measure the specifics of your differential flange for him and you will want to give him the measurement from the back of the transmission to the differential flange. Ask for a 3" driveshaft (his standard is 2"). See if he can get aluminum. I think the front yoke is standard Chevy stuff and the u-joints and rear flange are stock things he has on the shelf, but evidently there are a bazillion different differential flanges for the R200, so you need to call him with your specifics and measure twice. John is really cool-call him and discuss your needs-it is worth a phone call. Get the ph# from brokenkitty.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 Yeah I think I'm gonna go that route. I'll update the topic when I get it solved and with pics for future reference. Thanks for the input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 The JTR flange that mates to the R200 is only a 1310 u-joint. To my knowledge, no one makes a larger flange (not that it should be a problem - power level and usage depending) I would just go with a slip yoke. No sense in complicating things and making them more expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 Thanks Sunny that's what I needed. I called JCI today and talked to John himself. He said he's never dealt with the TR6060 but if I give him the dimensions that his driveshaft guy would take a look at it and try to get me one made for my application. So I'm gonna mount the engine and make a custom trans mount then get the specs to him. The tr6060 conversion flange to a spicer u-joint from a private vendor online is a 1350 size for the 3 prong setup that this fixed tranny uses. I may get that flange and have JCI make me a slip driveshaft from the 1350 to the r200 because they already have the r200 flanges in stock I assume. To go slip yoke I'd have to switch to a t56 magnum tailhousing and it's shifter location(dont like it) as well as the mainshaft and other odds and ends. Costs too much and yeah for that price I could buy a T56 built. There's a guy on ls1tech who has this setup in a miata and said he would do the same all over ($330 slip driveshaft from somewhere in NC, so I could go that route). Thanks for all the help/info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 (edited) Ok so here goes nothing... my update to this topic is that I kept the TR6060 trans and at first built a shifter that attached on top of the rear of the trans and when I went to install it into the Z it did not fit due to room constraints in the tunnel unless I wanted to cutout a huge hole to let it breath. So as of now the shifter is bolted to the transmission tunnel inside the cab to the body and the shifter linkage is connecting the shifter to the trans. Next is the driveline... The back of the TR6060 is a 3 prong setup fixed yoke and takes a conversion flange with a part number GTOPL-2 ($160 new) or similar version made of billet aluminum and guaranteed not to give any vibration even at 10k rpm. After that the adapter lets you bolt on a 1350 4 Bolt u joint to it (standard 4 bolt pattern) and use either a slip driveshaft (what I did) or a more expensive CV style driveshaft (hundreds more). My driveshaft length from adapter plate to centerline of the 1310 u-joint was only 23-9/16" long. Lastly the other end of my driveshaft is outfitted with a 1310 u-joint to mate up to my adapter to the R200 (had to buy longer bolts with new flange). And a RT style diff mount. I hope this picture loads if not then just checkout my flickr page in my signature the pictures are all there. Oliver's Driveshaft in NC made mine and have quick turn around (<1 week to my door), and any driveshaft shop can do this but I used them since it worked already for a couple of other guys with the same setup on ls1tech.com. Recap: TR6060 (less $ more TQ) + GTOPL-2 ($100 used) + Slip Driveshaft ($280) + Neapco 2-2-899-1 ($50) + Longer R200 Bolts (<$15) PS... Make sure you get the right pilot bearing for the TR6060, it's not the same as the T56. http://www.flickr.com/photos/easttnz/9510191859/ Edited September 8, 2013 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Do you have any in car pictures of shifter placement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) Ok, I actually did not attach it to the trans tunnel as it screwed with the alignment of the shifter linkage rod I made. I installed the 4 point bracket and connected the linkage rod. Sadly I have no real good pics of the console removed and it installed. I did not cut out any more from the factory hole in the tunnel. However since it is a remote mount shifter you could make it go wherever you need it to go. I copied a few others I saw from ls1tech and other sites. Not many to copy from though. It's a newer tranny to swap. I figured out how to add pics on here I think! (thanks Keith!!) Edited April 21, 2014 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 I can vouch-it feels good. I still haven't gotten to drive it yet, hint-hint!?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 Yeah I know I felt bad not swapping to drive but I'm still grinding 2nd and 3rd bad on this Trans. It needs a rebuild so bad, I'm gonna teach the fiancé to drive a stick with it first then send it in to get rebuilt haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Adam just rebuilt his. I'd send him a PM, he can either walk you thru it or maybe do it for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 (edited) Yeah I'm going to look into the cost of parts and the difficulty of rebuilding myself. I've heard just takes billion pictures and be careful and it can be done. We'll see as it'll save a lot of money. Shifting is smooth when it doesn't grind. Ran the dog crap out of it today past 5k rpms through 3rd and 4th gear earlier and no ticking afterward so we'll see but I'm still thinking cam/lifters/tune (+75 rwhp)... Back on the original subject, the trans shifter mount was cake, .75" angle and some bar stock steel and a tko500/600 takeoff shifter. Little bit of welding and bam done. Shifter placement is wherever you want and it's pretty nice but you have to build a custom crossmember too. John wants to know how I accomplished it and probably sell it as a kit piece if I get back to him with it but I haven't had the time. Too busy fending off the people wanting to buy it every time I stop somewhere haha Oh and a pro 5.0 shift lever and 6 speed ball. Edited April 21, 2014 by EastTnZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thezguy Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 (edited) Surprised your having trouble with it grinding.. Are these not suppose to be the end all be all 6spd? Im still debating on selling my desirable GTO T56 for one but man its tough. The T-56 is a solid trans and fits perfect in the Z Edited April 21, 2014 by thezguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 If you've already got it installed I'd leave it or just build it stronger. It's not worth the hassle if yours is fine. However I'm going to rebuild this one and it'll be fine. If you purchase one of these I reccomend new. Nobody sells a good shifting no problem 6 speed transmission. There's a reason they're selling it. 9/10 are all bad and have issues. Grinding I knew about but it was a "good deal" at the time because it's a $3k+ Trans new. Time to rebuild it and have fun with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 These transmissions aren't as forgiving of missed shifts as the old T56's are. That being said, they are a bossy transmission! Can't wait to give a review on mine!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 I love the feel of it besides 2/3 grinding. When they hook it moves on with it! I love it but I look like a 12 year old stealing a car when I grind it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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