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Everything posted by EastTnZ

  1. Had some time this past weekend to install my synthetic seat covers from interior innovations. Definently would buyfrom them again. It’s only $215 or so for stock replacement covers. Took me around 4.5 hours from start to finish. They have some built in padding so they are very cushy I love driving my Z even more now that the seams aren’t ripping out of the seats! Hog ties work great and I got some from Lowes to get the job done ($2 for 40). Found a note under the seat on how to warm up the engine lol. It’s been there a while...
  2. Well after finding a little time I’m chasing down a glitch in my blinker wiring. I upgraded the relay to an EF32 relay off Amazon ($8.99 shipped) and that fixed the constant clicking like the battery was dead to a typical slow clicking sound. But my lights still do not come on. Neither do they with the flashers switch on either. The whole car worked when I bought it but once I took out the dash and reinstalled it I hadn’t had the time to hookup the blinkers. Now that I have they don’t work lol hoping to clean out the hazard switch and then the column ordeal. Hopefully that’ll fix it.
  3. Well I haven’t had time to hit up the local pullapart and after doing more research I wound up finding a diff online. Thru 11/06/06 Explorer/Mountaineer rear differential. It was what I was looking for and I eventually picked one up for $115 shipped to the house. Granted it’s 3.55 and an open diff but lockers are cheap compared to r200 stuff and it’ll be brand new. Axles from the same place were $41 each shipped. As you can see from the pictures they are quite a bit larger in diameter and have enough room on the dogbones to shorten, mill and respline to 300zx turbo axle spline specs. The pictu
  4. Rear 2007 Explorer diff cover came in. It’ll need a good sandblasting ($20) and possible powdercoat job but it’s here! 7L2Z4033B Ford part number. Bushings for the diff mount are Prothane Bushings 91634545 19-603-BL (scored for $3.21 off Amazon prime because of a slightly crushed box 😂). Next is a trip to the local pullapart for an explorer diff and cv axles ($160).
  5. Honestly it's been so long I'm not sure. These are two different z's so I'll have a combo of the two and beef up the mounts where needed. The single ear diffs are plentiful in the junkyard but I'm hoping to find a dual front eared explorer diff in my searching.
  6. I just found some time to read through 5 pages of this setup. I do like the way it’s headed but I’m probably going to do something similar to what I’m attaching pictures of below. I have kept these pictures on my phone in an album for years so I could remember what the part numbers and stuff used were. The diff will move upwards under heavy launches and acceleration in general so I will be mounting a brace to the transmission tunnel somehow. I love having a welder at home, just wish I had that 4 post lift in one of the posts in that link in my garage!!!
  7. Thanks but I didn’t paint the car myself, I had a local budget paint shop do it for me. They wouldn’t strip off the plastidip so I had to do that myself. It’s not the best but it’s a 10 footer lol. Hey! Funny thing is I just picked up a 2007 Explorer diff cover like SunnyZ to bolt in my own 8.8 setup. It will cost around $600 total, then with selling the other 300zx turbo parts I already have I will come out nearly even and have a Ford 8.8 IRS. Stay tuned for more (it could be a year though based on me not driving it for a while, I’m tired of it being out of commission)!
  8. After having our first child 12 weeks ago I found the time to strip off the plastidip and cash to get a coat of paint slapped on the old Z. GM Torch Red suits it well! I liked the white that was on it but deep down I like washing red cars. Added attention already I can tell just from driving home from the paint shop. I acquired a used 240z rear bumper that needs some polishing, new rear factory size speakers, FairladyZ emblem for my victory spoiler and some other goodies I’ll be installing in the coming months. It’s been nearly a month since the paint job. I have a lot of polishing and waxing
  9. I typed in "5.3 windage tray on ls1" on google and look at the images tab. Their are 10 bolts that hold it on. Cutoff 20% of the front of the pan. This will be right in front of the second set of bolt holes (leave 8 bolt holes left to attach it to the engine). http://forums.hybridz.org/gallery/image/28961-random-toolscustom-partsmcwindage-tray-mods/
  10. I'm actually running a 5.3 windage tray with an ls1 oil pan on my 5.3. I saw a post somewhere and it showed how far back to cut the windage tray off on the 5.3 one and I've not had any problems at all with it. 5 minutes with a cutoff wheel and done!
  11. I typically go into the auto parts stores and they let me behind the counter and I looked for the perfect size and then they'll ring it up. My heater control valve was the first thing I fixed on my z 4 years ago! Bronco heater control valve was my replacement for the factory one until I went with a new vintage air unit.
  12. Hi, I'm looking for a used msa victory or retro spec downforce spoiler for my 280z. Fiberglass is acceptable. Looking at all tall spoilers but not the whale tail style. If you have one you are interested in letting go please PM me or comment below. Thank you
  13. Not yet, I'm still waiting on new wastegate outlet clamps so I can line up and weld the pipe this time. I will be taking it to the track soon hopefully!
  14. Well I've been driving/fixing the tune and have ran a 1/2 mile event earlier this month with RenekahsZ! Being able to run wide open without a speed limit is just flat awesome. Sadly I only made 1 shake down pass up to 5k rpm for 5 gears and ran 125 mph. I'm currently waiting on new clamps for my wastegate downpipe because I blew it off between the 3-4 or 4-5 shift on the track. I want to drive this car every day!!! I am only running a 5lb spring right now and it is very streetable but I've had a 10 lb spring installed for a short time and it is a completely different animal! Ridiculously fast
  15. Sorry I'm late to the party lol! I used the 4" gauges and have them slid into the back of the factory black pods very tight with a piece of 3/8" vacuum hose all the way around. Works very well (nearly 12k miles so far). I even put some set screws in behind them just so they wouldn't fall in worse case scenario. I found this install method from another guys page on here years ago. Group buy is the way to go, or it used to be. My build thread has the info and the guys handle/name on here for the group buy. If I did it again I'd go 4.5" but I wasn't sure they would fit easily! Good luck choosing
  16. I actually have a push button that I have wired in and when I want to go in reverse I just hold that button. When I let go of the button after I shift into reverse the 12v is cutoff from the solenoid. And you are correct, it's very hard to shift into reverse overcoming the detent spring. It's a pain sometimes but hey it works and it was cheap! Like $10.
  17. Thanks for the complements and yes it is a blast to drive! I hadn't realized how much I missed driving this thing but after a 7 month hiatus for the transmission rebuild and turbo add on it was well worth all of it. Actually drive it to work yesterday for the first time since late October 2015. I wish I had time to but I'm in a wedding this weekend and won't be able to on Saturday. I missed the last cars and coffee in Knoxville due to tuning issues but will try to be at the next one. PM me and we can meet up somewhere soon and I can take you for a ride once I get this tune figured o
  18. I've not posted in a while but I'm in the tuning phase currently. Had some small tweaks to figure out before it would react to my changes but now that I've got that glitch out of the way all I can say is WOW! I've never ridden in a 500-600 hp tin can before but this thing screams! Had a 10 lb spring in and boost creep has me a few pounds higher so I'm going to lower the spring to 6 lbs and hopefully keep it at or under 10 lbs of boost. It literally blows the tires off of it, granted I'm only running 225/50/16's. I'm just amazed at the power. My Duramax is no longer the fastest vehicle
  19. I recommend getting the engine/trans first and running it in the z to get a feel for stock LS power and fix all rust issues. Then figure out what turbo or super or even combo charging setup will fit with or without the hood installed and go from their. This way it'll be running faster and you won't lose interest on the project if funds come up short sometimes because life happens. Honestly twin turbo's on an LS will net your power goal easier than compounding boost and will be cheaper. Even a large single will do that number. I drove mine for 11k miles (2 years) before boosting it this winter.
  20. trim.81C0D869-338B-4157-A63E-52A095A19E70.MOV SHE'S ALIVE!!! Started up smooth and is running super rich but better than lean. Time to start tuning and then we'll go fast! This video has a 90 degree dump and no muffler. Not quite as loud as I figured it would be but I didn't rev it up any.
  21. Well, I've got it all put back together now. I pulled the file from the computer to tune it so fire up should be this week!!! I can't wait! I still have to add some brackets for the intercooler, padding for a little spacer between some things and clean up my wiring mess but it's coming along since early November. I have rebuilt the transmission and added a turbo. Sounds simple but with life it just takes more time than you plan for. Hoping to have a startup video soon! It has a dump exhaust until I get more shielding gas for the welder but I have all the bends and v-bands already. I w
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