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Cold Air Intake set ups


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What are you all using for cold air set ups?  My L76 has a GM Delco drive by wire throttle body with a 4" opening. I have collected 3 4" 90 degree elbows and some alumized 4" tubing. I noticed the mass air sensor is a 4" by 3 5/8" housing so I will have to neck it down in one area. Are you guys cutting out a larger hole in the radiator support and running the air cleaner out and turning 90 degree's or leaving the "cone" air cleaner in the engine bay. Also have you noticed any difference in the shorter cones vs longer ones, do the short ones choke the motor.

 

My set up is cam and long tubes with  150 wet shot for now.

 

I have several idea's but thought I would ask the folks who have been there and done that first before going crazy/overboard. 

 

Thanks

Mike

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I would agree with Domzs approach. Apart from the money factor, I read the best solution is to keep the stock airbox with a K&N filter: 1. its mounted outside the engine compartment for colder air, 2. the airbox shape and fitment helps air to pass through the radiator and no over. The restriction of the stock airbox is on the intake side prior to the filter element...to overcome this drill a few quarter size holes (5, or 6) on the box. The elbow and tubing on my 280zx is stock 3 inches so that is not where the restriction on flow is.

 

But I guess it also depends on the use of the car and where you want the HP/torque to peak. For autocross you may find best to have peak power at lower rpms, and for that I found it ideal to fit the filter as close to the TBs/plenum, and thus eliminating any tubing. The further I moved the filter away the engine peaked at higher rpms (it moved my powerband about 500-600 rpms up).

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With a 4" intake, its not going to care how many elbows there are. Put it out of the engine bay, and forget about it. Here is what I did, and I have the same basic parts you do. I just wrapped my MAF with tape until it met the 4" diameter, so i could use the coupler.

 

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I used a ~4" length of " tubing to join the coupler and the filter.

 

My IAT's are 5-7* above ambient, ALL the time. Thats much better than most stock location setups, on any platform.

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Thanks for the input, idea's and pictures. I looked at the JTR kit/accessories, they have everything I have already but would have made it cheaper and easier with one stop shopping...live and learn I guess.

 

Mike

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Thanks for the input, idea's and pictures. I looked at the JTR kit/accessories, they have everything I have already but would have made it cheaper and easier with one stop shopping...live and learn I guess.

 

Mike

 

Except its all rubber connectors that get nasty way fast.  I love my silicone. and I'm not just talking connectors  ( . Y . )  ....... ok maybe i am.

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Has anyone tried tilting the radiator back/down and snaking an intake straight over the radiator with something like the corvette K&N intake?

Kind of, yes, but the car is not complete so I cannot comment on performance.  This required fabrication and a custom radiator.

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Kind of, yes, but the car is not complete so I cannot comment on performance.  This required fabrication and a custom radiator.

 

Hi Craig. Actually your pictures you emailed me is what caused me to think of trying this. I'm thinking I might be able to do the same without having to modify the rad support and instead going under it by getting a shorter radiator and/or tilting the radiator back. Thoughts? I'm not there yet in my build but I'm hoping to be there soon.

 

Jeff

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Sorry for my mental lethargy.  I forgot about our previous interactions on this topic.

 

I suppose the answer to your question is, it depends.  I suspect you can make the radiator short enough and tilt the radiator but will it retain the necessary cooling attributes ?  What I can do is take my shortened radiator and see how it would have to be positioned to allow a C5/C6 Corvette intake to pass.  I believe, without evidence, that your best bet will be tilting the radiator forward as the TB is about even with the core support.  Tilting the radiator back will cause more interference than less.  The attached picture may help support my point.

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Has anyone tried tilting the radiator back/down and snaking an intake straight over the radiator with something like the corvette K&N intake? I'm no where near that in my build but I do plan to try this. I'm not too crazy about having three 90 degree bends in my intake.

 

Why?  Are you building a motor that has squeezed out every last bit of horsepower that 3 4-in. diameter elbows will make a difference?  Are you building a race-purpose car where you've shaved weight every where you could so you are now focusing on the minutia?  Really, get a grip.

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You could definitely do that. I just saw an autocross z car where the owner tilted back the radiator in an effort to reduce his yaw moment. The same guy gas peeled off enough weight to get the weight down to under 2000# in a 76-280z the details do build up.

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I had a radiator made that was 50mm lower. I then made a cold air intake to fit over the top with a standard rectangular filter facing downwards and also an alternative shape which would sit behind the radiator. I'm undecided which I will use.

 

Check the Aussie eBay for OTR intakes - they are a very popular aftermarket item down here for LSx powered cars.

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