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proportioning valve question


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hi everyone, first sorry for my english, im from québec so i'll try my best.

 

I have toyota 4 piston in the front with 280zx rear,stock booster and master. I do a restoration on my z and notice that the proportionning valve was blocked (due to all these years sitting in junkyard) . i'm not able to make it repare in my town and its very hard out here get a another one so my question is what can i do to solve my problem and have a good working brake balance?

 

i want to keep nissan fitting on the brake lines cause i haved big problems flaring stainless lines to put ssbc proportionning valve and fitting..i was thinking putting a pv from a 240sx or z32 ..

Is that someone has already made this and does it works? or can i keep the oem 240z pv with my setup? help me cause i have a jtr sbc swap in the front to stop..

 

 

give me your opinions and ideas please...

 

and yes i know that i am a newbie...i search but find nothing

 

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Since you have a 240Z it should be easier, but what you can do is go here: http://949racing.com/wilwood-brake-prop-valve.aspx as they sell a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve with NPT threads along with NPT to Inverted Flare 10x1 fittings. This way you can remove the stock proportioning valve, and then just use the adapters to connect the original lines right to the Wilwood. This is what I did. Just make sure you add in the adapters for a Miata. The Miata uses the same standard inverted flare and metric size fittings as our Z.

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I don't believe you will ever get "good" bias out of that setup. Maybe if you put more aggressive pads in the back. I had the same setup, Toyota in the front and early 280ZX rear disk, and I couldn't get it even close no matter what I did with the prop valve.

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Unfortunately I was already in the process of the 240sx rear swap when I started coming across people saying about not such a good brake bias with the Toyota/SX setup. Although it seems to vary. I've seen some people claim too much from the rears, others get none. Also one thing that seems to be a difference is at least in my situation I'll be running at least hps pads in the rear which should be an improvement over stock. As for the fronts I'm running the smaller non-vented 12+8 calipers. I've seen it mentioned that bias might be a little better with those do to the smaller size and the 2 smaller pistons vs. the bigger S12W calipers. I'm taking my time to make sure everything is bled very thoroughly. Maybe getting a little more off topic, but something I've been wanting to post about and discuss is the mention of the check valve that gets used in the Master for the rear drums. I've been curious if you were to run that check valve only on the rears with calipers. Would you be able to set up the rears to almost grab faster, maybe not changing the bias so much, but allowing the rears to begin to slow slightly before the fronts take over? It might be kind of a band-aid fix, but it's something that interests me. I believe I've seen there are VWs that are set to be slightly more rear biased or to at least engage rears first to help prevent nose dive on heavy breaking and give more of a nicer braking experience.

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