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DuoWing

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Everything posted by DuoWing

  1. Was the temp sensor replaced by you or the previous owner? Also was it the temperature sensor or the temperature sender for the temp gauge itself? This sounds really similar to the temp sensor being bad. Also I'm not sure if the 280z did it, but I know with the ZX up over a certain speed or it might be RPM the car goes into open loop where it reverts to just using the ecu programmed fuel maps and doesn't really use the sensors. Years ago my turbo ZX was running awful, but if I really got on it or on the freeway when you're cruising at over 65 (3-speed auto)/higher RPMs I'd suddenly notice the
  2. This thread sounds exactly like what I need. Especially considering you can even buy one of these civic driers for about $10. The only concern I have is, would this be too small of an amount for a surge tank, or it really shouldn't matter?
  3. I'm considering the Phantom 200. I like the placement, but how do you ensure that the pump stays in the fuel in that location, or is it adjustable in such a way that the filter and pump can be vertical even when the bracket is horizontal? Nevermind, I didn't realize this was a later 280Z tank. I've never seen one, and didn't realize the sender is actually on top.
  4. So I ordered the T3 Rear Lower Control Arms to put on my 280z forever project. Anyway I got them installed loosely, and I didn't tighten down the bolt and nut because the car is currently not going anywhere, but I see how I have a lot of space between the rod ends and the mounting point at the bottom of the strut. Is there an additional bushing that goes here, or do I just install the washers/shims in this space? If I'm installing the shims, does anyone have the order I should put the shims to end up with stock alignment?
  5. I've been searching around trying to determine what to use for my front suspension. I was thinking of going the stock style T3 control arm and t/c rod, but this set does come out a bit cheaper. I would like to track my car a little at some point, but primarily would just be street driving. Would there be any reason to go for the stock style ones over the gtx2 set?
  6. This is something I'd definitely be interested in. So with this you would just need the brackets, the calipers, and to re-drill/bore out the rotors?
  7. I'm looking to do the conversion to the Z31 Turbo CVs and I wanted to see if anyone has a set of the companion flanges and CVs for sale. Let me know. PM or e-mail: duowing@gmail.com Thanks.
  8. Yeah, at first I was looking at it from a savings stand point. Then I put more attention to it and realized I wouldn't be saving that much overall. I was looking at this vs. say the billet stub axles and the wolf creek cv kit. So they'd come close in price, but almost be better to just go this route as so many more advantages in the end.
  9. I've been searching around and trying to find some information. I tried e-mailing T3, but perhapsperhaps I wasn't saying what I wanted to properly. Would it be possible to take portions of the kit and do essentially the CV, later wheel bearing, hub, and brake conversion while maintaining the original long nose R200? From what I understand is that as long as you swap a LSD intended for an open diff 240sx you end up with the same spline count as the S30. So I would assume you could also grab those axles. I guess you'd still be looking at a pricey conversion, but you'd be able to maintain t
  10. As asked is your pump mounted in the stock location? These pumps almost need to be mounted low enough to be gravity fed by the tank otherwise they will sooner or later start complaining. Do you have a filter between tank and pump? This can cause the pump to complain. One big thing that I've found through JeffP's posts and my own experiences is that using the stock wiring and stock relay is not advisable. Any aftermarket pump needs to be pretty much upgraded to bigger wiring. Using the stock wiring I was experiencing a very hot relay and a 1v drop from relay to pump once warm. Part of what I di
  11. I'm still looking for one of these if anyone happens to have one for sale
  12. I came across this thread and I figured instead of start another, I'll throw in that I'm looking for one of these as well. I'm looking for second/middle pinion flange in the above pic to mate the diff to the driveshaft in my 76'
  13. I'm looking for the throttle body off a L28ET. If anyone happens to have one up for sale let me know. I'm located near Cleveland, OH. E-mail: duowing@gmail.com or PM me. Thanks!
  14. Quick question I figured I would ask. I bought a 37/64 drill bit and drilled out my cold start injector hole so I could tap it for the intake air temp sensor for my MegaSquirt setup. Well I got all that done, but I see there's not really a whole lot of actual thread area for the sensor to grab. Anyway I can thread my sensor, and it doesn't seem to get tight until it's pretty much all the way in. I took a little 3/8 npt plug and although I didn't go all the way with it, it seemed like if I wanted to I could just keep on threading it all the way through til it fell out. It never felt like it got
  15. I came across this thread through some searches and there's some good motivation for my Megasquirt build in here! Anyway I had a quick question about your injectors and manifold, I see you bored the injector holes out for the EV1 injectors. I've been planning on using the 440cc Bosch Green injectors which from what I can tell look almost identical, just a different color. Anyway, are you still using the nylon spacer that sits between the O-ring and the end of the injector? A quick test fit seemed to show that the injectors would fit if I removed that spacer similar to what I had to do with the
  16. The only way I'd say go the stock harness route is if you can get it all for really cheap and just need the motor to run. Otherwise I recommend against it. It can be made to run decently, but I've struggled so much with rewiring and fixing things just to get it to run decently.
  17. Hey guys I recently swapped in my 14mm pallnet rail and my brown top SVO injectors. I resized the injectors in NIstune and the car seems to run and idle decently, but it does seem to be rich so I'll have to play around with the settings, but I was wondering if anyone happens to know the latency at 14v for these injectors? I've been searching all over and I haven't been able to find that particular information. I know a few people run/have run these so maybe anyone has some info?
  18. Hmm I guess I read wrong, for some reason I was under the impression that if you were seeing pressure in the tank it was correct. My old 280zx always had that pressure release whenever I'd go pull the cap off at the gas station. I also could be misunderstanding, but it sounded like with what Tony wrote above that there should be the pressure on the tank to help with the pump and cavitation, but maybe with just an open vent line where it should have been hooked to the canister I'm possibly issues? Maybe I need to see if I still have the charcoal canister and throw that in and try that? The cani
  19. This is an interesting topic and maybe this is the reason so many of us have the loud pump issues? I live in Cleveland and we get our share of hot days every once in a while, but not often are we above 85-90. I've tried so many things to get the pump to stop being loud. Swapped my walbro for a bosch 044, mounted it horizontal, then mounted it lower in relation to tank outlet. Then I found the relay getting hot, swapped that with one of those big 70amp fan relays and ran a dedicated 10 gauge wire from maxifuses in engine bay to relay then directly back to pump. 10 gauge ground from pump to the
  20. I found this thread when I was running into the same problem. I've never had much luck with the sealants. Perhaps it's just me. On my original pallnet rail I just used JB Weld as recommended, but later on regretted it because now I can't change the fittings. When installing the barb fittings onto my old professional products fpr with female npt threads I tried sealants that were rated for gasoline and could not get them to seal. Finally I just used the tape, tightened it, and voila it sealed first try. I assembled my new 14mm o-ring rail with permatex thread sealant with ptfe and it seemed to
  21. Reading through this thread makes me think of an issue I encountered the other day. I was wiring up my autometer tach to my 280Z and I ran the white wires for the backlighting to the factory pin for the green/white and a separate ground. I put everything in and it doesn't work. I look at the FSM and the harness I had and the green/white wire was in a different location in real life vs. the diagram. So either someone had messed with it or it's some kind of discrepancy. As for the ranger pump shutoff switch it's funny that was mentioned because just the other day I got in my friend's Mazda Rang.
  22. 84-87 Turbo ECUs will not require will resistor packs. The 88-89 ECUs will require inline resistors. The 86-89 ECUs all use the smaller Titania resistance based O2 sensor, but for the most part any of the ECUs will run fine without the O2 sensor connected.
  23. I'm about to install an autometer electric speedo into my 76' to match my tach and I had a quick question on the wiring. I have the early style 5-speed, so I've already cut a flat into the 240sx speed sensor and installed it. I see that the instructions show to ground one wire and use the other for the speedometer's signal. Now I'm not sure if it matters which one I use? I'd assume the yellow/black would be the one I ground out? Also I was thinking that I could then run the wire to my z31 ecu which would then also take care of the speed code and also finally allow the ecu to operate the maf bu
  24. Well as far as I can tell I think my Tach may have just bit the dust. It doesn't respond at any RPM. I've obtained some new weird running issues and wired back to original igniter and coil and still had no tach. I got a new autometer sportcomp tach to match my boost gauge, so I guess time to take that apart and put it in. There were times in the past where I would be driving and the tach needle would just completely dip down to 0 and then jump back up with no noticeable hesitation in driving, so maybe it was its time.
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