Domzs Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 The TPS is adjustable by loosen up the mounting bolts and then turn the unit , DO NOT take it apart . Air regulator is part of your cold start system and it's not cheap . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 OK so as one of the tests on the FSM is while the car is running get players and clamp the vac hose going to and from the air regulator and pinch it closed if idle goes down and stumbles then its working. I did it and nothing happened what so ever so could this be the reason of all my problems ? Well at least some of them ? Could the air regulator actually cause it to run the way it is ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Did you test the air regulator with cold or hot engine ? It's for cold start ( acts like a choke on carb car ) . It opens when cold and closes when hot . it works with the cold start injector during cold start up . My advice to you is to get your intake boot first then recheck . Any kind of air/vac leak will give you a false reading/testing . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 I fixed the air boot by using the stock one that goes from the AFM to the air cleaner and its a good seal and I tested it when it was cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Are they the same , has all the fittings ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 That won't work . Down stream boot has a fiiting for the air regulator . Where does the air regulator get air ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 It doesn't have any fittings the original on has one nipple on it for the breather on the valve cover that's it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Does the air regulator hose T to breather hose ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 The air regulator is located on top of the intake manifold and has one line that comes out of a nipple on the throttle body and runs to the air regulator and from there runs back into the throttle body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Ok . My diag. shows the air inlet hose Ts to PCV breather hose . You can remove the air inlet hose at regulator valve and start the motor ( cold state ) , make sure you cap off the hose , then check to see if it has any suction . As engine warmed up , the valve should close ( no suction ) . Or , if you can look inside the valve , you can manually supply power and ground to it and watch the valve closes . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 OK I so I did a test of it and it and I disconnected the hose to the air reg (opposite side of the sensor sensor plug) and at idle with the line off without being plugged it ran better ( smoother less rich ect.) But once I put my thumb over the reg it ran how it did before and there was suction I tried looking inside of it but all I saw was black even with a flashlight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domzs Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Can't remember which side the valve is . Suction indicates open . Did you let the engine warm up to see if the valve closes ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 The AAR does not affect the air-fuel ratio. It just lets air past the throttle blade, but the air still passes through the AFM. If you take the hose off of the AAR you're creating a large vacuum leak, letting unmetered (Air Flow Metered) air in to the manifold, leaning out the mixture. Your rich problem isn't caused by the AAR. You're searching where the light is, when your problem is in the dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbreak_2000 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 rule out any issues with the air regulator or aux cold start injector by just unplugging them and then see how the motor runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palmer765s Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 well guys I just went up to my buddies at a local shop and bullshitted around for a bit and finaly decided im going Mega Squirt just to completely ditch this crappy EFI system and have things to go smoothly and also I plan on going turbo in the future so it makes more sense to me. have been throwing around this decision in my head for a while now and all this just secured it and the deal im getting to have it made and installed (MS1 build your own board) I cant pass it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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