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Clutch disengagement problem (SOLVED!)


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Here's an odd possibility, if you assume the hydraulics are right - the bearing wasn't seated fully in the throwout collar.  After using it a few times it dropped down and now it's too short. 

 

Just another thing to think about.  I would be surpried though if that was the problem.

 

Interesting thoughts on the WOT test he did, but I've always thought that once a clutch starts slipping it keeps slipping unless there's more pressure put on the disc.  Where does the change in pressure come from to cause it to grab again?

 

Anyway, have fun.  You might measure the slave cylinder travel first and compare it to what it should be before tearing things apart.  If it's got full travel, changing the MC won't help.  The number is out there somewhere.

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Here's an odd possibility, if you assume the hydraulics are right - the bearing wasn't seated fully in the throwout collar.  After using it a few times it dropped down and now it's too short. 

 

Just another thing to think about.  I would be surpried though if that was the problem.

 

Interesting thoughts on the WOT test he did, but I've always thought that once a clutch starts slipping it keeps slipping unless there's more pressure put on the disc.  Where does the change in pressure come from to cause it to grab again?

 

Anyway, have fun.  You might measure the slave cylinder travel first and compare it to what it should be before tearing things apart.  If it's got full travel, changing the MC won't help.  The number is out there somewhere.

 

The TO bearing could shift I suppose. However, the hydraulics should take up the free play in response so it should only cause a momentariy change in pedal feel or clutch action.

 

A healty clutch should have enough holding power to reengage without lifting the throttle, at least that has been my experience.

 

 

PROBLEM SOLVED!

 

I bought an M8x1.25mm coupler and a threaded rod (cut the rod down to one inch), and now I have more throw.

 

Clutch disengages and engages PERFECTLY and smooth.

 

Where did you put the coupler and rod?

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The TO bearing could shift I suppose. However, the hydraulics should take up the free play in response so it should only cause a momentariy change in pedal feel or clutch action.

 

A healty clutch should have enough holding power to reengage without lifting the throttle, at least that has been my experience.

 

 

 

Where did you put the coupler and rod?

 

 

 

I threaded it onto the existing push rod

 

Edited by Milenko2121
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