docaam Posted July 15, 2013 Author Share Posted July 15, 2013 Got the engine cleaned up bought some Duplicolor cans for final finish, Used a gray colour on engine block The block was properly cleaned inside out then sprayed all areas, some buff is there which will be cleaned up and also paint on some bolts but just wanted a cleaner look. Picture were taken from a cell phone so quality looks bad but in person looks really clean and with red covers would look sick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted July 21, 2013 Author Share Posted July 21, 2013 (edited) Finally dropped the engine in and start putting things back together, intake clearance is not that good touching the hood a bit will send middle and lower intake manifold part for some shaving Edited July 21, 2013 by docaam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 (edited) Hey Looking good, you're really getting there... Wow, yeah that intake does stick up quite a bit. I wonder if the lower intake is swapable with the VQ35. if not, they could cut out a center section and drop out about 20mm. then weld it back together, poilsh and it may fit then. Remember you have to hood hump right there so it may not be an issue. it's really interresting the similarities between the VQ30 and the VQ 35, your VQ30 has webbing on the side of the block, the VQ35 has solid walls. What really looks like an issue is that AC pump. it's really looking like it's in the way of the Steering shaft. I haven't figured a way around it myself yet, though I'm thinking some 4mm steel could maybe move it up. That or another idea one of the guys had was to get the AC compressor out of a small car like a Geo metro or something that may fit up near where the PB pump originally was. Either way we're making brackets, but the AC pump doen't have to be stock to the engine. A smaller pump will take more time to cool down the car, but if that's what it takes to make it fit. I dunno. I'm going to try to move the AC pump up and run the steering below it. it's a tight fit. We may have to use additional U joints and rotate the rack. Another idea is to swap the rack mounts 180 degrees and mount the rack lower. Im not sure if that'll affect the steering geometry. Worst case we can swap in the Electric AC from a toyota Prius. it's not even mounted on the engine. Edited July 22, 2013 by Pharaohabq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Hey Looking good, you're really getting there... Wow, yeah that intake does stick up quite a bit. I wonder if the lower intake is swapable with the VQ35. if not, they could cut out a center section and drop out about 20mm. then weld it back together, poilsh and it may fit then. Remember you have to hood hump right there so it may not be an issue. it's really interresting the similarities between the VQ30 and the VQ 35, your VQ30 has webbing on the side of the block, the VQ35 has solid walls. What really looks like an issue is that AC pump. it's really looking like it's in the way of the Steering shaft. I haven't figured a way around it myself yet, though I'm thinking some 4mm steel could maybe move it up. That or another idea one of the guys had was to get the AC compressor out of a small car like a Geo metro or something that may fit up near where the PB pump originally was. Either way we're making brackets, but the AC pump doen't have to be stock to the engine. A smaller pump will take more time to cool down the car, but if that's what it takes to make it fit. I dunno. I'm going to try to move the AC pump up and run the steering below it. it's a tight fit. We may have to use additional U joints and rotate the rack. Another idea is to swap the rack mounts 180 degrees and mount the rack lower. Im not sure if that'll affect the steering geometry. Worst case we can swap in the Electric AC from a toyota Prius. it's not even mounted on the engine. I shaved the middle and lower intake around 20mm combined and now clearance is good its just touching the hood lock part which is more of the bulge in the hood can be handled easily, or maybe will keep hood an inch open JDM style hahahal. The part which was touching the hood was the extreme most corner parts towards the firewall rest intake was not that bad I think I managed to work a way around it . Steering rod is done with some U joints, how it will perform no idea as engine is not running but so far looks good. there is an inch clearance from the AC compressor now. Moving AC compressor is always an option but get a bit difficult on aluminium blocks Coming back to sterring rack and shaft added some smaller U joints and removed the stock coupler near firewall, angle seems to be kind of steep around 100-110 deg but as of now turning it right. We managed to add a bearing through which the rod goes next to the engine and its mounted in the chassis rail from bottom and a bracket on the side so avoiding any movement of rod in any direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Almost done engine and gear part and also he steering rack, just finalzing all things then to install radiator and intercooler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Wow that's looking pretty sweet. Your steering shaft is tight, but it clears! I'm really impressed with that. That AC pump reallly didn't have any where to go, the Waterlines right above it would have stopped you from moving it up more than maybe 20 mm. What are those lines that the red hose is fit on near the turbo? They look like fuel lines, but I thought those came up from the right side. It will be fun clearing everything away from that Turbo. The brake lines will have to be rerouted. Any wiring on that side would need to be moved. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to make a heat shield to cover the turbo and protect the bottom of the firewall. The engine is really looking good in there. It really makes me want to get back on my VQ project. What radiator are you going to use with it? I'd heard the mishimoto rads are pretty good, you can get them with the right hand upper barb so you won't have to use a curved hose. I've seen people mod the stock radiator to move the barb, but I'm not sure that's worth it. You pulled out the stock hood latch. We could probably shave down the stock latch by 40mm or 60mm, perhaps making a billet "L" bracket out of 8mm aluminium? We'd just need to fit the stock mechanism in the stock location. Removing the lower section of the stock mount, but keeping the strength to handle shutting the hood. maybe that's a later project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 Wow that's looking pretty sweet. Your steering shaft is tight, but it clears! I'm really impressed with that. That AC pump reallly didn't have any where to go, the Waterlines right above it would have stopped you from moving it up more than maybe 20 mm. What are those lines that the red hose is fit on near the turbo? They look like fuel lines, but I thought those came up from the right side. It will be fun clearing everything away from that Turbo. The brake lines will have to be rerouted. Any wiring on that side would need to be moved. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to make a heat shield to cover the turbo and protect the bottom of the firewall. The engine is really looking good in there. It really makes me want to get back on my VQ project. What radiator are you going to use with it? I'd heard the mishimoto rads are pretty good, you can get them with the right hand upper barb so you won't have to use a curved hose. I've seen people mod the stock radiator to move the barb, but I'm not sure that's worth it. You pulled out the stock hood latch. We could probably shave down the stock latch by 40mm or 60mm, perhaps making a billet "L" bracket out of 8mm aluminium? We'd just need to fit the stock mechanism in the stock location. Removing the lower section of the stock mount, but keeping the strength to handle shutting the hood. maybe that's a later project. Moving the compressor is a bigger job so first will try this then see if anything else is needed Those red pipes are just going in intake pipe from manifold. Radiator I went with Griffith 19 x24 double pass one pics are there in previous page. Both inlet and outlet are on right side so would need to move one to driver side. Yeah pulled out the stock hood latch will use hood locks on the sides, there isint big issue with these hoods to open up while driving so just locking thing should be ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Im almost reaching there, weather isint great to go and stay at the shops and so is the place small roadside places. Last week updates Got the flexalite fan mounted on the griffin radiator with custom mounts In the car, closed the stock radiator holes will make new ones from the sides for flush fan fitment Intercooler, AC condensor and fan Intercooler needed custom pipes welded to come in the engine bay because of odd stock holes All radiator, concdoesor and interocooler mounted Custom intake and IC piping welded and polished Yesterday went there again and took the below update Guy did a decent job on the intercooler pipes and mounting brackets, some pipes got some scratches he will get those polished those again. Made an aluminium radiator cooling plate seems a bit big but will make changes later if needed, good thing is looks a bit cleaner as the whole space is closed from front grill to the radiator, can polish or powder coat it or maybe wrapped in CF Do you guys suggest to make some holes or slits in it as was worried if air will pull it up while driving Piping seems to be good, MAF sensor is near the intake pipe long with BOV, only thing which im not that feeling is the pipe for ar filter which goes across the other side but there was no space on the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp975 Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 Hi Docaam, Just wondering if your VQ30det is a Neo? It looks like it to me, anyway I am back to working on mine and hooking everything back up to the engine but it looks like there are three fuel lines coming from the engine, does that sound the same as yours? I am wondering how I can work out why there are three and what each one is for? Did you work this kind of problem out? Cheers Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 (edited) Hi Docaam, Just wondering if your VQ30det is a Neo? It looks like it to me, anyway I am back to working on mine and hooking everything back up to the engine but it looks like there are three fuel lines coming from the engine, does that sound the same as yours? I am wondering how I can work out why there are three and what each one is for? Did you work this kind of problem out? Cheers Rob Hey Rob was away for a small vacation but will try to check that info for you. Dropped the car earlier around two weeks back for wiring job as lots of body wires were there from old engine and stock ones wanted to clean up everything. for your query will check today. Also sent the dashboard to get it wrapped in leather and alcantara along with the side boards as cracks were appearing again because of the heat here. Transmission mount is blocking the down pipe might need to be altered again once car is done, this gearbox is really big for the tunnel Dowpipe flange custom made because of space Few pics of mounts and tie rod ends custom done to move the steering rack Removed the dashboard and its a wiring chaos back there But now after hooking up everything car is not starting seems like NATS issue, havent gone to the shop and check it not sure what to do for NATS as I thought VQ30DET comes without NATS earlier ones and have no idea how to resolve it without going for stand alone as thats the last thing I want to do, maybe will check with UPREV people as on VQ35DE/37 you can remove NATS with uprev. All I have is the harness and ecu and I doubt I can find a gloria or CIMA here to get other parts required? Any suggestions Edited October 6, 2013 by docaam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp975 Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Hi Docaam, You are ahead of me as far as starting the motor, we started mine in the half-cut many years ago and I am working on getting mine close to starting again before converting the wiring. It started but wouldn't rev high we thought because it did not have a air flow meter when in the half cut. Is yours starting in what they call limp mode? Or not starting at all? Are you running a vapor canister?I didn't get one with my half cut. Is NATS to do with accelerator pedal issues like in a vq35de like in a 350Z? If so I didn't think our motors had that issue. It is a real shame that the forum VQ30det.com.au closed down as there were many threads about swapping these motors. Your dash sounds like it will be fantastic! If you don't have any luck with the non starting I can try to get into contact with a person with a vq30det in a 910 Bluebird here in Australia. I have attached a photo of my fuel lines, they are the three in a triple clip on the left side of the photo. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 Hi Docaam, You are ahead of me as far as starting the motor, we started mine in the half-cut many years ago and I am working on getting mine close to starting again before converting the wiring. It started but wouldn't rev high we thought because it did not have a air flow meter when in the half cut. Is yours starting in what they call limp mode? Or not starting at all? Are you running a vapor canister?I didn't get one with my half cut. Is NATS to do with accelerator pedal issues like in a vq35de like in a 350Z? If so I didn't think our motors had that issue. It is a real shame that the forum VQ30det.com.au closed down as there were many threads about swapping these motors. Your dash sounds like it will be fantastic! If you don't have any luck with the non starting I can try to get into contact with a person with a vq30det in a 910 Bluebird here in Australia. I have attached a photo of my fuel lines, they are the three in a triple clip on the left side of the photo. Rob Rob, when trying to start fuel is coming in the injectors but there is no spark coming, so can say not starting at all. I doubt its because of accelerator pedal as we have cable driven throttles not like drive by wire in VQ35DE, still not an expert there so dont know. One guy said I can try getting an ECU, immobilizer and key from some 2002-2004 maxima and try that. I will appreciate if you can contact the person with 910 bluebird (was that a yellow one?) For the picture I will check once I goto see the car today or tomorrow as its in another city. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp975 Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Docaam, The 910 Bluebird was a lightgreen metalic wagon, they didn't do the swap but bought it from the guy who did the swap. I will try to find them and make contact, I will let you know how I get on. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 Docaam, It's probably not a NATS issue. I don't think you car had that. You'll need to find an FSM for the donor car to make sure. But you should be able to call the local Nissan dealer to ask about it. Either way you're probably going to need the FSM to find the test points to see what it's doing. You may be able to get a hold of a Consult II or a Consult III to see if the ECU will identify the fault. Towing it to the Nissan dealer may be needed. I know I will have to do that with my HR, so that Nissan can reprogram my BCU to work with my Key and ECU to make my NATS happy. A Consult II should be able to identify the fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted October 16, 2013 Author Share Posted October 16, 2013 (edited) Nissan isint that much friendly here and their consult only reads GCC spec cars I had a USA specs 370z and tried it couldn't read it Anyways I ordered the same ECU which I was running on previous rb25 adaptronic more like haltech platinum pro but cheaper and now getting it installed then check and if all good will tune it Edited October 16, 2013 by docaam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp975 Posted October 16, 2013 Share Posted October 16, 2013 (edited) Hi Docaam, I sent an email to the person with the Bluebird but have had no reply and looking at it their's is an earlier VQ30det not a neo. I have a FSM for the HY34 VQ30det neo, but it is only in Japanese. I think that the consult connection is in the wiring under the dash on original car. Rob Edited October 16, 2013 by rp975 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 You may be able to get a consult interface through Ebay. I know they have some, and it'll run on a Pc, but I don't know too much about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Thanks Rob But honestly it's been 4 months in the swap so will just go with the standalone lets see how it goes. It's pretty difficult here to arrange these consult and other things. At times I'm regretting because of the frustration that should have gone with the rb26/30 NA which was the original plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp975 Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Hi Docaam, You know I have thought the same thing about mine at times, but part of the game is over coming problems, you have overcome so many issues so far and only a few more to go so hang in there. I think once you do have it running you will be very happy with the performance and you will probably be the first one to complete this swap into an S30! Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docaam Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 Hi Docaam, You know I have thought the same thing about mine at times, but part of the game is over coming problems, you have overcome so many issues so far and only a few more to go so hang in there. I think once you do have it running you will be very happy with the performance and you will probably be the first one to complete this swap into an S30! Rob Thanks for the kind words man much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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