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75 280z Cooling and Engine Questions


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So I just recently replaced both Radiator hose and the thermostat because I figured it should be done since the car has about 193000 miles on it. Before I did it the car after being warmed up the sensor would read it being a little bit over the middle. So after the flush and replacement it still was reading out the same. So I drove it around for a hour today its about 85-90 degrees out today the the Sensor was moving up and down when I was going about 25-30 it and at Idle it would get pretty close to 250 or just nearly on it. But when I was going faster and getting some air flow going it would drop down towards the middle. 

 

I'm letting it cool down and then I'm going to check the Radiator Temp. after it warms up again and see if it reads about 180 I guess is the area you want to be in. Also I another thing on my list to do is a valve adjustment which might help the cooling problem as well.

 

 

Second thing is towards the end of my ride if I were to brake hard or just idle the car would just shut off. I would have to start it back up and it would Idle pretty rough or just die unless I kept my foot on the gas peddle a bit to keep it Reved. I've cleaned the AFM and Throttle Body and also put on new OEM Filter to AFM and AFM to TB boots on.  Any idea why this would be doing this? I adjusted the idle again and it idles at about 850rpms after it warms up..

 

Thanks to whoever reply's and I'll update on the Temp read out 

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Cooling issue could be due to clogged motor internals. When I've rebuilt mine, I use high pressure washer, a ton of gunk came out from the engine.

It could also be a clogged or partially clogged radiator.

 

For Idle issue when it is warm, not sure how I can help. Just make sure you're not getting vapor lock with too hot fuel line.

Edited by Lazeum
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Could easily be a bunk thermostat, I've had several in my life. At idle the coolant goes through a little hole, but when its actually driving, it can't flow fast enough since the wax hasn't opened. Take it out and throw it in a pot of boiling water to make sure it opens.

 

The crappy running is probably because your car was overheating. If it has a temp sensor in the head then when it was running hot then it was sending a bad signal to the ecu

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Ya if its a bad Temp Sensor I'm just gonna get the Japanese OEM one Courtesy Nissan Sells. I did the Temp check and the Needle was in the middle and the Thermometer was reading 181 at Idle

 

BluDestiny are you part of the CF Z club that meets up in Taveras? I'm looking for local Z people to meet up with and get advice and maybe some help on doing the Valve Adjustment and timing chain =) 

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Ya I've spoken with him a couple times.. Speaking of the cooling fluid getting to the Engine I think it is. See I couldn't get the Water Drain plug off the block so what I did was just drain and fill the Radiator ran the car and rinsed and repeat till it wasnt green anymore. So I know the clean water was getting through to the engine and pushing the old coolant out I would guess.. Going to go for a drive right now and see if there's any difference since its cooler

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So nighttime driving seemed to go pretty well drove the it for about 20 minutes and got it on I-4 up to 80 and no flux in the Temp Gauge.. Maybe I got a air bubble out when I tested the Radiator Temp... anyways one finally test during the day to see if it Fluxes bad like it did yesterday.

 

Thanks for the input from everyone! 

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So ran it again during the day and it did run a bit warmer...

 

Also I had the car turned off and when I went to turn it back on it started idling around 500Rpms and died... Think I'm gonna try to get this Valve Adjustment going is there pretty good DIY post on here? I saw the one on Atlantic z forum 

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