Jump to content
HybridZ

No spark, no injector pulse, z31 ecu/maf turbo'd 78z


Recommended Posts

I had it running, after cleaning up some wiring I stopped getting spark. At first I just ran to the junkyard and grabbed some other power transistors (PWR2, of course), and picked up the solid state coil from a z31. Mounted it, tested both parts and they work. I'm getting the fuel pump to turn on, and the 6 second prime is working too. Error codes are the standard 23, 24, and 31. According to the FSM, they're supposed to say that when you start the test, but I can't get them to go away. I have four different ECUs to try it out with:
84 auto fed
84 5sp fed
85 5sp ca
87 5sp ca
all of them are turbo models.

Checked all grounds and 12v sources, but I could have missed something. Then I realized the injectors weren't firing anymore either. Checked the CAS to see if it was getting ground and 12v, it was. According to google, I can check for a 0-5v signal on the other two lines, but I'm not sure exactly how to do that. I also did swap the CAS from the 82 to the 84. I have access to two 84 z31s I can pull parts from, but I'm not sure what could be causing this. CHTS is new, connector checked and it has continuity to the ECU harness.

I figure the no spark and no pulse come from the same thing, but what's stopping it? I also tried wiring up pin 10 to ground to simulate a neutral switch, but still nothing.

Thanks guys. I'm getting really frustrated about being worked back into a corner after getting it running finally.

UPDATE, on a whim I checked the injector voltage. All six are showing 12v+ on both the 12v and the ground side of the connector. At the ECU plug, without an ECU, the pins read 12v+.

UPDATE 2, There was a melted section of wire in the injector harness, just separated them and covered with tape, but that makes me curious why they were melted in the first place.

Edited by noelawinslow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had it running, after cleaning up some wiring I stopped getting spark.

 

 

Sounds like you may need to "unclean" some of that wiring you cleaned up...  Go back over what you did.

 

The CAS signal wires can be tested by pulling the distributor and spinning it by hand (IGN ON, all wiring still attached - has to have power and GND for the optical module to work...)  If nowhere else, you can find the test procedure in the 1991 1992 Infiniti M30 FSM.

 

The injector is a coil (an electromagnet) it has battery voltage on one side continually.  The ECU will "pulse" a GND on the other side to make the electromagnet work.  The injector opens and it squirts fuel.  Because it's a coil, the source voltage will just pass right through it from one side to the other.  That's why you will see +12v on BOTH sides if the connector is attached.  The GND is only activated for milliseconds BY the ECU when the ECU wants the injector to open. 

 

Melted wiring is never a good sign.  Find out why they heated up.

 

tooquick:  don't look for problems you don't have...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I meant both sides of the injector connector were getting 12v positive, which I presume was from the melted wiring, because the voltage went away.I think I know why they heated up, the positive side was grounded at one point when I wasn't paying attention. 

 

 The reason I went with Z31 is because they're not supposed be far less picky about having sensors unplugged. what exactly does the ECU need to run? Would a dead CAS cause the injectors not to pulse? Does no pulse = no spark? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...