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cgsheen last won the day on October 31 2018

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About cgsheen

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  • Birthday 10/07/1951

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  1. Poly bushings on the compression rod? You'll need to replace the poly bushing on the back side with a rubber bushing - otherwise you'll probably break the compression rod. Ask me how I know... There are a fair number of thread posts regarding the issue.
  2. On the 260's there's also an alternate horn mount location on the front of the lower radiator core support. Upside down it puts them a little low...
  3. Jeff, it's just a switch... The easy way to test the fuel pump is just to "jumper" the oil pressure switch temporarily. Pull the wires off the switch and connect them together. That'll give the fuel pump relay the impression that the engine has oil pressure (the switch is "made"). I winched a little when you first mentioned "2 green wires" to the fuel pump - I knew only one of those was power to the electric fuel pump... Ground (Earth) wiring in Datsun's is always Black. (and Black/White is battery voltage).
  4. Those Tabco dog leg panels are much thicker metal than stock. It's not that bad of a repair and you definitely need to get behind there and treat the rust...
  5. Yup, that's where the horns are on my 260...
  6. 2-wire plug? If so, it's a NO CONNECTION. It'll show that in the wiring diagram - so download the Factory Service Manual.
  7. You may be able to get the spindle new from Nissan still. That won't help you with the distributor body, but it may be another resource.
  8. I'm totally impressed that you got the windshield in by yourself!
  9. Jeff, check out http://www.vintageconnections.com for replacement wiring connectors for your harnesses.
  10. Phil Robles swears by Carbotech. He had the same comment about dust, but he loves the friction material. His little Civic is amazing and he's quite a driver as well. I'm currently on Porterfield friction and like it - once it's hot...
  11. A few years ago I started using a bleeding pattern that is different than most. I bleed the master cylinder (in the car) first with tubes from the bleed ports back into the reservoirs. Then I actually start with the closest brake hardware (not the furthest as conventional wisdom states) and follow to next closest until I'm finished. (I do not use a vacuum bleeder but whatever works for you...) Doing it manually (and by myself) it usually only requires 3-4 pumps of the pedal at each wheel to fully bleed the system. I've had much better and more consistent results doing it that way.
  12. LOL, ya - I was talking about the engine harness - but that applies to most of the electrical in a Z or ZX as well... In the Turbo car it's more appropriately called the ECCS harness. Just so we're all talking about the same thing. The "pickup" inside the distributor is an LED "optical module" that "reads" the slits on that thin stainless steel disc - many refer to it as a "chopper wheel". That entire unit is the Crank Angle Sensor. And you're using a GM HEI equivalent ignition module which is a common replacement for the stock ignitor. No spark out of the coil at all? But you can get a coil spark manually? Start at the beginning and follow the path. The troubleshooting steps are laid out in the FSM. Don't get confused by the sections for Nissan Techs using the Nissan E.C.C.S. Analyzer. The same tests (almost) can be done without it and you'll find them in later pages of the manual. Please! DON'T open your AFM... It'll be the last thing you'll ever want to fiddle with and then only do it after you understand ALL ABOUT Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection. "Now what would you recommend when it comes to switching out my engine management system?" That's a tough question to answer - I don't know what you want to do with your car... The L28ET is a pretty basic early fuel injection engine. Most modern engine management systems are kinda overkill and may not be necessary at all if you keep the engine stock. If you modify the engine much from stock, you'll definitely need a way to tune it. Start reading here, you'll find many that have switched to Megasquirt but that's not the only thing you can do. There are a number of engine management systems that could be used That being said, on mine I've used the absolutely stock ECCS, I've used an Infiniti M30 (F31 - VG30E V6 engine) ECU "chipped" with a Nistune daughterboard and a custom ECCS harness, and I'm currently using Megasquirt 3X (full sequential fuel and spark using Ford COP coils) with another custom engine harness. I'm a wiring guy so I build my own harnesses.
  13. Did you bleed the brake master cylinder (first, or bench bleed)?
  14. A - What are you using for an Ignitor? (Early on in my L28ET life I read lots of stories about the stock Ignitor going bad - but that has never been my experience. I actually find them very reliable when wired correctly.) B - The ECU LED is not a "power on" indicator. Read the ECCS section of the FSM. Proper operation is: LED lights at Ignition ON and goes OFF when the ECU "senses" engine rotation (gets the proper signal from the CAS). If it's not turning off when cranking, there's a CAS or wiring fault. (everything in the ECCS system starts with the CAS. Once the ECU has verified engine rotation and position, it can start to send the spark signal. The ECU signal to the ignitor is hard to verify without a scope. C - You replaced the optical module in the distributor? More info may be needed... D - Search - there are numerous posts and pictures of the 4-pin plug for the CAS and it's wiring. Do you have the stock ECCS wiring harness? Any modifications to the harness? Like NewZed said above: Make sure you stay in the ECCS sections of the FSM. The FSM has information about both the EFI (N/A) and ECCS (Turbo) engines so don't get them confused. I actually find the 1982 FSM easiest to follow, but the same basic information is in all the Turbo sections 1981-1983. (I have found with my own engine and multiple others that most of the problems with these engines are with wiring and connectors then sensors. If your experience is like most others, you'll fight with the stock ECCS harness and components until you decide to replace it with a different engine management system or at a minimum replacing/building a new engine harness... I wish I had all the hours back that I spent with the stock ECU and harness - BUT I did learn a lot on that journey.)
  15. Jeff, A couple of tips from doing these things in the shop over the years: Take the hatch off and put it on two stands (one stand isn't big enough unless you use some lumber). Set the glass while (or whilst) on the stands and then reinstall the hatch. OR Prop up the hatch slightly with supports underneath while it's on the car. Start your string at the top and work to the bottom. Use a larger diameter cord. We use a 1/4" cotton cord and soak it in water for lubrication. (I originally used a thin cord thinking it would be easier to pull and have used various lubes (usually soap) BUT wet cotton thickish cord works the very best - easy to pull and goes quickly (here in the U.S. it's the type of cord that was used for "clothes line" (outdoors for hanging clothes to dry) back in the day) Lastly - you may not be re-installing the stainless trim in the weatherstrip BUT don't do it after the glass has been set. IF you're installing trim, do it before you set the glass! (A little note: some people don't realize that the trim is not just for looks. The stainless steel trim pieces actually help hold the weatherstrip to shape and keep it from pulling away from the body at the corners. You will notice this much more on the windshield glass. I know many people don't like the "chrome" look these days, but there was actually a purpose for those strips.) Chuck Sakura Garage
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