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cgsheen last won the day on October 31 2018

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About cgsheen

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  • Birthday 10/07/1951

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  1. In Tuner Studio, be sure to set Baro to Initial MAP Reading. My L28ET idles at around 35kpa. The default settings in Tuner Studio will likely not make changes at idle. Check the "Advanced Settings" tab and see what limits are set. Autotune will only make changes to the table within those parameters which generally include a minimum engine temperature, a set kpa (load) range, and a set RPM range. I think idle normally falls outside the default ranges. There is also an Idle VE Table you can work with. If you have followed the "Setting Up" steps in the documentation, you really should have a fairly safe usable starting point. You may also want to look at Andy Whittles YouTube videos. He has some decent videos up on Megasquirt and using Tuner Studio. If you do a lot of mountain driving up there with substantial elevation changes you should probably look at a dual MAP sensor or a secondary MAP sensor open to the atmosphere for a barometric reading.
  2. Yup... Chances are you'll need to get to a different engine management system at some point. Read my posts over the last 9 or 10 years and you'll see what we mean. I struggled with the stock ECCS for years before I decided to change. I started with an Infiniti M30 ECU swap with Nistune (much the same as a 300ZX only Infiniti - so, better - and my son's '76 280Z L28ET still runs well on the Infiniti ECU (also there used to be a bunch of M30's in the yards here in Phoenix - not anymore...). I tried a VE30DE ECU for COP at one time and ended up with an MS3X. There are any number of good options out there these days for stand-alone ECU's however.
  3. Yes, that's the electronic ignition module for the 280Z. It needs to be disconnected (removed) as I said above. But let me simplify this: ALL you need to spark an L28ET with a stock 280ZXT coil and ignitor is: - Black/White (constant battery voltage (+12v) at IGN ON) to top of "T" (2-pin connector on ignitor) - Yellow (Y/W - who cares) to "leg" (bottom) of "T" (2-pin connector on ignitor) FROM ECU pin 5 - The coil bracket must be bolted to sheet metal (meaning it HAS to be grounded). - The ignitor -> coil wiring needs to be as stock 280ZXT (meaning: Black/White wire from ignitor to coil "+" - Blue wire from Ignitor to coil "-" That's all. The signal to the Tachometer is lost in the above scenario, but that's easily remedied. Next time you post - Pictures!
  4. The '77 flywheel will be 225mm and the L28ET flywheel would be 240mm. There's a reason for the difference - the L28ET makes a lot more torque... I tried using a stock early Z clutch / flywheel package when I originally did my turbo swap, but the clutch slippage made me move to the 240mm turbo flywheel and an Exidy clutch package.
  5. The "T" connector on the Ignitor does NOT have a ground. (the ignitor gets it's ground from the bracket which should be connected to the body) It should be Black/White (+12v at IGN ON) on the top spade of the ignitor connector and ECU signal (pin 5) on the leg. The ignitor then feeds +12v to the "+" coil via a B/W. There shouldn't be any another connection to the "+" side of the coil. (Stock 280Z will have a B/W in the engine bay harness that goes directly to the coil "+". The turbo engine coil is not wired that way - the B/W goes to the ignitor. The coil "+" should already be wired to the ignitor in the stock 280ZXT coil/ignitor assembly...) You can use the stock 280Z Blue wire that was attached to the 280Z coil "-" to drive your Tach - IF you remove your stock 280Z Electronic Ignition Module (which you should have done anyway while doing a turbo swap). That Blue wire originates at the stock EIM as the coil "signal to fire" and tees off to drive the Tach. The Tach signal goes through a resistor in the dash harness. If you disconnect the Blue wire from the EIM it then becomes just a Tach signal (which will run just fine off the 280ZXT coil/ignitor)...
  6. Do you have the engine running currently (or have you had it running)? (I know it won't run without the AFM... my question is have you either verified the engine runs well with the ECCS harness that you have (perhaps by mocking it up on a temporary basis)… ) Obviously it's yours to do what you will, but I would caution against cutting anything up to make a permanent AFM mount if you haven't thoroughly tested your ECCS system and you are satisfied with it's operation.
  7. When I had such a thing, I didn't "mount" it. It just had to be hung as part of my cold air intake. I didn't have an intercooler at that time so that made it a little easier. I feel you, the logistics are tough. You may not want to hear this but your best option will probably be: don't use an AFM.
  8. I have to agree... I ran the stock 3.36 R-180 in my early 260Z for years (behind an L28ET) before swapping to a 3.54 R-200 - and an L24 doesn't have anywhere near the torque of the turbo motor. It is completely do-able however - a bit of a pain, but the swap is pretty straight-forward as described above.
  9. But, to answer your original question: No, you do not necessarily need to install an aftermarket fuel rail...
  10. Why did you install 430cc injectors? Do you have an aftermarket (standalone) ECU? If you're using the stock ECU, those injectors are FLOODING your engine and the stock ECU has no way of adjusting their pulse width for the increased flow that they have over stock injectors.
  11. By bet would be "3"...
  12. They are disconnected (wiring connectors pulled OFF) but leaking?? Normally they would be stuck closed. An injector has a "pin" that is normally forced closed by a spring and fuel pressure (when there is fuel pressure). It has an electromagnet that opens it very quickly and briefly but should be always closed tightly otherwise. They also normally have a filter to keep debris large enough to cause problems OUT of the pintle area. I would have to think long and hard before I left those injectors in my car... (You can work them as stated above - even a 9V battery will make them open. Make them "click" several times and see if they will then seal 100%. You'll need a spare Bosch Injector connector to do that easily - bare wires would be dicey - maybe a couple of small insulated spades crimped onto wire leads)
  13. cgsheen

    Starter wires

    I would disconnect that fuse panel from the console (trans tunnel) and lift it away from the sheet metal. Check to see if there's anything underneath that would be contacting the body. Nothing about that fuse panel should contact a ground source. No wires coming off it should be tied to ground. I'm wondering if the dash harness connectors that would go to the stock fuse panel are still intact. If so, an MSA replacement fuse panel could be used to simplify matters somewhat.
  14. cgsheen

    Starter wires

    Back to the beginning. If you look at the wiring diagram, the reverse light circuit is tied to the Accessory bus in the fuse panel. The circuit also feeds the wiper motor. Out of the 20 amp fuse (stock) there's a Blue/Red (LR) that runs through the dash harness -> engine bay harness -> wiper motor. There is a Red (R) spliced into the LR at some point that also (stock) runs through the dash harness to the engine bay harness. Stock, the wiring to the reverse switch on the transmission comes out of the loom about the same spot the wiring to the wiper comes out and runs under the trans tunnel on the right side to the switch on the transmission. A Red/Black (RB) comes out the other side of the switch and back along the same path that the Red went out. Once it's back inside the cabin, the RB connects to the body harness and goes back as power (+12v) to the reverse lights. The lights get their ground from back under the hatch (tied to the sheet metal somewhere IIRC) In your case the red should be connected to that 20 amp fuse output that also powers the wiper motor. The black is NOT a ground (if it's coming from the other side of the reverse switch) - it should connect to the Red/Black that's going back to the reverse lights. (I would not do it that way - as it's confusing to anyone else working on the car. Black in a Datsun should always be a ground. If you can't run it RB, use R - then people will at least know it's probably power) (A switch is merely a break in a wire - it is NOT "one side hot, one side ground". So, in this case the Red/Black is just a continuation of the Red wire. The reverse switch is there so the light only comes on when the transmission is in reverse. The reverse switch breaks the wire apart when not in reverse, and "puts the wire back together" when it is in reverse.) This is a very simple part of the process. I just learned most of the above looking at the wiring diagram and remembering how the wires hook up to my transmission. (OK, I have a little stronger background in Z wiring, I admit...) But, If this is too much, you'll need to get someone else OR - like they stated above - spend a good deal of time in learning. IMO an EZWire kit will not make this process simpler but at least it will be new wire - which is always a plus... You'll still need to understand how all these components are wired - and why. The dash harness (there are actually two separate harnesses strapped together as one assembly) is mildly complex - gauges, lighting, multi-function switches, ignition, fuse panel, flashers, stop lamp, hazard switch (OK, now I'm just being an a-Hole...). How do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time. This can be done - one step at a time.
  15. Yes. And you don't necessarily need to run wasted spark. Three IC's will give you 6 channels of logical spark (or go MS3X). Fairly easy to wire up in the proto area. Here's another weird thing: you can use a Nissan 6-channel ignitor and Ford 4.6 coils. I paid about $30 for 8 Ford curved boot coils - The Nissan Ignitor runs them well.
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