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cgsheen last won the day on October 31 2018

cgsheen had the most liked content!

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About cgsheen

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  • Birthday 10/07/1951

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  1. The Stop circuit has power on both sides (with the fuse removed) when the ignition is ON? I can't see how that should be correct. It's path is to one side of the hazard flasher and to the hazard switch. With the hazard switch OFF, it should just pass power to the brake (stop) switch (where power should stop until the switch is made). The only "feedback" source should be the hazard switch or the hazard flasher (which also goes back to the hazard switch).
  2. When you installed the new fuse box, did you have to twist the connector on the left side 180 degrees to get it connected? (Did you make sure the green wires lined up with green on the dash harness, blue with blue...) You can also verify the circuits with your multimeter. The Stop and Horn have the same feed through the Ammeter circuit (White) : The Stop comes out on a Green/Yellow, The Horn on a Green/Red. There are five circuits fed directly from that battery (two WR tied to that bus) : - 20 amp Common - Blue/White - 10 amp R Headlight - Red - 10 amp L Headlight - Red/Yellow - 10 amp Dome / Instrument - Red/Blue - 20 amp Park / Tail - Green/Blue Two circuits on the Accessory bus (Blue/Red) : - 20 amp A/C - Blue - 20 amp Wiper - Blue/Red One circuit on the Ignition bus (Black/White) - Flashers - Green
  3. Enjoy the build! Plenty of info - especially here - best of luck!
  4. Ya, my mistake - my old brain had ton = 1200 lbs stuck in it, rather than the CORRECT ton = 2000 lbs. Good thing I'm not selling things by the pound... Nothing to see here... Never-the-less, decent weight for a complete Z car.
  5. We've found that most stock L28's dyno about 110 or less depending on condition. 150 RWHP in a Z makes a fun driver. Get it out on the road and enjoy it!
  6. +1 I've been running my daily driver with this configuration for 7+ years.
  7. '74, '75, '76 are all the same door panel. Changed slightly in '77 with the change of the door.
  8. Poly bushings on the compression rod? You'll need to replace the poly bushing on the back side with a rubber bushing - otherwise you'll probably break the compression rod. Ask me how I know... There are a fair number of thread posts regarding the issue.
  9. On the 260's there's also an alternate horn mount location on the front of the lower radiator core support. Upside down it puts them a little low...
  10. Jeff, it's just a switch... The easy way to test the fuel pump is just to "jumper" the oil pressure switch temporarily. Pull the wires off the switch and connect them together. That'll give the fuel pump relay the impression that the engine has oil pressure (the switch is "made"). I winched a little when you first mentioned "2 green wires" to the fuel pump - I knew only one of those was power to the electric fuel pump... Ground (Earth) wiring in Datsun's is always Black. (and Black/White is battery voltage).
  11. Those Tabco dog leg panels are much thicker metal than stock. It's not that bad of a repair and you definitely need to get behind there and treat the rust...
  12. Yup, that's where the horns are on my 260...
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