cgsheen

Super common with the L series engines. When setting the distributor spindle by mounting the oil pump the drive gear turns the spindle as it engages the crankshaft gear. Suggestions: - Yup, verify TDC with a piston stop - easiest way. Remember that the piston movement slows at the top of the crank arc so the crank can travel quite a few degrees with little movement shown on the piston. If you're really good you could probably ferret out TDC with a straw, pencil, screwdriver, etc. down the #1 spark plug hole, but piston stop will nail it when used correctly. Mark it correctly on the pulley if actual TDC doesn't match the indicator. - The pictures in the FSM of correct spindle alignment cause more confusion than enlightenment. Also rarely do you get a good picture at a proper angle from anyone else. I've found it easier to set the approximate spindle position (with the top angled slightly left) and then set the distributor on temporarily and see where the rotor points. You can mark the distributor cap #1 wire position on the distributor body. At TDC, the rotor should be coming in contact with that #1 cap position. Notice that there is a wide arc to the rotor contact and quite a bit of adjustment in the distributor so what you think may be "close enough" may well be the exact thing you need. I'm usually dyslectic about which way to adjust the spindle when putting up the oil pump and it generally takes me several tries so I never bolt it down with a four bolts. I use one bolt, snugged into position, until I'm pretty sure the spindle lines up correctly. There it helps to have a helper who knows how you want it to look after you've pushed it up...

Just ordered. $12 but shipped "free" - so... I'd like to source the rubber boots - they don't last here in Arizona.

Very interested to see. Jim's Swiss 240Z (stock internals except for a mild cam) with ITB's and a Holley ECU tuned by our local legend - Tony at UMS - made about 183 RWHP. Jim was a bit disappointed (he was thinking 200ish) but we all thought that was pretty amazing for just ITB's and a good tune! It would be nice to see what all your engine work will accomplish. In ANY case it'll be a blast to drive!

Have you rebuilt your L28E with forged pistons and H-beam rods? Lowered compression? In my opinion that's too much turbo for the unmodified S30 chassis and "supports 500 HP" sounds good - but is it? In an unstiffened early unibody Z - probably not. We saw a 300HP RB25 swapped Z here in Phoenix tear the spot welds apart. It was a 240Z chassis and the 280 is a bit beefier but still. This is a town with no rust. The kit looks legit however (I'd still go for a different turbo, but that's me). I'm not a fan of the charge pipe config that an opposite-side intercooler requires but it's a little more difficult to get same-side charge piping through the radiator core support. Don't get me wrong, I'm in the TURBO EVERYTHING camp - but do your research, and do it the right way, and you'll have a Z that's FUN to drive and will stay together while you're doing it.

You're in Gilbert? Alma School and Guadalupe. I have a loose intake manifold if you'd like to look at it.

I bought the same parts to do DBW months ago - my AEM Infinity ECU supports it as does the RusEFI ECU that I'm also playing with. Got harnesses built, just haven't installed the hardware - so that video is going to be very helpful.

Practically everyone in here in the Phoenix area with a 240Z has swapped out their L24 for an L28. They just strip off the EFI and use their round top SU's. Easy HP bump. Every stock 280Z I've seen has been EFI.

(here I go again...) AND - there is NO reason to tighten either the drain OR fill plug on either the diff or transmission tightly! THERE IS NO PRESSUE INSIDE. Use teflon tape on the threads (3 or 4 wraps). Install the plugs snuggly (I sure as hell would NOT go 25 ft/lbs - not necessary) - ONLY TIGHT ENOUGH TO STOP LEAKAGE (of a viscous fluid that's not pressurized...). Hope that past installation hasn't damaged the cover plate threads. Next time you'll remove and reinstall these plugs without any drama.

🤣😅😂🤣

Huh? The 260Z dash design is what they carried through to the 280Z. There are major differences.

Yup, don't use Turbo injectors with a stock NA ECU. (unless you've figured a way to retune that ECU...)

Good luck with that... When you get yours in, send me a picture. I'll send you a picture of mine.

You should, the original outer metal piece of the stock bushing has to come out to fit either Prothane or Energy poly bushings. I've done several in the shop - it has to come out. I installed Energy poly in my personal 260Z (Goldie) nearly 10 years ago (and, yes, I cut that barrel out - with a sawzall (but, I'm careful) and, I daily drive my car)). Please don't hit that with a hammer anymore.

I think my trigger angle is about what you ended up with. The ECU needs to know TDC is coming BEFORE it actually happens and not just because we set our plugs to fire before TDC. It also needs time to make the calculations before the events are to happen. Like stated above the important part is not necessarily the trigger angle (as long as there's plenty of time before the event is to happen) but that the actual mechanical timing is the same as the reported timing from the ECU in TunerStudio. I don't think you need to worry as we have set up MS2 and MS3(X) boxes to run on both single coil and COP setups on l-series engines without issue in that regard. I think the trigger angle on one single coil N/A 280ZX L28E was in the 240-ish degree range. (if you think of it this way: 285 degrees is 75 degrees before the "event" if TDC is 360 degrees (or the same as 0 degrees in a 360 degree circle). 75 degrees gives the ECU time to calculate and still fire the plug before TDC even if the timing advance is 37 or more degrees.) I think DYIAutotune is pretty careful to state that 345 degrees is a starting point although I too wish they would change that figure - (and it might be based on what someone else told them and not actual experience) - but they do specifically tell you to set the trigger angle such that the timing reported by the ECU matches the engine timing shown when using a timing light. Another point you might consider. Make sure that the timing marks on your crank pulley actually match the true engine position. Verify compression stroke TDC. Easiest way is with a piston stop.

I really can't tell from either of your pictures. The mirror base should be centered in the "valley" just below the window trim and just above that final bend in the door skin (the bend that follows the front fender top curve and continues the full length of the car over the wheels on the quarter - the classic "Z shape" body line).