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Everything posted by cgsheen

  1. cgsheen

    $100 Chinese Ebay Turbo - T3/T04E

    I've been running one for several months (and a similar non-V-Band T04E for a couple of years before this one (it still works fine, wanted to reconfigure my exhaust and thought it was a good time to switch to V-Band)). Love the V-Band. Boosting to a Bar and it does very well. I daily drive my car and have taken several trips up in the the AZ mountains with sustained boost. It's been working far better than the price would suggest.
  2. cgsheen

    Body Panel Foam Cushioning

    I think that's what most of us do... The original stuff was asphalt and cork. Tin Benders (HVAC guys) use ( might be "used" - back in the day) something similar to insulate the suction side tubing on A/C systems - to keep condensation off of it. I have some, wonder if you can still buy it... They probably just use closed cell foam tube now.
  3. cgsheen

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    This is from the 1976 FSM: Front Axle 1976.pdf
  4. cgsheen

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Jeff, the torque procedure for the front axle nut is very specific. You'll find it in the Factory Service Manual. You'll lose your wheel bearings if you don't follow it. Also, there's supposed to be a "cage" that goes over the nut. After you properly torque the nut, you fit the cage (which is like a castle nut - a "castle cage" I guess...) such that you can get the clevis pin in place. The clevis pin through the castle and the cage over the nut keeps the nut in it's proper place post-torque. (A picture would be worth more than a thousand words in this case - but I don't have one...) An actual castle nut would work as well.
  5. cgsheen

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    Jeff, hate to keep harping on the transmission slave cylinder, clutch fork, collar, and throw-out bearing... BUT... I strongly recommend that you get the correct length collar and use the stock throw-out bearing. When all that is correct inside the bell housing, the fork should be pushed forward far enough that there is virtually no play between the fork and the stock slave push rod. In it's current configuration I believe you may well have trouble with the collar moving too far forward and slipping off the tube that it should glide back and forth on. If it does that while driving you'll be in trouble... The collar length needs to match the pressure plate thickness (not necessarily the type transmission you have but the clutch package). I have 3 different length collars in my collection. I also have fear and trepidation about that mustache bar. You definitely have an R180 diff and you need an R180 mustache bar that's mounted properly. The Z differential has a tendency to move - a lot - in it's factory fresh condition and I always want those bolt holes to fit nice and tight because the nuts will NOT hold the differential to the bar (without moving) by themselves.
  6. cgsheen

    Hood bonding problem

    Vibration is not your only enemy here. Even IF you could stiffen the attachment of the urethane to the hood, as to limit it's mechanical motion, there are still the laws of thermodynamics to content with. Plastics and metals expand and contract at highly different rates with changes in temperature. Even if you used the new flexible body bonding agents (which are amazing) and secured that interface well, you're still going to have the two disparate materials moving differently with temperature change. Plastics are very thermally active - sheet metal not as much. It will always eventually result in a crack between the two dissimilar materials. I'm with JMORT and Miles - leave an exposed seam.
  7. cgsheen

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    What slave cylinder are you using? The clutch fork you have is from a series one "monkey shifter" F4W71A 4-speed (1970 here in the US). That slave had an adjustable rod and a retaining spring. All the later transmissions used a solid fork (no holes) and a slave with a non-adjustable push rod.
  8. The early 260Z has the same bumper pistons that the 280's used. So, even though the early 260Z bumpers look similar to 240Z bumpers, they are not. Even though I believe these bumpers will mount on the 280Z pistons, I doubt that the side mounts will be similar. The early 260Z has the bumper depression (or recess) in the quarter panel like the 240Z - the 280Z of course does not. Because the early 260Z pushed the front bumper forward and put it on pistons for US crash standards, it also had "fillers" between the bumper and the body (and grill) that the 240Z did not. Mounted on the piston, the 260Z bumper sits probably 2 1/2" to 3" farther forward than the 240Z bumper did. Personally, I didn't like the early 260Z bumpers - even though they are more 240-ish. I removed the all pistons and put 240Z bumpers on my early 260 so they would fit tighter to the body.
  9. cgsheen

    82-83 Turbo ECU/ECM

    PM sent
  10. cgsheen

    Door lock

    You're talking about an early S30 - 1970-1976, right? Not a '77-'78? The rotating mechanism in the earlies can get sticky over the years and the grease turns solid. A temporary fix is to lube the rotating mechanism on the outside of the door with some spray lube. Overdo it - turn by hand and release until it rotates smoothly and easily. The real fix is to take apart the door, remove the entire mechanism to completely clean and re-lube it before re-installing...
  11. cgsheen

    Dash cap removal

    Does the dash cap prevent the dash finisher (Instrument Garnish) from being removed? There are a few bolts under the finisher - at the bottom of the windshield, the rest are under the dash and shouldn't require removal of the cap. Unless you can't get the finisher off... Most dash caps glue on but you probably won't know what they used until you try to remove it. Good luck.
  12. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    Look at the picture of the temperature sender. The "top" has come off - I could tell that from the black goo oozing out in your pictures. That black "wire" you're pulling out is the internal wiring to the thermistor. It's broken so you don't need to be gentle with it anymore! Pull it out and disconnect the yellow wire from the top of the sender... Remove the nut and pull out the rest of the sender from the thermostat housing. Buy a new temperature sender online or at your local parts store and get it installed. (Save the "hold down" nut just in case the new sender doesn't come with one.) Nissan used the same resistance value for these senders for many years of Z's (and ZX's).
  13. cgsheen

    What is this part? (is there a thread for this?)

    Not fuel, just vacuum from the manifold (there's a check valve in the supply tube that keeps boost from the VCM). It has two vacuum solenoids that control EGR and AAC. There are four hose connections in the stock installation: One from the intake manifold, one from the cold air boot (IIRC), and two to hardlines on the side of the manifold that lead to the AAC and the EGR valves. I think most people with turbo engines in their early Z have already removed the VCM and capped the lines... It does leave you without EGR and AAC however - assuming the VCM is actually still working.
  14. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    Well, the temperature sender itself is just a thermistor - a variable resistor that changes with heat. There's a chart in the FSM with approximate resistance values at various temperatures. Easy to test with a multimeter - one probe to ground, one probe to the male bullet on the end of the sender. Otherwise, it's following the circuit diagram and testing the wiring, connectors, and the gauge...
  15. cgsheen

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    You don't need to remove the dash. The blower housing will come out with the dash in place. The nuts that hold it in place are on the firewall so they're not all really obvious, but if you get in there you'll find them... Look in the FSM to see how it's mounted.
  16. cgsheen

    82-83 l28et distributor plug pics please!

    If you can't locate the stock sub-harness, this is the connector that mates with the CAS optical unit: http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/81 You only need the "female" side, but one of these will allow you to make your own replacement plug for the CAS.
  17. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    There are three sensors in the thermostat housing: Thermotime Switch (EFI), Temperature Sensor (EFI), Temperature Sender (coolant gauge). The EFI sensors have 2-pin Bosch connectors. The Temperature Sender has a male bullet built into the sensor (usually does not have a wire). The yellow wire that connects to it has a female bullet. There is no "ground wire" on this sensor. The Temperature Sender is cheap and readily available (although all the listings I see are for the sensor only and don't include the nut that goes over the barrel and holds it in place). Thermo_sensors.pdf
  18. ZHoob is correct - there is no "prime" on these early EFI Z's. Not on the NA ZX's either - not until the turbo engine (L28ET) ECCS ECU. And the fuel pump SHOULDN'T run continuously - that means a very important saftey circuit has been disabled or is inoperable and needs to be corrected. That's the switch in the AFM he referred to. It's bypassed in the Ignition START position and power is passed to the fuel pump. In any other ignition position, it's the AFM switch that should provide power to the fuel pump. The logic being: IF air is passing through the AFM with enough velocity to make the vane move, the engine must be turning. If the engine is NOT turning (running) the switch should be open and NO power should be going to the fuel pump. If it doesn't work that way someone has screwed with the circuitry or the AFM is defective. The switch in the AFM is pretty simple (and shouldn't default to ON) - it's more likely that someone has bypassed the safety feature...
  19. cgsheen

    '78 Factory A/C Relay Wiring Questions

    No (or not necessarily...). A relay is just an electrically operated switch. It's almost always activated by another switch (switch working a switch - weird huh?). Many of the switches in a Z are "switching" (breaking) the ground wire. Thats the case here. So, the relay coil is powered by the wire from the fuse panel (which is activated by the ACC (accessories) circuit I believe (it's not "hot" continually)) BUT, it's not active (the electromagnet doesn't "work") until it has a ground applied (has a path to ground). The ground comes from the blower switch and passes through all the other control switches in the A/C circuitry (microswitch, thermostat switch, etc.) If any of these switches in line are not "made" (closed), the relay coil is inactive (no path to ground) and it's switch is "open" which simply means no voltage is being passed to the compressor clutch magnet. The relay is a way to control the switching of the compressor ON/OFF with lower amperage wiring and switches while the relay switch provides a higher amperage wiring path to the compressor. The relay itself is VERY simple, the multitude of additional switches and safeties and controls in the A/C circuitry make understanding the circuit more difficult. You probably got lost at the blower switch... (The ground path is: Earth (shown in diagram above as an attachment to the body of the Ignition Relay) B -> Blower Switch -> LW -> LY MicroSwitch -> Y Thermostat Switch -> BG to Connector -> YR Pressure Switch -> Y to Relay. (If you look closely at the Blower Switch, it shows that B -> LW is closed in all fan speed positions and open when in the OFF position.) OK, all the wire color changes don't help either... The Pressure Switch in these cars is a "high pressure cutout". That switch should ordinarily be closed unless the high pressure side (liquid line) of the refrigeration tubing is overly high pressure. That doesn't happen normally if the A/C refrigerant charge is correct, but it's a "safety" that "shuts off" the compressor in an over-pressure situation. It does that by removing the ground connection to the A/C Relay. It resets itself when the pressure drops.
  20. cgsheen

    '78 Factory A/C Relay Wiring Questions

    ???? A simple relay has a switch and a coil (electromagnet). The coil requires power and a ground to operate. The switch is just a "break" in a strand of wire. In automobiles it can be a battery voltage wire or a ground wire.
  21. cgsheen

    '78 Factory A/C Relay Wiring Questions

    The two LY's are +12v power from the fuse block - one is power to the relay switch and one is power to the relay coil, the L is power out of the relay switch (the opposite side of the switch to your LY) to the compressor clutch magnet, Y is obviously the ground side of the relay coil (again, opposite side of the coil than your 2nd LY). That's how you wire up your new relay...