volfan98 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Ok guys, I've got my turbo swap running well (83 L28ET into a 1975 280Z) and everything works except for my coolant temp gauge. Right now I have the coolant temp sending unit hooked up to one of the wires in the L28ET harness and the yellow wire from the stock gauge running to the yellow wire in the L28ET harness. The coolant sending unit is brand new, and I know the wire running to the gauge has continuity because the gauge will max out if I ground the wire. Any ideas? I hate driving it much until I know that it's not running hot. Thanks! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Have to plug the stock wire harness into the sender. Should be in the neck. The ecu does not need the info, just the stock harness that goes to the gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 (edited) Ok guys, I've got my turbo swap running well (83 L28ET into a 1975 280Z) and everything works except for my coolant temp gauge. Right now I have the coolant temp sending unit hooked up to one of the wires in the L28ET harness and the yellow wire from the stock gauge running to the yellow wire in the L28ET harness. The coolant sending unit is brand new, and I know the wire running to the gauge has continuity because the gauge will max out if I ground the wire. Any ideas? I hate driving it much until I know that it's not running hot. Thanks! Matt Well, that sounds right... Yellow on the L28ET harness (female bullet (in it's stock form) up near the CAS connector) runs to "connector (plug) 3" that comes out of the stock ECCS harness near the ECU. Run the Yellow from there into the Temp Gauge signal wire in the dash harness. You're sure it's connected to the temperature sender, not the thermotime switch? (didn't buy a thermotime switch instead of a temperature sender did you?) Just a thought... Easy to test. The sender will show resistance if you connect an Ohm meter between the post (male bullet) and the body or the tstat housing. The thermotime switch will show an open circuit if you do the same thing. It's a switch that's only "made" if that sensor is really hot. Your swap probably has no use for the thermotime switch unless you're using the aux. cooling fan ("hair dryer") and it's controller on the injectors. Oh, the FSM shows the resistance values for specific temperatures and how to test the temperature sender. Edited June 17, 2013 by cgsheen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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