Stripped nut on steering! How do i fix this?

[dpuma8]

I had a Grant Steering wheel on my Datsun I did not like so i bought a new one. The nut that holds the steering kit down is now stuck halfway down the threading. So now my steering wheel moved forward and back a few millimeters now and it is annoying. I cant move the nut at all. I have seen online how to rethread a hole but what about in my situation? Can a machine shop fix this? What are options?

 

This is for a 1975 280z

[Miles]

That nut usually spins down by hand. Sounds like you cross threaded the nut. 

 

Two options:

 

1. Attach the correct size socket to a six inch extension and long breaker bar (longer the better). The braker bar should provide enough twisting force to back the nut off. Then chase the threads on the steering shaft (Ace Hardware sells the die). Buy a new nut and try it on the threads after you clean them up.

 

or

 

2. Use a Dremmel with a cutting wheel, if there is room, and split the nut without damaging the threads on the steering shaft.  Then chase the threads on the steering  shaft. Buy a new nut and try it on the threads after you clean them up.

 

If you screwed  the threads up on the steering shaft beyond repair then you will have to replace the shaft.

 

In the future run that nut down by hand before putting a wrench on it.

[z240]

Before you give up and use the big tools, add lots of spray lube and work that nut on and off, going just a bit more off each time. It may come off if you're very patient.

 

Then its on to power tools and leverage. Unless you have lots of room in that Grant hub to get a dremel cut off blade on the nut, your only real recourse is to do as Miles says and use a BIG ratchet and long handle with your 22mm socket to apply whatever torque is needed to just force it. Just let the steering go hard left to lock the column instead of using the key-in-lock position steering lock. You may shear that pin and cause more trouble.

 

If it comes off, inspect the threads very carefully. NUT and shaft.  Get a new nut for sure.   At the very least you need a die to clean up the threads you have left.  If the threads are only wrecked ABOVE where the nut finally tightens down, then you're good to go. If the threads where the nut seats are bad, you have a tough decision to make. Is there any chance that nut will back itself off 2 years from now when you've long forgotten to check it now and then, and the wheel slips forward off its splines during an emergency and something bad happens? This means a new steering shaft.

 

If you get it loose, and the nut begins to turn freely but is not coming off the shaft, ie the threads are really boogered, then you're stuck with a couple of tough choices.  One involves a saws-all and the steering shaft.... Take the column covers off and the switch gear, tuck back all the wiring and decide where to cut. Likely right behind the Grant hub at the base of the splines.  This means you need a new steering shaft.

 

Might be wise to remove the steering column from the car and doing this on the bench.

 

Another means deciding to split the Grant hub to get the access you need to then cut the nut off the shaft. This means a new hub, and depending on the threads on the shaft, a new steering shaft.

 

If you put a LOT of torque on the nut to remove it, you may have also damaged those nasty little hard to get u-joints on the engine bay side of the steering shaft (or made the wear/play they already have worse) .

 

See where this is going?

Edited July 8, 2013 by z240

[Pharaohabq]

Lots of really good advice on this,Moving the steering wheel all the way to the left is probably the best, since you don't want to mess up your ignition lock.  I'd recommend getting a bar or pipe of some sort and wedging in in the engine bay across the Steering isolator to help save your U joints.   Then hit it with a breaker bar and maybe a piece of pipe as an extension. turing it clockwise (tighten) then oil it, then counter clockwise to loosen. back and forth till your "threads" are lubed, it should come off.  If not the dremel may work,  if you cut it most of the way through, you can stick a hard chisel in the cut to snap the nut loose especially if you cut it on two sides, without hurting your "threads".  You'll need a Die to chase the threads.  A machine shop could probably do that too, but if anything requires removing the column, then it'd be cheaper/easier to replace it.

 

Now if your nut is boogered, AND the steering column threads are trashed, you may be able to get a welder to replace some metal on the column, sand then rethread so that a new nut could fit.  Any good mechanic shop should be able to fix this issue for you. The issue is time and cost, I wouldnt  expect less than a couple hours Labor to repair/replace that column. (replace with you providing the part) 

 

Don't worry if you have to replace your column, there's a lot of wrecked Z's around, and nobody usually replaces the column, so you should be able to buy one cheap. ask your local Z club, there's like 6 or 8 clubs in Ca. Doing it yourself isn't really hard, it's also a great time to replace the 40 year old rubber isolator and maybe steering rack mount rubber. Rubber or Poly is fine for this. I prefer rubber, less vibration. 

 

If you could take a picture, that ALWAYS helps us know exactly what we're trying to help you with.

 

Phar

[Chaparral2f]

Turn the wheel all the way to the left. then use a 1/2" driver impact gun and a deep socket. The key word here is impact. Let the wrench rattle first one way then the other.  Be patient, and it should work its way off.