blueshark123 Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 So I'm ordering the last bits needed to get the motor in and was going some research on the clutch line. I have seen people use anywhere from a 32 to a 48 inch clutch line. What's the shortest length I can order and still be safe? I tried looking up part numbers that were provided in some threads for the 48 incher but it appears that it no longer exists. I'm about to order this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-655100 but I am not 100% sure that it will be long enough. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 Blue Are you looking for the bleeder line or the one from the master cylinder? I got the 25" bleeder from speedway motors and it reaches to the top of the firewall. I got the 30" cylinder line but I am going to use a steel hard line from the master to the braided flex to keep the area around the masters clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshark123 Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 I'm looking for the line to the CMC. I am probably also getting the bleeder from speedway. Ok so sounds like I should be ok with a 36 inch line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 My 30" was pretty close, if I was going to order another one I would go shorter and just run the solid line down the firewall a little more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 You should be fine with a 32" line, especially if you use the one with a solid 90 degree bend right off the master. I recommend the longest bleeder line you can get 48" or more so you can control where the fluid spills when you are bleeding. You will spill it, so plan ahead where you will put a catch can. Check my content and look for my bleeder that allows bleeding inside the fender, so the drops fall on the ground instead of in my freshly painted engine bay. Also, be sure to get one with a speed bleeder. I learned all this the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueshark123 Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Thanks RebekahsZ. Where did you end up getting your bleeder from? I was looking at purchasing the ones offered by speedway motors but doesnt appear to be a speed bleeder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naptown Dave Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 I think you can get the speed bleeder fitting at a regular auto parts store. Advance Auto has them in my area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 The first whack at this I used a short bleeder that came out of the bellhousing and was secured under the car. You had to jack up the car and it was a pain to get access to. I added a speed bleeder which helped a little, but not much. When I put in a clutch kit the company rep talked to me about remote bleeders and the merits of a LONG bleeder (no jacking the car up, very easy access.). I got it from Eastcoast Performance. They are on line and respected on ls1.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastTnZ Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 I've got to bleed my clutch master this week after I just installed it but before I bolted my Trans to the engine I installed a tick performance 4' speed bleeder which was recommended by everyone. I'd highly recommend it so you don't have to jack up the car and make it a 2 man job. Mine was like $50 from tick. Well worth the money vs the hassle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Bench bleed the master and be prepared to need to vacuum bleed the system (something I learned from SunnyZ). Keep you vacuum pressure low and be patient. You really gotta get 100% of the air out and it can be a serious PITA. No room for error on that. Your clutch has to 100% disengage or you will warp your flywheel (done that). You can get by with as small a master as 3/4" (m1moel) or as large as 1" (me). 7/8" seems most popular. Your needs will depend most on available pedal stroke length. My stroke length (that just doesn't sound right) is limited by a short rod (digging this hole deeper) and an ovalized hole in the pedal. I took a shortcut on the rod and just used the 240z rod in the Tilton master. Next time I will modify my clevis to allow use of the longer rod that comes with the master because I have to keep my clevis at the very end of the adjustment rod). And I need to weld and redrill that ovalized hole in the pedal. Only down side to larger master is a tired left leg. Also your hydraulic throw out bearing has to be shimmed properly unless you stay with 100% stock components, in which case you will likely be fine without checking this. I learned all of this by trial and error and lots of mistakes. If you have trouble PM me. The "drill mod" and the need for a Tick master cyl are all bull if you ask me (ls1.com discussion topics). Finally, some of the Tilton and Wilwood masters are no good right out of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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