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Engine won't crank, no fuel pump prime


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After throwing in the towel on my well documented cluster f*ck of a L28ET swap, I took my car to Awesome Z in Houston.  With a little wiring they were able to get my car running.  They supplied me with a Fuel Pump Control Modulator and said my ECCS was bad.  I physically went to the shop and started my car on what Doug the owne called a "barely ok ECCS". The car need constant thottle to stay running, but nontheless ran.  All I asked them to do was get the wiring correct and made sure the car started.  They also had to replace the coil and ignitor. They also had their not so good ECU just laying on the floor when I started it, I thought the ECCS needed to be grounded.

 

I had the car towed back to my house where I was under the impression that a good ECCS and taking care of some vacuum leaks would resolve my issues.  I bought an ECCS off of a member who insisted the unit is good. 

 

I went to plug in my ECCS yesterday re attached my negative battery cable and got nothing.  The fuel pump will not prime and the car won't even crank.  Here is what I have tried so far.

 

Cleaned negative battery cable where it is grounded to starter/block mounting hole.  Removed ignition switch from tumbler and turned over with flathead screw driver.  I popped off my fusible link covers and checked them, I am not sure what the hell could have happened in a course of 10 days sitting in my climate controlled garage, but I digress. The box closest to the front of the car had one link that was pretty corroded and was difficult to remove from the male spades.  Are these links nothing more than wires with female spades? Should I even be concerned with this since nothing changed from the car starting at the shop? Is there anything out there in the aftermarket to resolve these 4 decade old troublesome links?

 

Also the door buzzer intermittently works and then stops.  The voltage gauge is at 12 volts, if I turn on the head light it kills the gauge.  The needle will intermittently jiggle some too with the key out of the ignition. 

 

I have 12 volts at the battery and I also tested and got 12 volts at the starter. 

 

I am baffled how all these electrical issues could have developed from nothing more than a roll off wrecker ride back to my house and the car sitting in my garage for 10 days. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

You can source modern fuses and install them yourself. I'm also pretty sure they messed with the wiring, at least moving and prodding just to see where everything goes. Probably the first they they tried is checking the grounds/cleaning the connections.

 

Headlights shouldn't kill the battery unless there is a short somewhere.  

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