So Cal Wiring Guru Needed! L28ET Wiring

[Pharaohabq]

In those pictures you've got a lot of bare wires. I'd tape those up and check your fuses again.  Check the voltages on the ECU. If your not confident with that harness, then you'd be best off replacing it, but even a used harness, you're going to need to know what goes where. so Label label label.  it's a PITA I know, but when you find the one that's disconnected and allowing all the happy to escape, and reconnect it, it's magic.  Unfortunately we don't know what the original failure was before he swapped the harness.  it could entirely be something else. Did you test the outputs and ohms on the AFM?  If it's not reading/functioning properly, it won't allow the Fuel pump to turn on, thus no start.

 

Another option you have is to go with Megasquirt/MS+S.   If you do that, then you'll be likely cutting out the issue by replacement.  MS requires a bit of other modifications, and on a Turbo its got a couple other things you'd have to look out for, but it's been done many many times.  One of the beauties of MS is that you get to ditch the AFM and put in a MAP and O2 sensors. based on those readings the MS adjusts your fuel table for smooth reliable running. Tuning is as easy as loading or tweaking your maps through a USB cable.  Though on a turbo, it'd probably be a good idea to consult a pro before turning up the boost much.

[~KnuckleDuster~]

I appreciate the responses you guys have given me. I'm going to start with some basic stuff first before I start buying a new wiring harness or ecu. First thing I would like to clear up is the ground straps. I read that the body is the best area to ground on and not the starter. I currently have both battery ground straps attached to the starter.

 

 

Edited August 20, 2013 by ~KnuckleDuster~

[Dan_Austin]

Everyone has to start somewhere, but this is really basic stuff.  You only have one battery

ground, which is the first photo, provided it connects to the battery's negative terminal.

The cable on the smaller cylinder (solenoid) should be connected to your positive terminal.

 

As long as both are connected to the correct terminal, then the main connections are correct.

There are smaller (10~12 guage) wires from the battery, one from the positive terminal to the

chassis harness and one from the negative to a chassis ground, which would normally be only

a few inches from the battery itself.

[~KnuckleDuster~]

Everyone has to start somewhere, but this is really basic stuff.  You only have one battery

ground, which is the first photo, provided it connects to the battery's negative terminal.

The cable on the smaller cylinder (solenoid) should be connected to your positive terminal.

 

As long as both are connected to the correct terminal, then the main connections are correct.

There are smaller (10~12 guage) wires from the battery, one from the positive terminal to the

chassis harness and one from the negative to a chassis ground, which would normally be only

a few inches from the battery itself.

 

The smaller wires you speak of are not present.

[winstonusmc]

Well, spent all day fixing this harness. It now has proper fuses and relays to control the ECU, fuel pump, and all the solenoids and sensors in the bay. The injectors fire and the fuel pump primes and runs while cranking. There is still no spark. Wire is ran from pin 5 of the ecu straight to the igniter transistor. The coil has power and sparks when cheating the negative to ground but I can't get spark when cheating the igniter. There is nothing hooked up to the speed sensor, neutral switch, temp sender, but it should still spark. I figure if something was keeping the ECU from firing the spark, the injector wouldn't fire either. Its pointing at the ECU or igniter still. At least the harness is cleaner and more reliable.

[~KnuckleDuster~]

The HEI module upgrade had been done prior to this per the write up with the same problem. I currently have another ecu on the way.