Jump to content
HybridZ

1978 280z GTO LS1 T56 TTT


Recommended Posts

So this it how it started. Isn't it always the way? It just followed me home! I haven't had a Z since the 80's. I spent the last several years building a Sunbeam Alpine. It had a Ford V6, I put in a T5 from a 2000 Mustang in it, Tru trac rear diff, 4 linked it, Mazda RX7 turbo brakes all around... So much stuff, but my wife can't stand riding in a car without AC down here, so unfortunately I had to pass it on so that cash is funding the Z project. Since I always had a soft spot for the Zs I started looking and found one in Texas. Of course I only could get a description over the phone and VERY few pictures, and guess what!!! I found one of the elusive rust free Z's. So without high hopes I headed to Texas to get it. 9 hours or so later there it was, in all its rusted glory! Actually it wasn't too bad. The usual rust in no structural places at all. Offered less than half of what we agreed on the phone and was ready to walk away. Next thing I know I'm at the uhaul place getting a trailer. So it all begins again. With this build I am buying as much bolt on already made items as possible. On my last car there was no support so I had to draw, design, get water cut, adapt EVERYTHING. I want this to go much faster. So quick summary from then to now is I got a 2004 GTO engine and transmission, JCI mounts, JTR headers are supposed to be here today. I pulled the rear drivetrain from a 91 Q45 and rear brakes to go with that from a Z32. Half the TTT rear suspension is here and the other half should be next week.

post-37191-0-18761600-1377788548_thumb.jpg

Edited by socorob
Link to comment
Share on other sites

78 from Texas for an LS swap huh? I have a sweet spot for that car already as that is how mine started! What does the dash look like? Mine didn't have any cracks, it had CAVERNS! lol

 

Good luck with the swap. Hope to see your documented progress on the board :)

 

Joe

Edited by rags
Link to comment
Share on other sites

These are the style of wheels I'm planning on using since I will be converting to 5 lug. I cut the rust out the floors an welded new sheet metal in and of course it was rusted under the drivers side seat rail. Since I had to take that one out I figured may as well remove them all. What a PITA. The guy with the spot welder who Installed them at nissan must have been having a bad day because there were spot welds on top of spot welds. That's been the worst job I've done so far on the car. I bent up some 1/16 plate to make new seat rails to fit Miata seats and to put them lower at a normal height. I'm 6'1 and with the stock Z seat my helmet was touching to roof at all times. That needed to be fixed.

post-37191-0-36964200-1377790187_thumb.jpg

post-37191-0-43646600-1377790765_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The dash has a cover, and I'm scared to remove it to see what lurks underneath. If I have to pull the dash for anything, I will probably try to fix it because, quoting Jalopnik, "the Z dash covers look about as natural as Donald Trumps toupee."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thing I like about a cap is that 1) it is fast so you can move on to more interesting matters 2) how long will it take for your NOS "new" dash to develop a crack? My next z will have no dash-problem solved. Under the dash work is the closest thing to burning in hell that I can imagine. Exposed wiring is sexy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh yeah! Torq Thrust D's are definitely one of my favorites. They only go up to 16's though. Vintage Wheel works 45's go at least to 17, and you can get them in something like a 2.5" range of backspacing. I want to go with 17's in case one day I decide to go with crazy big brakes. Does anyone happen to know what size wheels the 1st 350z had that came with the Brembo track rotors?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

While I'm waiting for my turn to use the lift I have just been amassing parts. I have also started putting together sub assemblies as much as possible for a fast swap when it comes time. I'm on the northshore and I think NGO is on the West Bank. I also have a friend here who is going to do an LS swap so there's at least 4 of us in the area. I haven't started yet so I'm not sure how good of advice I'll be able to give, but I can try to help with what I know so far.

post-37191-0-41423700-1379217422_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can help a little bit also, only things I know so far is from what I been reading and researching. I am currently working on my welding skills with MIG and TIG. And what Rob said, I am located on the westbank. We all should one day just get together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks. From what I understand, the ballast resistors by the clutch master are no longer used. Can anyone confirm I have that right before I get out the wire cutters?

 

Also some wires from there go to the relays by the battery under the black cover. From wiring diagrams one appears to be for the fuel pump. Can I gut those if I'm using the current performance ls swap fuse and relay block?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't rec. cutting any wires . With my conversions , I removed all unnecessary components and taped up all the wires and labeled them . I found myself going back and reused some of those wires for add-ons . This way I don't have to run any new wires for add-ons or whatever .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...