Guest Anonymous Posted July 20, 2002 Share Posted July 20, 2002 i recently got a 1983 datsun 280zx, and it hesitates at 50 mph REAL bad. like its about to stall-bad. also, in 1st gear the idle buckles like a damn horse or something. bouncing from 2-3k rpms. ohg yeah,.. uhh is that a turbo or a hair dryer to the left side? it has a plastic peice that reaches over the manifold cover. sorry if my questions are dumb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 Y'know, I'm sorry but you are either at the wrong address (try Zcar.com) or you are ill-prepared to ask your question. Set your valves, replace your plugs with platinums, replace your cap & rotor with the best brass contact items available, the best plug wires, check all your injector, ECU, sensors, and AFM electrical connections, replace your air and fuel filters, use gas treatment and a fresh tank of premium gas...then re-ask your question. I'm sorry, but this forum is not a baby-sitting service, it is a place for those who have already paid some basic dues about troubleshooting their cars and making them run strong; not barely run. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 DAW ... Benjie has to start some where and this is the place to start learning. I learn something every day by reading these posts.No one should go away from this forum hungry for knowledge since they may opt for a rice diet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 I agree that this question should have been posted in the troubleshooting board, instead of the high performance board. But, I don`t think it`s appropriate to tell them they don`t belong here and to go to another site Everyone has to start somewhere. Try to be a little more patient with the "newbies" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 My post was rude and obnoxious and I appologize. I've been helped greatly by the wealth of knowledge and experience by members of this site and I too devote a generous amount of time in the interest of trying to help others. I think this site is great and has avoided some pitfalls that other such enthusiast sites fall into by losing the focus of the mission. I personally love the challenge of troubleshooting but I feel that for a bone stock 280ZX (no info that it's not), purchasing and perusing a Haynes manual should be a minimal requirement before a query to Datsun L6 Performance Board is made. So, sorry for spewing and overeacting but it seems to me that such general questions about stock passenger cars belong in another board and when any of us post, we have an obligation to include as much detail and history as possible in the interest of efficiency in diagnosing a problem. Mea culpa. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 Careful with the platinum plugs in a ZX. I have had problems with them before. Car had no power with them. Switched to NGK's and did not have the problem anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 The comment about the platinum plugs was meant in a general way re assuring quality components in good condition have been established before efficient troubleshooting can be done. Cutting back to the chase, and assuming the basics have been addressed first, the loping erratic idle and a severe mid-range hesitation may well be a vacuum leak or over-lean condition from such things as a crack in a vacuum hose (or a hose pulled off), a sticking door in the AFM, a bad input switch or sensor for the ECU; or from erratic fuel supply due (assuming the filter has been replaced, and the gas is good, and the system isn't all gummed up) to corrosion on injector connectors or harnesses or ECU, or something as obscure as the venting for the fuel tank being blocked somehow. When troubleshooting a used car which you just bought, I'd recommend looking at the sparkplugs, running a compression while they're out, and replacing them if they're worn or fouled. Replace the gas if the car might have been sitting for a long time or you're unsure of the quality of the fuel. Replace fuel filter unless it looks new, replace plug and coil wires if they look really old, ohmeter test for opens if they look OK. Inspect cap & rotor for cracks, arcing, wear. Hold air filter element up to light, if you can see light through it it's probably not the culprit. Disconnect the large hose between AFM and air cleaner and move the flap through its range with your finger to assure it isn't sticking. Test TPS and cyl head temp sensor with ohmeter. Set ignition timing. Now you are ready to troubleshoot the problem (unless you found it already by doing above steps). DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Aaron Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 DAW, my previous post may have come across wrong. You are arguably the most knowledgeable person on this board when it comes to the L engines. I thank you for sharing your knowledge and insight to the members here. To my previous point, I have known people that had great luck with the platinums. I just wanted to voice my personal bad experience with platinums to assist this or future posters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 I also didn't care for platnium plugs with my 240. Got better performance out of the NGK's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAW Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 I use Bosch platinums in my family cars and I've used NGKs with good success (that includes not having to change them frequently). For a higher performance or racing engine I haven't found platinums to make much sense because there are fewer choices in heat ranges in the platinum lines of most brands (and sometimes the retailers will try to put the round peg in the square hole, so look up your application yourself and cross-reference to confirm); and due to the cost...there will be a lot more plug changing in the high performance engine and a fresh set of steel electrodes probably perform better than a set of the more expensive platinums which are good condition but higher mileage. If there aren't a lot of tuning changes going on then I've usually run platinums in the street turbo cars I've had (Talon TSI, Volvo 940Turbo, Starion ESI-R, L28ETs) and felt they're worth the higher initial cost than regular plugs. DAW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 If you can get Denso Iridiums for your car DO IT! I've got these in the Supra and they cured some BIGTIME ignition issues. Not only that but they're next to impossible to foul. I had a MAP hose split and my car was blowing BLACK smoke out the back it was so rich! Sure enough the car ran a little rough after this was fixed, for all of about 20mins. Then it cleaned right up and ran fine Little tiny electrodes on those bad boys and they cannot be gapped. The Iridium electrode is hard as heck, it won't degrade either. Seriously, I LIKE these plugs even if they do cost an arm and a leg. Sparkplugs.com has them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 never had any luck with anything but the autolite .99 cent plugs myself, every other kind ive ever had fouls out on me in a month, autolites have lasted me years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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