280z 5.3 Turbo Build

[SUNNY Z]

Who is going to be doing the tuning on the car?  Joey @ Excessive Autosports here in Sioux Falls, SD, has a huge amount of experiance tuning E85/E99 LS engines had all my Subaru work done on his AWD dyno. 

 

This project looks like an extream amount of fun/headaches. Ill be down at KC2K14 hope to see it down there if you make it.

 

Ryan Mitchell (Maxx mitchell) will be tuning the car. He is a wizard with the Holley setups.

 

Correct on the headaches. And forget the empty pockets, I had to sell my pants! I'd love to make it to the KC event, but I'm not sure it'll work. I have a ton going on at work that weekend, and will probably have to be there.

[SUNNY Z]

Started dis-assembly on the 5.3 last night. Pretty sure this thing never had an oil change in its 60K mile life!!! Its super oil stained and dirty.

 

 

Pulled all the pistons / rods, labeled them, took the rings off, and soaked them in some high power degreaser (seen here to sit overnight).

 

 

After about 10 minutes and some very minor scrubbing, it looks like they'll clean up nice.

 

 

Can't forget the shop help! My lil corgi pup, Nia.

 

 

Plan is to ball hone the engine, and install new rings.

 

To those who have done this before - Should I keep the crank in it, cover it well, and clean thoroughly, 

 

OR do I pull the crank out, hone, clean, re-assemble?

 

Are those of you re-using main bolts torquing them to spec (lbft + angle) or just a lbft value?

 

Thanks!!!

Edited May 2, 2014 by SUNNY Z

[SUNNY Z]

I found this thread on the topic of main bolts, FYI.

 

I'll be re-using them.

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1710624-oem-crankshaft-main-bolts-tty-just-little-2.html

[RebekahsZ]

What degreaser are you using? I expected you to run it just as it came out of the yard. Chicken!

[SUNNY Z]

What degreaser are you using? I expected you to run it just as it came out of the yard. Chicken!

 

Well if it were a JY engine, I would have!!!!

 

This came from a dealer with a noise. they replaced it for a bad lifter, but not before they disassembled the entire bottom end. Also, its been sitting for a couple years and had accumulated a lot of dust, and unfortunately some rust in the cylinders.

 

I ended up taking the crank out, and honing the cylinders.  They all cleaned up nicely except the #8, which had a slight amount of surface rust where some moisture had sat next to the piston.

 

Yes, I labeled everything, and its all laid out nice and neat.  

 

Here's the pics of the cylinder in question

 

You can see the spot at the end of my finger, missing the crosshatching...

 

 

Again... about halfwa down the cylinder wall .

 

Now my question is: do I just put the stock rings back in it, opening them up to say .028"?

 

OR do I spend the time to put the new sealed power rings in, and just hope that the #8 heals itself?

 

FYI it kinda drags when you run a fingernail over it.

 

Haaaalp

[mapleridge]

Great thread. signed up just so I could follow it. There is a 75 280z for sale locally and I also pulled an lm7 and t56 from the yard a few weeks back. Just looking for a project car. These look like they would be perfect. Since I can't afford a 996 porsche, this might have to do.

 

Also, why not bore and stroke it in addition to the turbo?

Edited May 3, 2014 by mapleridge

[SUNNY Z]

 

 

Also, why not bore and stroke it in addition to the turbo?

 

Hahaha. Because I don't have another $5K to throw at it! And, the stock bottom end will hold 700rwhp all day.

[ECUAdam]

Run it Sunny z. Gap those rings and hone it and let it be. I had 3 cylinders that looked worse and I just honed it with the pistons still in the block and it dosent smoke at all. You are fine.

[SUNNY Z]

Made a good bit of progress on the engine yesterday.

 

Cleaning cleaning cleaning

 

 

Before prepping the gasket surfaces

 

 

Washing the ol girl in the driveway!

 

 

Everything back together, ready for paint

 

 

Primed and painted......Because Chevys are Orange!!!!!

 

Edited May 7, 2014 by SUNNY Z

[SUNNY Z]

I finished lapping the valves last night, and washed them down to prepare for assembly.

 

Here they are after installing the new BTR Platinum springs

 

 

Excuse the bench, it was getting a bit deep by this point!!!

 

Also, my 'shaft showed back up from DSS (new yoke and shorter for magnum t56).

 

 

I ordered a Trick Flow timing chain dampener. My LS2 chain is a bit sloppy for my liking. This is the kit that allows use on the blocks that arent drilled for a dampener. ... I'll post it up when it comes in.

[SUNNY Z]

Few more things to wash and I'll have the top end put together.  Forgot about my IAT sensor, so I'll be either putting that in the charge pipe or the intake - TBD.

 

[torqen2k1]

Looks good... keep up the great job.

[RebekahsZ]

You look like a gangster shooting that hose. "Gimme all yo money, sucka!"

[SUNNY Z]

I was able to get the new timing chain tensioner on, and finish assembly of the engine.

 

 

I finished the plumbing on the fuel tank and got the pumps grounded.

 

 

I also had to cut out the floor, and make a new section for seat clearance and weld it in.

 

 

I was acually surprised with myself how well it came out lol.

 

I'm also about 80% done with the sliders for the drivers seat.  I would have finished them, but the gf came outside made me make room in the garage for the cars. .... Something about a "tornado" and "1 inch Hail". 

[torqen2k1]

Are you a welder/fabricator by trade? Cause you do a kick ass job on the fab work.

[SUNNY Z]

Are you a welder/fabricator by trade? Cause you do a kick ass job on the fab work.

 

No sir, I'm just a hobbyist.  I'm a manufacturing engineer by day. Think; more, faster, with less.

 

I do appreciate the kind words though. I take a large amount of pride in my work.  I would also like to point out to anyone reading this thread that you don't have to be a mechanic or a fabricator to do this stuff.  There is so much information out there that you can access, its unreal.  Thats one of the reasons I try to be thorough with my write-ups. Paying it forward, ya know?

[SUNNY Z]

Finished the drivers seat mounts last night. I only have about 5" of movement with the sliders due to some mounting limitations, but it will be plenty to accommodate the different driving I do.

 

The shoulder bolsters are pretty large on this seat, but I find it very comfortable.  The outer bolster is about 1/2" from the door panel when its shut.

 

Also, there is a surprising amount of room for door bars, traditional, or a horizontal.

 

 

FWIW, I mounted it with 15 Degrees of layback - just where I found it comfortable. 

 

 

[Mikey303LSZ]

I agree. Nice job with the fab work. I appreciate the photos - Helps me with my project and new ideas. I just need to lower my takt time, improve the rolling throughput yield and poka-yoke my project. Might be time for a DAMAIC approach.

[SUNNY Z]

Started mounting the passengers seat.  I have the plates welded to the floor with bolt holes, so the outside legs are in position. The inside mounts will be a little more tricky.

 

 

 

This is about where the shoulder bolster will end up. I'd like to have about 1/2" when its final mounted to keep from wearing it out. Don't mind the baller / badass skull lock pulls.

 

 

Here are the mounts. I used these brackets from speedway motors ($5 ea), with a reducer nylon bushing from 1/2" to 3/8" which is pretty close to the 8mm bolts.  Also, true to form all the pretty welds will never be seen!

 

 

 

Vice grips are temporary. Disappointing, I know.

[SUNNY Z]

I agree. Nice job with the fab work. I appreciate the photos - Helps me with my project and new ideas. I just need to lower my takt time, improve the rolling throughput yield and poka-yoke my project. Might be time for a DAMAIC approach.

 

Now you're speaking my language! Maybe we can sit down and do some Ishikawa diagrams over a beer!  This might help us drive to root cause, showing the need to 5S, and thus increase our MTBF and decrease our MTTR!

Edited May 14, 2014 by SUNNY Z