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running rich and misfiring?!


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     Hey guys im new to hybridz and i need of soon answers. I have a 76 280z and recently got it started and it ides where it it needs to but it runs rich and sounds like it is not running on all cylinders. It studders a bit when i rev it and blows black smoke when reved and white as it idles as well. I cleaned all the injector type conections already and replaced the rubber on injectors. and  replaced spark plugs and wires, new oil and filter as well. checked the comprestion too 145 to 150 on all cylinders. spark is good but spark plugs are black already after a couple of starts. car starts right away and stays running but just runs to rich. and cant figure it out. And what should the resistance be for the thermotime and fuel mix be. thanks really need to get this fixed.

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yeah ive looked around and done alot of research but have not got anyware lol. ive tried taking the cold start off no change also AS and AR no change. and as far as idle it stays at 800rpm right from start all the way to warm no change in rpm at idle just sounds like its misfiring and theres plenty of black smoke when u rev it. i also took it around the block for the first time today and it starts boging and sputering at higher rpms. going to check the fuel presure tomorrow. but what should the cold start and fuel mix valve read when working corectly.

                  

                         thanks again cant wait to get it running right.

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You should search and Download the FSM and fuel injection guide. all the info is in there.  That being said, it sounds like a vacuum leak to me.  Just unplug the CS injector after it's warmed up and see how it's running.

 

As I said, DL the FSM it's free on the net. Look at XenonS30.com,  Again It sounds like a vacuum leak..  It's possible it could be your Temp sensor though, since if it's reading way off the ecu could be telling it to dump extra fuel. A temp sensor is cheap. But the FSM has the test procedures in it so start there!

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hey there is two white bullet female connectors right at the end of the wire harness dont know what for. also i did the harness check for resistance and voltage everything worked but the first to tests witch r idle throttle switch showed nothing as well as full throttle switch and cold start system circuit. it says after u disconnected the starter solinoid connect volt meter to pin 21 and a ground and turn the key to start and hold it and it should read little to no voltage witch it did and after no more then 15 secs it should read battery volts and i held it for more than 30 secs and it never showed battery volts.          ?    what to do next also i have a extra ecu should i try that too.

                         Thanks.

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hey there is two white bullet female connectors right at the end of the wire harness dont know what for. also i did the harness check for resistance and voltage everything worked but the first to tests witch r idle throttle switch showed nothing as well as full throttle switch and cold start system circuit. it says after u disconnected the starter solinoid connect volt meter to pin 21 and a ground and turn the key to start and hold it and it should read little to no voltage witch it did and after no more then 15 secs it should read battery volts and i held it for more than 30 secs and it never showed battery volts.          ?    what to do next also i have a extra ecu should i try that too.

                         Thanks.

 

You don't need an extra ECU , however, if you have it on hand then it worth a try. I doubt the problem from the ECU. I did open up my ECU back then and basically test almost the entire circuit in there. There is nothing wrong and nothing in there. I suggest you test all pin from ECU and know which sensor bad or good and if the FI system is good. Test procedure is in the link I gave you up there. The value should be in within of the printed values. Good luck.

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Put the AFM back and move the flap inside with key on. You should hear pump humming  noise, that is one way, the other way is still test the pin from ECU. You sure didn't break it when trying to open the AFM up??? BTW, saw a guy in part for sale section have some AFM for sale, I am not sure it is for NA or turbo.. You can take a look. GL' 

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hey i would like to thank everyone for their help i think i have found out the main prob it was the AFM the weight balance thing that moves under the cover was broke off and causing it too not be able for the flap to move freely, now it sounds so much better and no black smoke and the plugs have cleaned all up. But cylinder num 1 plug was a little damp not sure why?. anyways thanks again.

 

                                     R.I.P. PAUL WALKER   FAST AND FURIOUS FOREVER!!!!!

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