The_Rookie Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 I sprayed this pistons down with somd WD-40 and removed the radiator to move my crankshaft. Was a little stiff at first and had to pop it but it was a good pop because my pistons now move. STILL HAVEN'T CRANKED THOUGH. I now have to put my new clutch in. Btw, should there be anymore liquids I should be worried about? Like I see all these plastic containers but they're all empty and I don't know if I should put new fluids in or even what type of fluids I should put it in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Someone help a brotha out and fill me in on anything I should be worried about on an l28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Check the Maintenance chapter of the Owner's Manual for the various plastic containers- http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html And WD-40 is not a very good lubricant. Use motor oil, since it's a motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Check the Maintenance chapter of the Owner's Manual for the various plastic containers- http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html And WD-40 is not a very good lubricant. Use motor oil, since it's a motor Right, and also this is why I said to change the oil prior to trying to start the motor. WD-40 is water displacement #40, it's a penetrating oil. We sprayed it in the cylinders to penetrate around the rings and help to break them loose, being that the engine had sat unused for so long. a little corrosion would not have been a big deal, but We said to listen closely while turning the engine over manually for any grinding noise to help us diagnose the condition of the engine. How he described it, Turning with a little pop is exactly what I would have expected. Leaving the DW-40 in the engine could dilute and mess up the engine oil (not to mention the existing oil is 12 years old). I would guess he's in good shape so far as the engine itself mechanically at this point. Next will be to look at the cam, look at the fluid levels and after changing the oil he can try to crank it over using the starter. If that works, then it's time to do a compression test and see what condition the engine is really in. Again too, Don't be cheap and change the engine oil AGAIN after running for 15/20 min or so, since any rust should break loose and filter into the oil once the engine is running, especially after it's heated up. the Filter will catch a lot, but not all, and rust can be like sandpaper in an engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Depends what sort of pop it was... "Like I see all these plastic containers but they're all empty and I don't know if I should put new fluids in or even what type of fluids I should put it in them." I don't know if that was a joke, but if not then you really need to do some reading before doing anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 It was the pop of destiny, and yeah I didn't know what one of them was but it's the one for the windshield wipers I figured it out. Only reason I was confused is because it wasn't connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 So I got it to crank and start up but there's no fuel getting to the engine. The only way it stayed on was with constant spray of starter fluid, there is current getting to the fuel pump but it's not turning on. What could it be? Should I get a new fuel pump? Where and which fuel pump should I get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 there's no fuel getting to the engine. There probably is but it's just not injecting from the injectors. Loosen a hose clamp on the fuel system after cranking for a little while and see if anything squirts out. Have a rag handy and no open flames or lit cigarettes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 No fuel getting through the lines. Fuel pump isn't on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Of course, you've checked for power at the pump and know that it only has power when the engine is running or the key is at Start. Then jumped power to the pump just to be sure you're not wasting your time. If so, time for a new pump. Several options out there, many opinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Well, what's good and not overpriced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 It's awesome the engine runs w/ fluid, that says everything else is still in good shape. DON'T forget to Change the oil!! First lets test if it's your rail. Pull loose the fuel line at the rail BEFORE the filter and connect a hose into a gas can. Have a helper turn the key and see if the pump pumps for a short time. If nothing then maybe it's the pump. You can find a stock pump and replace it with a used for cheap. We can provide a lot of sources, the least of which is Ebay. Looking further you need to be sure if the condition of your fuel lines. Take loose both ends, and blow compressed air from back to front and see if the lines flow. if they do then great. Next you'll need to look at the pump. Pull it out and rebuild it if you dare it's not too hard. Probably easier to replace. You can test it though by connecting 12V to the leads and see if it hums. After that, you'll need to see what condition your tank and lines there are in. There's a filter before the pump too, so try changing that too. But take off the gas cap and see if you can blow compressed air in through the fuel line, or the return line. If so then it's probably the filters or the pump. Lets hope you're lucky. Don't use that old gas in anything you don't want to run crappy. You can add a gallon at a time to a new tank of gas and it should be fine, but I wouldn't just try to run it alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Well the tank is clean and I know this because I just cleaned it myself spotless. The problem should be the pump because we put a power source to it and no sound. So I already found an OEM replacement not too far from me for $50 (includes fuel pump, damper, and bracket) so I'ma go ahead and try that then if not I'll get my fuel lines cleaned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Sure try the new pump.. Was there liquid gas in the lines when you pulled off the old pump? Hopefully so... don't forget to change the filters. You don't know what crap it sucked up before being parked too. GJ on your cleaning the tank yourself... You might look at puling that pump apart. it's not too hard to fix, just careful with the gaskets. Worst case you have to spend the $50 on the replacement. Pulling it apart you get to learn... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Haven't taken off the old pump yet, should I worry about all the gas leaking out or just a little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morbias Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Drain the tank first, you will want to do that anyway as all the gas in there is probably too old to be useful! There is a drain plug in the center of the underside of the tank - check what comes out too, there might be sludge and rust in which case you might need to swap the tank out for a known good one, or recondition it if it's in decent shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Tank is clean, pump is good, fuel lines are all leaking all across the injectors and fuel rails. Working on replacing them now but the screws for the injectors are so tought they won't budge a bit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Also how can I bleed the lines? The car has no fluids in the master cylinder and the clutch and brake pedal just go straight in with no resistance whatsoever. What could be the problem? Did I really need to order a new clutch kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 What could be the problem? Did I really need to order a new clutch kit? Blown seals in the various cylinders and calipers would cause fluid leakage. No fluid, no pressure. It's hydraulics. A clutch kit will have nothing at all to do with blown seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Rookie Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Dang. So now it's time forrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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