mtnickel Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 (edited) NOTE: Mods, this could be moved to Fuel Delivery. Hi guys, Yet another thread, but I feel it's useful to the community for both RB users and fuel injection alike. Does anyone have any insight on what the best fuel tank baffling would include? I know trap doors are recommended, but I'm more doing this on a budget. So far I rinsed my fuel tank 3 times with soapy water. I then cut it open with a jig-saw underneith. I used cutting oil and made sure to go slowly as not to create enough heat cause sparks. I was pleasantly surprised to see "Alied Radiator 6/94" written on top side. So looks like it had been given a solid cleaning and red-coat on the inside. The exterior was also covered in a thick paint job though it was peeling in many spots. While cleaning the tank though I did notice something odd. When flipping it and turning it to rinse all areas I noticed the stream coming out of the return line was quite weak compared to the feed line (even though they were the same size). From blowing in it as well it seemed quite restrictive. A little investigative work revealed that the outlet had been repaired or something and I believe a large amount of Braze was left in the tube. I heated it up and pulled it out once the solder melted. I replaced that with a 5/16" brake line which should suffice just fine. I ran it long enough to feed back to exactly where the pickup is: I had terrible luck getting the solder to stick no matter how much i cleaned the area or used flux, etc. No fun. I ended up cleaning one final time and just JB welding it in. The flange is 1" deep so I'm not too concerned about strength or seal.Anyways, onto the discussion of tank baffling. I'm looking at baffling the pickup and return. I got this idea from a fellow member Xander. Here's what he did: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115077-280z-fuel-tank-vs-surge-tank-for-efirb-swap/?do=findComment&comment=1078218 Basically a box with an L entrance. I'm not convinced the L provides optimal fuel containment. Aeromotive typically recommends a box with just 2 - 3/8" holes drilled into it. The L shape is beneficial because once it hits a point it will keep all it's fuel. The small hole design is good in that the level will be higher but will drain down over time. Not sure how long of a corner we are talking or how long it will take for fuel to drain out the 3/8" hole. Consider the following comparison.... The L design would probably do better for fuel heat soak as well. Anyone have any thoughts on the best style of baffle? The baffle will simply be welded to the square that was cut out and the the square welded back in the tank. Edited February 26, 2014 by mtnickel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 From all my research, a true swirl pot may be the best solution. With the return just dangling into the pot there could be some splashing/turbulence. I'm going to see if I can somehow replicate an oem swirl pot such as this: The venturi inlet will be the most difficult part, but I see it as doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 A little late now that you've already cut a hole in the tank, but this looks like it could be a fairly simple solution: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/stealth-fuel-systems/18689-phantom-200-stealth-fuel-system/ 18689 - PHANTOM 200 STEALTH FUEL SYSTEM SKU: 18689 Considering a switch to EFI or swapping in that late model motor? What has recently become the hottest trend in hot rodding has been plagued by fuel delivery. The question is always, what do I do for a tank? Up until now, it’s been one of three options. Weld in a sump to your tank, go with a fuel cell or pay for a custom tank. Well, not any more. Aeromotive’s Phantom Fuel System gives you the option to put a high performance fuel pump inside virtually any fuel tank, including your factory tank.Simply cut a hole in you tank. Measure the depth. Cut you pump hanger bracket to length and your baffle / basket foam. Insert the baffle. Install the retainer ring and gasket. Bolt your pump and hanger down. That’s it. Now you have a fuel pump inside your factory tank capable of supporting big horsepower EFI or Carbureted and its whisper quiet.No more welding sumps or using up trunk space with fuel cells. No more hot fuel handling issues like vapor-lock and no more fuel slosh. The Phantom system’s internal baffle / basket controls fuel slosh and keeps the fuel pump submerged in fuel, even at low fuel levels and in aggressive driving. The best part about this whole system… its completely universal. This system will fit virtually any tank from 5.5†deep to 11†deep, plastic, steel, aluminum, corrugated or smooth. One system that gives you everything you need to fuel your ride. Its serious performance you will never know is there!Patent PendingFeatures and Specifications:• 200 lph high performance fuel pump• Supports up to• 550 HP EFI naturally aspirated• 425 HP EFI forced air induction• 750 HP Carbureted naturally aspirated• 550 HP Carbureted forced air induction• Black anodized hanger assembly• (3) ORB-06 Ports – Supply, Return, Vent• Fuel resistant baffle / basket (Includes: Foam and Bladder)• Universal high flow pre-pump filter• Modular design can be cut to height to fit almost any fuel tank• EFI or Carbureted• Turbine pump mechanism increases durability.• Must be used with a return style system• In-tank use only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 A little late now that you've already cut a hole in the tank, but this looks like it could be a fairly simple solution: http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/stealth-fuel-systems/18689-phantom-200-stealth-fuel-system/ I already have an external walbro 255 and am keeping myself to the smallest budget possible. I know there are plenty of solutions to buy but was just looking to create some discussion on what a DIY'er could do with just a little sheet metal and welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helghast7 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Thanks Nigel, you just saved me a heap of stress and headaches figuring out how I wanted to tackle this part of my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 I think I've come up with a final design: Found this on a new zealand site. It's for a toyota all-trac (which is a celica 4wd I believe). Anyways, I like the overall design. The labyrinth entry provides good cornering/accel resistance, but they modify it with a roughly 1" block at the entrance that has only a small hole entrance. This stops the pot from emptying out the highest point (as was shown in my initial pictures). It will be a street car first and foremost, so 99% of the time it's a non-issue anyways. But I believe if and when I get into Autocrossing, it should have decent fuel surge protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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