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need up on building up my turbo


turbobluestreak

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I need to drop about 3seconds what can I do to drop them I'm not talking about the turbo and intercooler and exhaust stuff I'm asking what to port,new cam or stock, raise compression or not. This is what I'm refering to.

You need to put the conventional NA thinking out of your mind. The turbo, I/C, exhaust, the stuff you bolt on, is what will make you the HP you need. If your car weighs in at 3,000 or a little less, you need 300rwhp to go 12.90 @ 110 and you do not need a cam, porting or compression to do that. MOF, you do not have to take off the valve cover. Hard to tell exactly what you actually have from your sig, but if you have a t3/t04 and Merkur injs, then, (REPEAT), get rid of the Conquest I/C for something better, get a free-flowing exhaust, upgraded fuel pump, and sticky tires. Use high-grade gasoline and start turning the boost up and TUNE, TUNE, TUNE.

 

You have a long way to go before you need the stuff you are asking about and you cannot run with them w/o doing what I am telling you anyway.

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I'm wanting to build up my car but I don't want to get an sds or anything like that I am running 84 ECCS. What should I do to get into the high 12's with my car by spring so I need to drop about 3seconds what can I do to drop them I'm not talking about the turbo and intercooler and exhaust stuff I'm asking what to port,new cam or stock, raise compression or not. This is what I'm refering to.

 

tbs

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Guest Zcarsmakemyheadhurt

If your running the 84 computer I assume you are also useing the AFM this isn't the aproch I usually take but its what you have done, so let me tell you what I would do. First of fuel injection controll and programablility is just about everything. Using the 84 ECM and bigger injectors could work out if your O2 sensor is working correctly and the computer is adjusting to the rich fuel mixture, but only to a extent. I use a HKS AFR on my brothers 88 turbo 300 and that lets you adjust the fuel curve 50% +/- on a spacific rpm. You can't index boost or vacume like a stand alone but its something and that better than nothing. Once you have the fuel mixture on target you could benifit from a better intercooler and what not like Scotti said but lets say your gonna leave well enough alone and get into the head. I would port the intake fully then match port the cylinder head do these things to ensure you have a smoth air flow from the throttle body to the intake flowing threw the valves. If you go with a cam and stock ECM that is already struggling with big injectors your gonna have a tunning disaster. Is your car fast now? Sounds like it might be a little disappointing if you need to drop 3seconds to hit the twelves. Give me a call maybe we could figure something out.Good Luck.

 

Alex Costa

Precision Machined Engines

1-800-665-0405

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Alex is correct. The Z31 ECUs will not tolerate larger injectors like the 280ZXT ECU. The flapper curve can be adjusted, at the expense of intake restriction. The MAF hot wire on the Z31 cannot be adjusted to compensate for larger injectors. The computer cannot even come close to compensating larger injectors, as the O2 sensor is used only to trim the fuel while cruising, and will have ZERO effect on idle and WOT conditions.

 

I will keep you up to date on my quest for larger injectors with a Z31 ECU. Currently I am going to hack up an MAF and install the sensor element in a 3.5" mandrel bent pipe, in combination with the 370cc injectors. I will be using a custom fuel rail and an adjustable FPR (I may need to drop below the base pressure of 36 psi to make fine tuning adjustments). The air measured in the bigger pipe will be 40% less than the actual air, and the fuel flowed by the ECU will be 40% more fuel actually delivered. This will get me in the ballpark, and I will perform all fuel ratio tuning with a wideband O2 sensor and fuel pressure adjustments.

 

If anyone has any comments or questions, cough it up.

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