B5BiTurbo Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Ok thanks for the input! Maybe it's just terminology that was throwing me for a loop. For some reason I thought the "ignition relay" was just for my starter but I guess it makes more sense for it to be for your spark, going by the fact the want switched power in it all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 The wiring aint to bad once you find the right wires, you should be able to utilize most of the stock stuff to make it easier. There are wires near the gas tank from the factory for an electric fuel pump, these come together inside the car near the original fuse panel. Mine had another inline fuse on the wire and nicely had a tag on it labeling it. The stock electric system has the battery go to the starter, then a wire off the starter goes to the main wiring harness for the car. Just hook your battery to the new starter along with the wire that powers the cars original harness (just like stock did it). Also hook up the original wire from the key to the starter to make the car crank (basically just wire everything to the new starter same as it was with the original starter. This will give you power to you car and normally functionality. Now all your left to do is power your engine. For this you need a wire that is always hot to tie to the always hot wire for the ECU (I just ran a wire off the alternator since I put my ECU close to it). You now also need a wire which is KEY HOT, this is where things get a little trickier. You will have many KEY HOT wires but most(maybe even all) will lose power on cranking, this won't work. Good news is that there is a wire that gets 12v during cranking, and it happens to be near a wire that is KEY HOT which when tied together give you what you want. These wires are the wires going to the stock spark coil, use a multimeter to find them. I set up my fuse block like so: -12V hot wire from alternator to fuse block -one of those fuse block connections to the ECU hot connection -power from fuse block to any needed relays -tied the coil plug wires together like stated above and hooked them as the trigger for a relay, use this relay's output to power your engine wiring harness's KEY HOT wires -placed a relay inside the car with output to the wires for the fuel pump, fed the relay's 12v hot side off of a 12v hot wire from the conveniently nearby fuse panel, ran the fuel pump signal from ECU to the relay as well to operate it -add another relay for each electric fan you have, power the relay off the fuse block, use ECU fan pin as the relay's ground Message me if you have any questions, I had a 73 like you do so everything should be the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 That explanation deserves a "sticky." We kinda need a sub-forum under Gen III called Wiring the Gen III. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B5BiTurbo Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Well everything is wired up I believe. (Besides gauges). I'm ready to fill everything with oil and try to start it. Still need to make a gas pedal bracket and an intake and MAF housing, but deal with that later Does anyone have an experience starting a crate engine for the first time? I've heard I need to get a tool to prime the system. Then other people say to just fill it with oil and start it normally. I was worried for the time it's gonna run with no oil but a few other people have had no issues. Just looking for opinions. Thanks again everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 (edited) Mine had not been started in over 3 years after an unknown period of inactivitiy in the junk yard. I put oil in it and cranked it. It started on the second turn of the key and hasn't let me down since. I think perhaps I didn't let the fuel pump fully prime, or it might have started on the first turn of the key! Now, I didn't rev it up or try to do any throttle blipping on the first start, I just ran it for a few seconds then went looking for leaks. Edited June 29, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted June 30, 2015 Share Posted June 30, 2015 A crate engine should have assembly lube in the bearings etc.. so you should be ok to start it one you have added fluids. It's always better to prime it but you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Well everything is wired up I believe. (Besides gauges). I'm ready to fill everything with oil and try to start it. Still need to make a gas pedal bracket and an intake and MAF housing, but deal with that later Does anyone have an experience starting a crate engine for the first time? I've heard I need to get a tool to prime the system. Then other people say to just fill it with oil and start it normally. I was worried for the time it's gonna run with no oil but a few other people have had no issues. Just looking for opinions. Thanks again everyone. The SAFEST way is to pre-lube the engine with an external pressurized oil tank. That way you are sure there is adequate lubrication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B5BiTurbo Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Finally got the car started for the first time. Things seemed fine other than burning off the header paint and other fresh paint. Still need to make an intake and wire my fans but other than that hopefully on the road soon! Here's a few pictures of the exhaust tacked together, hopefully get it done in the morning. Managed to get the diffuser to fit, and using the Volkswagen Phaeton exhaust tips it all seemed to work out pretty well. Putting the exhaust under the diffuser obviously kills the point of it in the first place, but then again a diffuser is kinda pointless without the entire bottom of the car designed for it. Either way I thought it turned out pretty good for just spare parts I had laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B5BiTurbo Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 How are you guys plumbing your coolant crossover line? Are you putting it through the water pump? Or return on the rad? Just curious to see what you guys are doing and what fittings/hoses you're using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 I'm going to the top of the radiator with mine giving it a better chance to push all the air out instead of going down towards the water pump. I will be using stainless braided lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B5BiTurbo Posted August 13, 2015 Author Share Posted August 13, 2015 Is yours finished alain? I'd like to see right where your putting it in your rad. What kind of fitting are you welding in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alainburon Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Unfortunately mine is not done yet but my plan is to have the radiator made with a AN4 fitting coming out of the top in order to run my line to it. I believe JTR sell a piece that goes in your top radiator hose where you can connect the cross over line and bleed it. Here is a picture of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crapforum Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 I used this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLUE-38MM-WATER-RADIATOR-HOSE-JOINT-COUPLER-ADAPTER-PIPE-FOR-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-D-/190848534786?hash=item2c6f758902&vxp=mtr Same idea, real cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey303LSZ Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Same as ^^^^. Works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B5BiTurbo Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 Hey guys, finally starting to work on the car again as it warms up a bit up here. Time to buy a catch can... Can some of you guys post your catch can setups and hose routing. Looking for ideas. Feels good to be back at it! Oh and one more quick question about fuel cell setups. My vents for my cell run down through the floor but it comes out fault close to the exhaust. It this something I should worry about? Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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