crapforum

Stock truck manifolds will fit, you need to chop/grind the normal flanges that are triangular, they will hit the frame. Once you do that they clear but don't have the mounting bolts. So you can weld the stock downpipe to them and then weld a flange to that.

What do you mean exactly? The factory tune is a blend of both. The MAF will kick on at 4000RPM + and the speed density will handle everything below. Even when operating in MAF only mode the SD tables will be utilized in calculations. The MAF is in general not as accurate at low speeds hence why the factory does this, but a bunch of lazy "tuner shops" will default the tune to MAF only mode since all they have to do is modify the MAF airflow vs frequency table to get it to run proper air fuel ratio.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201069725867?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT This is the one I got. It, like the Champion counterpart, come with a odd metric fitting for the tranny cooler that does not exist in the real world. I cut it off an welded an aluminum AN -6 bung on there. Otherwise its awesome, fit is perfect, cooling is amazing, my cooling fan hardly ever cuts on. My 240z has the stock radiator and big electric fan, which is barely adequate. On the real hot days when your not moving much the system can't keep up and can overheat, plus the fan is on all the time. I recommend this fan: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-620-118. It is the popular 2 speed Ford fan that moves a shit ton of air, shroud fits the radiator very well, and is very cheap.

This may help you : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Rear-Clip-Body-Section-70-73-/152157741791?hash=item236d4ee2df:g:SqsAAOSwEjFXfWvI&vxp=mtr

I was going to get the rear AZC setup to match but like I said, need to swap my rearend first (diff). As soon as the right 8.8 pops up in the junkyard I am grabbing it and fabbing some mounts. Will almost certainly use a hub from some other vehicle, so any of these kits that were meant for the rear for a Z car will not work. Believe me I know all about brake bias, had a Camaro that the exhaust come loose, beat the rear brake line that goes over the axle and puncture it. Found this out when it was a rainy day... cost me a new wheel in the end.

I just replaced my stock front brakes with the Arizona Z car kit, the standard one not the 6 piston one. Wanted to just say the fit is great, the look is great, and most importantly the stopping power is great. I swapped in a Wilwood 1" master while I was at it, not sure what people are talking about having hard pedals and wanting bigger brake boosters or anything. The brakes pedal feels great with this combo and the stock 240z booster. Took about a day driving in for everything to brake in after initial install, but damn these things lock the front tires so easily! To those who say stock Z brakes are fine, no, just no, try doing a 100mph to 0 zero stop and tell me they are fine. Now to sort out my rear end so I can upgrade those drums. Had to pick up some new wheels too to fit the brakes, running rota rb 16x7 +4 with 225-50-16s. Had passenger side barely rubbing the lower front fender at certain steering angles, some light massaging cleared that up.

I don't think you can change username, but yes these things can be knocked out pretty quick with enough determination (your going to need a lot of it) and know how. Knowing the wiring helps a lot, not really much else that can be done wrong.

Do you mean drive by wire? If it were drive by cable you could use the stock one

The issue with the cx kit is the mount. It slopes backwards and will hit the compressor with a low mount design. Maybe if there is a snubby compressor it will work, but definately not with the truck compressor. Maybe if you could get a crank pulley with an extra serpentine row further out it could allow you to space the compressor forward enough.

My R180 and stock crappy axle u joint things have been surviving my 400whp motor. I never have dumped the clutch, and I roll into the throttle from a stand still. Tires will start to spin if I give it to much gas to soon anyway so I'm not going any slower. I think so long as you don't want to drag race you can get by on anything.

If anyone wanted some more details: Exhaust is stock truck manifolds, with flanges cut off and downpipe welded to them. Dual 2.5" into 3" out the back External fuel pump with corvette regulator Stock 280z tranny crossmember drilled to bolt to 4l60e (t56 has same mount spacing) and then ears made and welded to tranny tunnel to fasten it Ebay knock off Champion radiator with tranny cooler LS3, cam, springs, oil pan, pushrods, valley cover Stock TBSS style intake and manifold Stock trailblazer shifter Modified stock wiring harness. Shortened Aluminum Trailblazer driveshaft Car drives well, no vibrations, quite fast. Dealing with a shift flare between 2-3 on WOT, maybe overfilling tranny a little will solve it, maybe need a new servo or something. Bumping up the shift pressure 5% for the 2-3 shift seemed to help a little --update* Tranny fluid was low, dipstick kept reading in the middle of the cold mark, kept adding more and more fluid, kept reading the same. Ended up having to add 5 more quarts to get it to move higher and now it shifts fine. 9 quarts in total added. Front Caliper is dragging, have AZC kit coming for my 240z, will then put my old 240z fronts on here. About to grab some speedhut gauges for it, then will focus on mating the trailblazer AC components to the Datsun ones. Passes the 10 foot test. Eventually will get around to modifying the hood to fit. Also have an air dam for the front of it.

Whats the problem with a mechanical pump? Clearance issues? Mechanical pumps can easily support big horsepower..

You'd honestly be better off buying the ls3 crate motor, t56 magnum, and a full swap kit like cxracing and pay someone the labor. You'll get much more power, and strength at about the same cost. Plus it would be brand new... Also those guys look like a piece of crap, they say the LS1 "produces 405hp stock!", which is a complete lie. If they bs on something that simple they are going to bs on a lot of other things. Stock LS3 components will outperform pretty much any aftermarket LS1 upgrade.

Done.

Is that 12k for parts and labor? Or just labor? Id expect you to spend at least 12k in parts for an LS3 swap.

Damn that really sucks man. Perhaps time to try out the miata, 944, or bmw ls swap scene? I know that over here its impossible to find a cheap 240z anymore, even the 280z are going up up up in price.

So things changed direction and I decided to weld in some custom mounts. Wanted to keep the stock AC compressor since when looking for one that fits my 240z LY6 swap has proven to be very pricey. I used biscuit style mounts and welded them to the frame rail, getting it as low and far back as I could. The motor is offset about 1/4" to the passenger side for a little better weight distribution. I had rebuilt the heads and swapped in an ls3 cam and valvetrain as well as an ls3 oil pan. If anyone was wondering the 07 Trailblazer had the AC compressor mount to the oil pan but luckily I had the AC compressor and mount from my LY6 handy (07 Silverado) and that bolts to the engine block. Also I have a decent bit of pan hanging below the crossmember, will try to measure it. But to the guy saying a Cadillac pan fits flush, f off, stop spreading lies. My F-Body pan is flush on my 240z and that pan is like an inch shallower than the Cadillac. In the process of working out that tranny crossmember. Think I will try to make a cradle type mount similar to what CX Racing did. Also was bummed that I cant use the CX racing headers (or so it seems). Eyeing it up on my 240z it hugs very close to the bellhousing and front of the tranny on the t56/TR6060, the 4l60e seems a bit fatter in these areas and then the tranny pan so seems it wont work. Will probably modify the stock exhaust manifolds.

Uhhhh wiring diagram on a SBC? There is only a ground to the block, hot to the starter, and then a trigger from the key to the starter.......

Yep wiring it to the ECU is easy, but make sure your ECU allows it. For my 07 LY6 ECU with 6l90e there is a bug in HPTuners where the speed always reads 158mph, even when you hook up the VSS and change the settings for it in the tune. I just shove it into reverse with a little more muslce, isn't all that hard honestly. On another t56 I had I wired it to a button in the shifter, but the button wires eventually snapped. I like the idea of hooking it into the e-brake

You can use the 4.5" gauges too if you remove the trim ring http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/121732-cx-racing-kit-ly6-tr6060-build/page-3?hl=tr6060 I think it looks better that way. And yes use the search function noob.

Yeah I remember the days when people were selling all the top shelf nascar used parts for sb2 for pennies, wish I had money back then to buy them, but I was like 15 lol. Cost of my swap: $1500 -cx racing swap kit(full stainless exhaust, motor mounts and tranny mounts), they gave me a little discount. -$1500 - sold old motor and trans -$120 - sold old shifter and a relay $2200 - Ly6 with 6l90e, all the wiring, pedal, etc -$1300 - sold 6l90e $2500 - TR6060 with driveshaft, clutch, flywheel, everything (wasnt able to use its driveshaft or master cylinder though) $350 ls3 intake with injectors -$140 sold truck intake with injectors $400 - custom cam $400 - new bearing, lifters, block cleaning, gaskets,etc (only if doing full rebuild) $200 - new oil pan and pickup $400 - hptuners (optional tuning software) $125 - fuel sending unit $30 - aluminum fuel line $150 - hose fittings $275 -driveshaft (cheaper for non TR6060) $130 - driveshaft adapter (only needed for tr6060) $20 - 3 relays and some wire for the electrics (lots of spare wire comes from deleting stuff from original engine harness) $450 - new speedhut speedo and tach (can make originals work but these are some very pretty gauges) Total = $6070, and this is for a fresh rebuilt motor with 480hp, tuning software, and a top notch transmission. (Thought I was at $5k before) For my upcoming swap I'm using an auto, and like I mentioned before you can use your manual tranny still. I can reuse the extra fuel line and relays and tune it for free this time plus chop off about $2800 in tranny related costs, plus I'm not tearing the motor all the way down or using a custom cam (previous motor was built with the intention of turbocharging). Should be right at the $3k mark.

Wiring can be done with ~$20 worth of wires and relays and an evening with a wiring diagram from lt1swap.com. You can transfer the 4 speed over to the ls motor with a different flywheel (there are videos out there, i believe it was a jeep flywheel or something) and a custom bell housing. I think their are a couple truck motors with an elongated crankshaft, that is the only thing to pay attention to for the tranny swap. Otherwise fuel system is yes some work, but honestly not bad and a small price to pay to get EFI. Just run a return-less system and run a single line to the motor, the new fuel sending units have the regulator and all the tricky bits built into them. One added expense will be the tune for it, but that can be done by mail in tuners for ~$150. It took me a month to do my entire swap while working a full time job. I had a 350 SBC built to the max before I went LS, the LS was cheaper,had more hp ,durability, fuel mileage, everything. IMO any money spent on a SBC is money wasted that could and will eventually (SBC don't last to long) be put towards something much much better.

SBC is dead, avoid it at all costs. Get any LS motor you can find, the main difference is aluminum or iron block, car or truck. Truck motors require a new oil pan and intake to fit in the car so that's about $400 added costs over the car motor. Look here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LS_based_GM_small-block_engine DOD engines require more money to swap the cam out. A 5.3 with an ls2,ls3,ls7,ls9 cam should put you at 400hp with nothing else done to it. These cams can be bought new around $125 from Chevy.

So picked up this little red 77 280z a couple months back on the cheap. Had some electrical issues which the PO's claimed was bad ignition switch. Turned out to be some weird hotwiring they devised that of course didn't work, luckily I am an electrical engineer so it took 30 minutes and $20 to put back to original working order. A couple other minor issues kept it from driving but now it runs. So now I can enjoy the l28 engine right?! Nope v8 acquired swap commencing, if u need a l28 let me know! And for the donor Its a 2007 LH6 5.3 liter. All aluminum but with DOD, luckily I have already acquired all the stuff to delete the DOD and replace it with LS3 parts. Should produce about 400bhp when its done. Transmission will be the 4l60e auto for the wife. Going to go with CX Racing swap components, probably a different muffler this time though, the one they provide is pretty race car.

I'm trying to sell something. Been a member on this board a while with quite a few posts, but classifieds says I can't start a new thread. What gives?