dpuma8 Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 I have a professionally rebuilt L28ET with some head porting, GT3076R turbo, 550CC Injectors, and a custom grind cam sitting in my garage. What I have now in my car is just a stock L28E and Megasquirt waiting to be installed. So my plan is to Megasquirt the stock L28E to get any bugs out and have it running smoothly, then turbo the engine with my old turbo bits, and finally get a tune that could easily start the rebuilt L28ET. I am afraid of not breaking in the new motor in correctly because I probably won't have a decent tune on Megasquirt. To make the transition easier, what should I change now on my L28E so that I can make the transition easier from NA to my L28ET? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndyAndTheSea Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 (edited) If you're talking about turboing your N/A motor. (not sure if that's what you mean) Then a quick list of things you'd need/should consider are. New Clutch (hopefully 240mm clutch/flywheel) Oil Pan (you'd need to either tap your existing pan for the turbo oil return, or a turbo rear sump oil pan) Rear sump oil pan pickup (only applicable if you have decided to use a 280zx turbo oil pan) High volume oil pump (turbo oil pump) Turbo oil pump/distributor driveshaft (only applicable if you intend on using the 280zxt distributor) All of this could be easily changed out now (except the distributor driveshaft, because I believe you said you'd use the stock l28e setup to run the car for break in. The turbo dizzy shaft doesn't fit the N/A dizzy) Surely, lots of stuff is omitted. It would be helpful as well to know your head/block combination. I've done all of this, and am still in the process of my turbo build. But that should get you started at least. Edited May 15, 2014 by OldAndyAndTheSea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 The biggest thing you will have to consider is the rpm signal to MS. The L28et use an optical distributor and the L28e use a VR distributor. It's fairly simple for me to change these and set a new trigger angle, but some new users struggle with it. If you want to avoid having to reconfigure MS for the new distributor, you could put the L28et's optical assembly on your L28e. You will have to drop the oil pump and swap the shafts each time. Another option would be to go for a crank or flywheel mounted trigger wheel you could swap between motors. But since you mention MS3 and have an optical distributor on hand, you could go full sequential injection with DIY's modified trigger wheel for the optical distributor. Beyond that, you would need to do the same thing for each motor to run MS - TPS, CLT, IAT, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 The biggest thing you will have to consider is the rpm signal to MS. The L28et use an optical distributor and the L28e use a VR distributor. It's fairly simple for me to change these and set a new trigger angle, but some new users struggle with it. If you want to avoid having to reconfigure MS for the new distributor, you could put the L28et's optical assembly on your L28e. You will have to drop the oil pump and swap the shafts each time. Another option would be to go for a crank or flywheel mounted trigger wheel you could swap between motors. But since you mention MS3 and have an optical distributor on hand, you could go full sequential injection with DIY's modified trigger wheel for the optical distributor. Beyond that, you would need to do the same thing for each motor to run MS - TPS, CLT, IAT, etc. Not sure what the OP is asking, but this is sound advice from Metro. Get the MS working flawlessly on the NA first, especially idle and start. You are actually doing what I am doing now. I am installing MS 3 on my L24 witth Mikuni's-then eventually FI turbo. Ignition seems to be the problem with most installs. I will add that there is another option for rpm signal-might check my thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 (edited) Oops. Sorry for the confusion. I have a new engine with mods in the garage. I want to avoid installing a newly made engine with a newly installed Megasquirt into my car with a base tune that may or may not work. I had a L28E converted to a turbo awhile ago so I have pretty much double the turbo parts. So the goal.....I think....is to Megasquirt the NA, then turbo it, then add the larger turbo and injectors to my NA, and then finally swap in the L28ET that is in my garage. So what I am wondering is if anyone has any tips or suggestions to my plan to eventually get my new and modded L28ET in. Are there any things I should do immediately such as swapping the L28ET oil pump, shaft, and dizzy in before trying to tune with megasquirt? Or should I wait until I have a tune already set up and working? Any other ideas? My running engine in my car is an N42 block and N47 head. My new L28ET is F54/P90 Edited May 16, 2014 by dpuma8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Still confused of what you are trying to accomplish here. The "tune" is not what's going to be a problem, it's getting the MS properly set-up and working with no glitches. Like said above, having a reliable and understandable rpm signal and proper wiring and a strong understanding of the MS will be your advantage. I'd say once you have tuned with the NA motor and then added turbo mods you will be ready to drop in any motor. Timing will be everything---especially with a turbo motor, so a good understanding of speed density tuning or whatever you are using is priority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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