redrbz Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Has anyone ditch the old setup and went with this route, or similar? I'm tired of finding or buying rebuilts. http://www.chasebays.com/product/universal-chase-bays/chase-bays-brake-booster-eliminator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 If you do, you should use a tandem master cylinder, not the single master they show. You want the front and rear brake systems on independent hydraulic circuits, just in case. You can also modify the pedal to give you more leverage if you remove the booster. Otherwise it's going to take a lot of pressure on the pedal to slow the car down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z240 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Please carefully read this person's product description then decide if this is a sane and safe product to use. My BS meter hits 100% several times during my read. I would personaly NEVER use this product on a street or race car alone. My (least) favorite part is the section titled "Does this kit work with my OEM brake lines?" If reading that doesn't trigger a few mental alarms, you'd better do more study on brake safety and shill advertising.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) I deleted my booster about thirteen years ago when I went to four wheel disc brakes. All the it takes is a plate that has the master cylinder bolt pattern superimposed on the firewall bolt pattern, and an appropriate pushrod/clevis going into the master cylinder. I used the stock 260Z master cylinder with my set-up. I believe that it has a 15/16 bore. I autocross the car frequently, and I love the feel of my brakes. So, can you delete the booster? The answer is yes. Should you use a single circuit master cylinder like used on the kit shown by the original poster? Hell No! My entire brake system is as follows: Front: 11.75 x 1.2 vented rotors Outlaw 2800 calipers with 1.75" pistons Hawk HB237N.625 Pads (HP Plus compound) Rear: 10.75 x 0.81" vented rotors Outlaw 2800 calipers with 1.375" pistons Hawk HB237N.625 Pads Wilwood proportioning valve Stock Pedal Assembly Stock Master Cylinder With good components front and rear and good brake balance, there is no need for a brake booster on our cars (IMHO). To me, the booster is only an extra source of weight and an extra item that can fail. The pictures below show the aluminum plate that I used to delete the booster. The first picture shows the plate on the firewall, and the second shows the master cylinder installed. Note: Edited my brake set-up inventory. I thought I had used the 1.25" pistons in the rear, but I was wrong. I installed the 1.375 pistons on the rear thirteen years ago. The memory just isn't what it used to be.... Edited August 2, 2014 by 74_5.0L_Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 One thing to note is that larger diameter rotors and larger pistons give more brake torque, so less pedal pressure required compared to the same size master with stock components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 (edited) The other thing that affects pedal effort is the relative size of the caliper piston area versus the master cylinder piston area. Contrary to what many people seem to think, reducing the size of the master cylinder piston lowers the required pedal effort and increases the pedal travel. Increasing the master cylinder piston size increases the required pedal effort and reduces the pedal travel. Edited July 31, 2014 by 74_5.0L_Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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