Dingo Posted May 17, 2015 Author Share Posted May 17, 2015 Pics from the firewall/fender area on the driver side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 This weekend was car work extravaganza! Another round of updates and pics. I made the piece to fill in the triangle cut out on the firewall/fender area. I think this is my best work yet. I'm a newb when it comes to sheet metal fab and welding, but I think I'm starting to get the hang of it. One pic is of the cardboard template and it's metal counterpart, next pics are test fit, tack welds, the full burn in top and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Next up... the driver side front frame rail (where it connects to the floor pan), is in terrible shape. After staring at it for 5-10 minutes trying to figure out what to do I just started hacking away. I removed the part that spans from the TC rod bucket to the floor frame rail first, then worked on removing the larger portion that is the frame rail. Hacking it out left things a bit ugly, but there's a lot of pitted rust on the top and side of that frame rail that needed to go. The rust also went up the fender well a bit, and a small portion of the firewall. Since this is out, I think the plan is to remove the driver side floor pan and rail, replace those, then start rebuilding the front frame rail back into the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Nice work on the battery tray... I need to do mine as well Thanks, it definitely made it nicer. The biggest problem I had putting the piece back in was blowing holes through the thin firewall metal I still have a couple of places to touch up and fill in around it. The metal i'm putting back in everywhere is 18 gauge, and you can really feel a difference when you bang on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 I'm replacing mine with 18 gauge as well. These cars are rust particle holding hands I swear. The end result is good though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brownclee Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) Try using the thinnest wire in you MIG. I switched to 0.023 and it greatly reduced how much I burned through. Edited May 19, 2015 by brownclee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Lots to update this time around. I've spent pretty much all weekend working on the beast. I cut out the driver side floor pan (almost the whole thing front to back). I cleaned off to the pinch welds as well. Pics in this post are the floor board out, rocker panel cleaned up, new floor going back in, a shot of the car flipped with the new floor, and a close up of the floor that rises up to the firewall with a patch in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 I've started rebuilding the bad frame rail as well. Instead of trying to mimic the factory contoured piece, I'm going to rebuild it in simpler sections. I was able to mock up the C-channel piece that is the frame rail pretty close to the original size and got it tacked in. Next up I started fab'ing the frame rail and TC bucket connector. I went with 2x2" tubing, and after replacing the entire floor with a mostly flat piece, it doesn't look like the new tubing will be much taller than the factory frame rail. I haven't started tacking in the frame rail yet, I've got a little more massaging on the floor pan to get it to lie completely flat. I am eventually going to fill in the front and back side of the frame rail extension where it meets the front frame rail and wheel well metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Coming along nicely! A thought on massaging the floors, maybe some self tapers trough the floor into the frame, then after all is tacked in, weld it up. Then you have a spot weld in the middle of the frame too. That's the silly idea I have in my noggin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Jay_Gadsby: That's a good idea and I almost went with it. I ended up using a jack and a couple of boards to level it out (pics attached). I have the new floor rail in, and I started patching back the fender area. After it's all said and done it feels strong and tight, and you can hear the stability back in when you bang on the floor pan. I stopped for the day because this July heat is rough, and it's only the beginning of the hot season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 A non car update... so my last post ends on the July heat. I'll let the pic speak for itself Next post will have some car updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 First two pics are the finale in the driver-side-front-frame-rail-rust-fiasco . Second, my bro came over to lend a helping hand and we got the passenger floor pan and front frame rail out in record time. For some reason I didn't snap any reinstall pics, but the passenger floor pan is back in and about 75% welded in place. Next up will be getting the passenger floor rail fabbed in place. It's getting to the point where i'm almost done with major structural rust repairs, and have to move on to exterior/body, and all the rust on the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendanm71240z Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Progress is looking good! And ac can make all the difference in the world but I also noticed it's still June not July..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 Progress is looking good! And ac can make all the difference in the world but I also noticed it's still June not July..... Down here in the deep dirty south, temps are already in the mid 90's and climbing. The other day it was 96 or 97, and with humidity the weather forecast was showing "feels like 103". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Haha, that is one of the many reasons to work at night for me. Cooler temps, electricity is free after 9 on our plan, and kids are sleeping your progress is looking good. Keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 Jay_Gadsby: Free electricity after 9pm? I would run the air conditioner with the doors open just to combat nature! Thanks for the kind words everyone. It helps to keep going when this car has pretty much been my dream car since I was a kid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Gadsby Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Yeah from 9pm-630am is free. Daytime was like a cent more per kilowatt hour, but we save a bunch this way. I enjoy seeing the progress you guys all make...keeps me a little motivated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) FLOOR PANS ARE IN. I REPEAT, FLOOR PANS ARE IN! Passenger side in, new fab'd frame rail in (except for rear extension pieces), and rebuilt sides on the front frame rail finished. After comparing the two side by side, I wish that the driver side went in as nice as the passenger side, but I had to cut out more rust areas on the driver side foot area and reshape it back. Also something else to note, the floor pans aren't completely level to each other in the foot-well area. They are level in the back though, so I should be able to get the new seat rails and seats level to each other. I might have to shim one of the new seat rails to correct any differences. I don't think the unevenness up front in the foot area is a big deal though. I'm also wondering if the floor pans were level to begin with? When we put in the passenger side we left a lip on the front and rear from the factory floors, and the new pan sat right down on the overhang. Also, both floors were put in with the pinch weld/door side running even the length of the car. I know cars aren't necessarily symmetrical underneath anyway, these are just things you think about while working I guess Edited June 22, 2015 by Dingo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 Long over due update! I had some medical problems over the summer which put me down for a little while, and after getting better I helped a buddy do a lot of upgrades to his Altima SE-R. I'm now getting back into the saddle with the 280Z project. In the time I haven't been posting updates, I bought a 2000 Trans Am for the donor motor and transmission. The price was too good to not pass up and it's just been sitting in my backyard for a couple months awaiting surgery. I got the Trans Am in the shop last night and started the work to pull the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingo Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 Also, I had finished up the frame rail rear end and bracing, but never posted pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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