Tim240z Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Opinions please: I dropped the gearbox on the 83 ZXT that I got on Sunday. The clutch was shuddering badly, so I assumed one of two things (or both): 1. The clutch disc was F'ed 2. There was oil or brake fluid on the lining. Well, pulled the clutch and the friction surface looks very new. I can still see remnants of the yellow part number lettering on the friction surface. A couple (2) of the little springs in the center of the friction disc are loose and can be rattled a little back and forth. There is no fluid on the flywheel or friction surface. The slave cylinder looks old, but does not appear to be leaking. I will probably get a new clutch kit (Valeo) since I have everything out, but do y'all think that will solve the problem? Help....I wanna drive this damn thing. Thanks, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Tim, Maybe the flywheel was not surfaced? Maybe cheesy clutch parts? Have the flywheel surfaced when you go back together with it. Also do a good clutch hydro system flush. While it`s out would be a good time to replace the rear engine seal, the frt & rear trans seal & the frt trans gasket. Might as well change the trany fluid also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Flywheel surface as noted above... maybe clutch slightly misaligned on last repair.. flywheel tourqed incorrectly or nor ar all......all could cause "shudder"............sounds like a recent clutch job with hasty repair work with the clutch not showing much wear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 15, 2003 Author Share Posted January 15, 2003 The flywheel 'feels' very smooth, but this obviously doesn't tell if the surface is warped. I drained the oil from the 'box before I pulled the driveshaft out and it cam out like honey....very obviously brand new oil!! Question: Is the ZXT tranny supposed to use regular gear oil or ATF like the newer type trannies? If I do pull the flywheel, can I replace the rear main without dropping the pan? Thanks for the help guys....I'm much more comfortable with SBCs..... TIm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 You can just use a seal puller to get the rear engine seal out. It comes right out the back, no need to do anything with the pan. I`m going to say 75W-90 gear lube (synthetic of course) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 15, 2003 Author Share Posted January 15, 2003 Thanks Doug for the info, and for adding in some more info on the edit. One more thing..do you know the torque specs on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? I guess I need to get a FSM for this bloody thing!! Thanks again, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 It`s what`s called "german torque" GOOD N TIGHT Ya get it? No really, I don`t know a torque value, I always use an impact gun with RED loctite on the flywheel bolts. I use RED loctite on the pressure plate bolts, and tighten them up TIGHT by feel.(I was a mechanic for 15 years) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 100ft/lb-110ft/lb with some red locktite on the flywheel. I can't remember the pressure plate but I think it was around 20ft/lb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 OK, I looked in one of my manuals Flywheel bolts - 100ft-lb Pressure plate bolts - 17.4-18.8 ft-lb Special Note this was out of a 72 service manual, turbo stuff may be higher! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Where is DAW from Seattle?? ATF or gear oil for a ZX Turbo tranny? .. Tim if that rear main is not leaking ..no need to replace it.You will probably have to drop the pan to do it right since there are some hard to reach grooves that need sealant under the pan. The rear main may be new too.Flywheel clutch disc contact surface can be measured with a dial indicator gauge and base with the engine in place should not exceed 0.15mm or 0.0059in.....For clutch Chatter (78 z manual) weak or broken clutch disc torsion spring.....clutch facing out of proper contact or clutch disc run out......loose rivets...warped pressure plate or clutch cover surface....Uneveness of diaphragm spring toe height...loose engine mounting or deteriatted rubber...Check pilot bushing for damage...Here is a long shot...turn that tranny by hand checking for a chipped tooth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 15, 2003 Author Share Posted January 15, 2003 TZ...You Da Man!!!! I think I will get a new clutch kit and slap it back together and see how it goes. I'm guessing that who ever put it in just slapped it together and twisted the clutch plate since two of the clutch plate springs are loose. I'll have it back together tomorrow and I'll let you know if it is better. Larry, I wish you hadn't mentioned chipped tooth. I don't want to hear that!!!! Thanks Yo and Doug! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Tim, The ZXT T5 needs ATF for lube, not 90-weight. If you use Redline MTL in that trans it will shift better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Concur with D Carrow on the flywheel torque at 94 to 108 ft-lb but my in quotes "78 Z Shop Manual" sez 12 to 15 foot pounds on the clutch assembly....... Is this a T5 tranny? T5 was an option for the turbo zxs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 15, 2003 Author Share Posted January 15, 2003 Rick et al, Could the fact that the gearbox had gear oil in it instead of ATF have caused some of the problems that I am experiencing? The oil was obviously very new when I drained it, it still had that clear 'honey' appearance. What is going to be the best way to clean out all the gear oil? ==Fill with ATF, then change the fluid after a few miles ==flush with diesel fuel, then fill with ATF? Thanks, Tim BTW, I can only assume that this is the original tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Tim, my inclination would be to flush with diesel first, the initialdiesel will probably get most of the gear oil and the diesel would drain out fairly well. My concern if any of this misplaced oil would damage parts? You could soak it with diesel out of the car flush the next day and then run a couple changes of ATF during operational use. The initial ATF application and flush should clean it completely out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Tim, As far as "cleaning" the trans out, just fill will what ever oil your going to use and then drain it after 100 miles and refill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 Look at it like this, premium gear lubes like Amsoil / Redline are not thick like regular gear lubes! They are very slick and are quite fluid. They are "designed" to flow at "low" temps and don`t thicken at "high" temps.(as long as they stay wihin their operating ranges)(which are, quite low to quite high) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 I have an '83 fsm that specifies SAE 80-90 OR ATF in the T5 (just looked it up). So probably flushing out the old thick stuff won't be necessary - Most synthetics I've seen are compatible with petroleum-based lubes. You might check on the label of the stuff you're going to use. In my own experience, going from a "gear lube " type ( I thought the previous owner had put in the wrong type) stuff to a thinner ATF-like stuff improved the shifting characteristics of the T5. IMO synthetics are the thing to use in transmissions especially since the lube isn't changed very often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 15, 2003 Author Share Posted January 15, 2003 So a few bottles of Redline ATF is in order? Can someone tell me the fluid capacity of the T-5? Sorry for all the mundane questions!! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted January 15, 2003 Author Share Posted January 15, 2003 Ok, more: The parts store gave me a kit for the 2 seater ZXT, but it was too small (diameter). So they are delivering me the 2+2 kit. Is it possible that the larger clutch was OEM on the non 2+2? The input shaft has some play (up and down/side to side type play, not in and out). Is this normal? Thanks, Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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