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Anyone using APR headstuds?


yo2001

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Guest Anonymous

I have had no problems at all with the ARP head studs i would recomend them for any high HP application.My head is O ringed and i am using an HKS head gasket as well.

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Well, I guess if you overtightened them so badly that you cracked the block, I guess they could cause a leak... tongue.gif

 

Here is a link to a conversation we had quite some time ago about the torque specs:

 

ARP head stud torque thread

 

I had actually scanned the spec sheet, and James posted it on his website, but it appears that he has since moved/deleted it, so the link was broken. James - maybe you could post an updated link to that pic? I still have it here if you need me to send it...

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The leak you are probably referring to is coolant seepage(sp?) if the studs bottoms out into a water jacket. This was a serious problem for me because the head studs act like a wick and coolant just comes up pass the threads.

 

Do not know if this is an issue with the L6 but there are thread sealants to use and special procedures to follow to avoid this problem.

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Yes, scottie I was worried about seepage (can't spell either). I know that SBF have some problem with seepage. I think the second one from the back of motor on the driver side headbolt is always the one that leaks. At least on the L28 I've taken apart.

 

How would you prevent that?

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Here is the procedure I followed that worked for me:

- If the studs are not new, clean the threads.

- Chase the hole to also clean its threads.

- Apply thread sealant (I will get the brand when I get a chance to dig it out).

- Insert studs and let set for 24hrs

- Finish install as normal.

- First time I had the problem I ended up adding "Aluma-Seal" to my coolant and it solved the problem with no noticeable side effects you normally get from such additives. As routine I added it when I did it again and recommend it. I also run 1 each of WaterWetter and RMI-25.

 

With the V-6 I can see if it is seeping because not all the studs are under the valve covers. I suppose with the Z you would need to run it for a while then pull the valve cover.

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