Cylinder condition advice? Glazed?

[Boog]

Sounds like a plan. I'll get on that as soon as i can. Thank you for your help in diagnosing the problem. Here's my plan as of now:

1. Pull oil pan.

2. Inspect crank, maybe pull a piston (if its a good idea? would the ring just break off?)

3. clean everything, do some measurements and make sure everything checks out. 

4. Do the valve seals, clean head.

5. Reassemble with new HG, and turbo parts. 

6. Check if smoking still, if so, then do a compression test again with the oil method and truly diagnose my rings. 

 

Really hoping I'm not going to have to do the rings after reassembling, but I'm guessing if I check measurements and such and make sure everything looks good from a numbers perspective, I will have a low chance of having to do that. 

[Tony D]

How often do you add oil.

 

My L28 burns oil at a rate of a liter every 500 miles when AutoX and maybe less than half that amount in 3,000 miles driving highway cross-country.

 

Yeah, you can smell it behind the car.

 

You might even get oil dots if you follow on too closely.

 

In 100,000 miles, at $3 a liter and the worst possible consumption scenario I will need to buy 200 Litres of oil costing $600...

 

Or I can spend $3,500 and properly overhaul the engine to save between $30~60 a year in additional oil costs.

 

Yep, math is a bitch!

[Boog]

Oh it burns about that much, but it absolutely spews oil when I'm engine braking or WOT. Its more than a little smelling.

[Tony D]

Just putting the impartial engineering costs out there for consideration.

 

I never said mine was 'a little'...

 

Oil "Consumption" is a big bugaboo.

 

Nobody has really showed a realistic economic rationale for the costs to "correct" it.

 

Some forged piston engines will never get better than 1 liter / 500 miles. Like Porsches and VW's. Or L24's with forged slugs. 

 

In these cars, it's accepted as normal. 

 

Just putting it out there for consideration.

[Boog]

Definitely considered, thanks for the input! Were you trying to say that my oil cloud was a normal amount from driving consumption? Because in that case, it definitely is different from just normal burning. No burning unless its under WOT or back-pressure.

[Boog]

Also, I have decided my final plan of attack and ordered parts. I bought all my reassembly gaskets, as well as valve seals (from the mustang was it? I can't remember, i got the right ones though). Planning on just pulling the oil pan, if everything looks good I'll leave it as is. Pistons will get a cleaning, as well as the block mating surface. Oil pan gets its return bung welded on. Then the head gets cleaned with ATF and soapy water, with a very light pressure washing/hosing to get the gunk out. Valve seals will be done as well during cleaning. I got new plugs, fuel hose, injector pigtails (to go on my freshly cleaned turbo injectors). Also a new high flow fuel pump is going in the rear. Hopefully my rebuilt turbo (professionally) won't burn oil, so I know if it is still spewing when I get it back together it should be piston rings. Further updates will come as I get my parts and get to dive in on the project. If someone has another suggestion of something I should do, do differently, or not at all, please let me know. I will definitely be checking this thread.