HELP! (kinda long)

[jt1]

Pete, that sucks. If it was only water and only running for a short time, I don't think you've hurt the bearings. Hope the bolts do the trick.

 

I wonder why studs are so much worse than bolts to leak? Doesn't seem like there would be much difference. I've had a few bolts seep, but they sealed after running a bit.

 

John

[quicker240]

I've been watching your posts about the water leaks and have hesitated to reply,waiting to see how the posted repairs and thread sealers fared.I had the same problems.I have ARP studs top and bottom also on a 400 block.Upon 1st startup,coolant was leaking all over the place.The engine builder said this was VERY common and he added some stop leak tabs(while I was standing there frowning).I cant remember what brand they were, but they were brown cylindrical powder that came 5 to a pack.I have seen them many times in parts stores.He added them to the system as the engine came to operating temp,and the leaks COMPLETELY stopped after 5 or 10 minutes.I too am not a big fan of stop leak, but I'll be damned if it did'nt cure the coolant leaks.After running the motor a few months,I decided,anal that I am,to flush and change my coolant.Lo and behold some coolant leaks popped up,although not as severe as the initial ones.Another couple of stop leak tabs later,all was well again.I moniter my coolant temps closely and stay on top of the level but I have had no problems either with cooling or coolant loss.I mean NONE.I did not at any point though,get substantial water into the oil.I hope grumpy will chime in on this issue as an experienced SBC builder.I changed the oil after the initial break in of about 8 hours run time and at 2000 mile intervals since then,with no signs of water.Hope this helps at least a little Pete,although its probably not what you want to hear.Good luck!

[grumpyvette]

guys! Ive YET to have a single stud or bolt leak!

 

its simple! run a tap thru the threads, test screw the clean/dry stud by hand to verify no clearance or binding then ,clean them and dry the threads on the block and studs,before you start the assembly, and just dip the total threaded surface on the lower studs course thread end of the stud that screws into the block into the correct sealant. spin it in your fingers slowly as you move the stud to the hole in the block to keep from dripping sealant on the deck,

thread it into the block full depth , back it out a 1/2 turn and let it set up for a few minutes before assembling the head gaskets and heads,but assemble the heads while the sealants still fresh/liquid, torque too spec and let the engine set for a few hours (preferably over night)

 

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyID=386

 

the stuff works far more relieably than most thread pastes or thread sealants, it cleans ,off fingers with a scotchbrite pad and gas or alcohol,....provided you have not let it set up on your skin very long, once its started too dry ...good luck

 

YES it works on BOLTS ALSO

 

OLD POST COVERS THAT INFO

 

 

I can,t believe the stuff I see at times..in the car mags that are SUPPOSED to be articles composed by guys who know what they are doing!!!!!!!

I picked up a copy of one of the more comon, chevy based magazines and theres PICTURES of a guy dipping head bolts in yellow weather strip adhesive to be used as a thread sealant on the bolt threads (its not designed to come in direct contact with oil and/or high heat coolant),and its not going to give the correct tq readings either, and on the next page the guys gooping, GOBS of clear silicone like youll use to seal aquariums or bathroom fixtures 1/4 thick on/around the intake manifold ports, NEITHER SEALANT is DESIGNED FOR or is LIKELY to perform correctly IN EITHER APPLICATION, and WHERE does this guy think all that excess silicone will go once the intakes torqued down????

theres only two high probabilitys, it will flow into the port where it will eventually harden and get sucked into the cylinders or it may hang there causing a restriction in the port, or if it flows down, it gets into the lifter gallery where its eventually going to get into the oil pump pick up screen, restricting or blocking oil flow

i would not let these guys fix a flat tire let alone work on MY ENGINES all I can do is shake my head and wonder who if ANYONE screens these articles

 

always use the manufacturers suggested installation instructions, as some applications or gasket types REQUIRE differant lubes or sealants but heres a rought guide

 

 

head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in

http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69

 

or this

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=2&familyid=384

(NOT QUITE AS GOOD BUT STILL OK)

 

then insert and tq heads in place

 

 

head gaskets #3

main bolts #2

rod bolts #2

oil pump stud and nut #4

oil pan bolts #5

oil pan gasket #6

cam spocket bolts #4

timing cover gasket #6

timing cover bolts #1

intake bolts #1

intake gasket #6

thermostat housing bolts #5

thermostat housing gasket (also do you really need it) usually yes #6

Exhaust manifold/header bolts #1

Exhaust manifold/header gaskets #3

Water pump bolts #5

water pump gaskets #6

fuel pump #6

crank/damper bolt #1

Torque converter bolts #4

flywheel/flexplate bolts #4

bellhousing bolts #2

 

1 antiseize

2 oil or ARP thread lube

3 copper coat spray gasket sealer or apply dry in some cases (see manufactures suggestions)

4 loctite (red or blue depends on application ,read the lables)

5 http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69

6 black high temp RTV

 

use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS

[woldson]

Good info, kinda old post though.