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got my turus fan!! now have ???


z ya

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I got my fan a few days ago.It came from an

89 turus station wagon with the 3.8.It has

the three large wires(bro/yellow stripe,bro/

orange stripe/ and blk wire).Now how does

the fan engage to the second speed?Should

I cut the ford connector off?

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One wire should be ground, one wire should be hotlow, and th elast wire should be hothigh. Not sure which will be which will be which but some time with an Ohmeter mgith help. Worse comes to worse hook it up to a battery and see smile.gif

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Hey, I just had the same question. First, don't cut off that Ford connector! Get both sides and that way if the motor dies you can just plug in the new one. On the wiring, look closely at the wires coming from the motor. Some have three wires all the way to the connector. Some have four wires from the motor and two are spliced together so you end up with three at the connector. You need to pull or cut off the corrugated black plastic covering to really see what’s going on. One wire will be solid black, no stripe, this will be the ground. If you have four wires the two to one splice will be high speed, the remainder is low. If none of this helps do what I did. I walked into the service dept. at my local Ford dealer and asked if the had a wiring diagram for my year. They where happy to help, took 10 minutes.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

I am going after the two speed Ford fan this weekend. How do you use the high/low feature? I was thinking that the low is on all the time and above a certain temp high kicks in? How will you hook it up?

 

Craig

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How you hook it up depends on a couple of things. If you have a carb motor you need two temperature switches, (or a single two stage switch, I don’t know if they make such a thing) and a single pole double throw relay. The first switch closes at the lower temp. + power goes to one wire of the low temp switch, out the other wire, to the common (COMM) on the relay. The low speed wire is then connected to the normally closed (NC) on the relay. The high speed is connected to the normally open (NO) on the relay. Then you power the relay by the high temp switch. This is just one way to wire it. But this way you can't send power to both high and low at the same time and potentially burn out your fan motor. This way the low speed comes on only when the engine gets up to temp. Then the high speed come on when the temp exceeds the trip point of the high temp switch. I don’t know what those temperatures should be. Maybe you tuner guys could help out? Hey Mikelly? By the way, GM made some excellent water proof relays that are readily available at the bone yards cheep. The diagram is printed right on the top and the contacts are labled!

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I made my own fan relay circuit that runs either on OR the other speed (winding) depending on the state of the JET fan temperature switch I'm running and the state of the A/C trinary switch. Mike Kelly's seen the schematic and box. Overkill again. wink.gif

 

But if I were to be getting the fan from a car in the yard, I'd grab the box that controls the fan. It has high amperage relays, etc. in it. Get the schematic from a Good manual for the Taurus, and figure out how to wire that box to your fan temp switch. Maybe even get the fan temp switch out of the Taurus.

 

Or you could just use the high speed winding!

 

------------------

Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project

pparaska@home.com

Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages

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There's also the issue of where to put the two temperature switches. My 1985 BMW 535i has holes for two switches in the radiator tank, and I'm sure that SOMEWHERE out there, there's another radiator with a similar configuration in a size that would fit between the frame rails of the Z. I just don't know which radiator that would be! :-)

 

Until I find that special radiator, the high-temp switch will be located in a fitting that goes in the upper radiator hose, similar to the way an inline filler neck works. I pulled mine off a mid-eighties Saab 900 sedan. I'm not sure whose website I saw this solution on. I tried to find it the other day, but failed. Without them, I wouldn't know that such a gizmo existed! One other bonus of such a device is that it makes it possible to rotate each half of the radiator hose for a better fit.

 

I've also seen that on Black Magic (I think) fans, there's a thermocouple built into the frame that holds the fan in place. I wonder if we couldn't find a source for something like that, which would take the temperature signal from the radiator shell, rather than have to poke another sensor into the cooling system. It would certainly be one less possible source for leaks.

 

 

 

------------------

Scott Ferguson

1976 260-Z, surrounded by an ever-growing cloud of V8 parts...

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Guest Locutus

What about a radiator out of a VW rabbit, I seem to remember they being pretty stout, at least the ones for the diesel rabbits. It had a fan switch in the radiator. I don't know about exact diminsions, or anything like that, but I used to own one many moons back(second car, going for economy to attend college on a budget). If anyone gets the measurements on one of those let us know if its viable or not.

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  • 2 weeks later...

try a 96 AUDI.. similar to VW in that its alum and super lite, no filler neck tho, and has switches for the oem fan....

i have one in my racecar- works great..

 

Mike

 

or you could always have some alum bungs tigged into a griffin rad for the temp swithces

 

------------------

Mike

mike@fonebooth.com

http://www.outlaw-brakes

raceparts and brake upgrades.

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