ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 So after installing a 3.9 r200 clsd and wolfcreek racing cv's, I am experiencing a horrible clunking noise. The noise is present when the suspension is fully compressed and clunks when the car is in motion. It's a continuous clunking not just on initial acceleration. I have tightened down every bolt possible and lock wire is in place. Any ideas on what it is? If I had the cv shafts on the wrong side, will binding cause this type of noise. The car is lowered (slammed) with coilovers. I need to figure this out before I get it retuned with the new turbo! Thanks, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 I have also read that while the suspension is settled and under weight, you should be able to move your shafts alittle. Mine do not move at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) You can check for bind (shafts too long) on the wolf creek axles easily. You can grab the shiny axle shafts and shake them left and right to feel the useable travel or free play between the CVs. Try putting a jack under the suspension to repeat the process at a variety of ride heights. If you have play at all ride heights, axle bind isn't the problem. Wiggle all the aluminum adapters and be sure they aren't loose. All those hidden bolts deserve lock tite. Are you running a rear swaybar? If so, check to see if the axles rub on the end links. Check to see that the CVs don't rub on any brake lines or calipers. Is the driveshaft loose? Is the clunking inside the diff? Did the diff clunk with the stock axles? Does it seem to matter whether you are going straight or around a corner? Edited February 11, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 The st sways and brake lines clear the boots completely. The "shiny" shafts do not move at all while the suspension is compressed. I do not know if the diff clunked prior because I purchased it and installed it without testing it. Per Whitehead Performance the diff was tested and in good working order. The noise is present while driving straight, turning, forward, and reverse. Since the shafts have no available play the must be binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Can you be more descriptive than "continuous clunking"? If it sounds the same at 10 mph as at 60, that's different than going from a clunk at 10 to grinding at 60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 The noise is more pronounced at low speed due to very little road noise. It increases with vehicle speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Yeah, mine had play. Not something you want to do: but tear it apart and install stock axles and see how it drives... Sorry, bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) One last investigative exercise: try to pry the inner stub axles out of the diff. If they pop out a bit, then you maybe aren't in bind. Or if you have coilovers: raise the ride height. Edited February 11, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Do i do this when the car's suspension is under load or when the car is on jack stands and the suspension is hanging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 If you don't have travel ANYWHERE, it probably doesn't matter. I think the axles are most compressed when the suspension is hanging. So, if you have some ramps, but can block the front wheels so you know it won't roll onto you, you might try it with the car resting on its own weight. Pics might help us help you so we can see what suspension alignment you are running. Did you buy the R200 wolf creek axles? I think they sell different length axles for R180 and R200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 I purchased the r200 kit from wolfcreek website. I raised the vehicle to allow a 1 inch wheel gap and still same problem the alignment was not adjusted and the camber is not "bad". I wont be able to do anything else tonight or tomorrow but will try to get some pics up thursday. Are the r180 shafts longer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 With a CLSD you should be able to take one shaft off and drive it. I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 The "I think" statement is not too confindence inspiring. This car is killing me. I just wanna get it tuned and drive it. I could always drop it off to a shop and spend a bunch of money, but that is not the kind of people we are on this forum. I am gonna call wolfcreek for advise tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Pretty sure. Take the shaft off on the side with less space, driver's side (I think), and run it. If the noise goes away, the passenger side was binding. Worst case, the car doesn't go anywhere. Edited February 11, 2015 by NewZed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Ah, I think this matter of pulling one axle is if-y. It depends on the preload built into the diff. The locking of the LSD depends on how much torque is coming into the input shaft forcing the the ramps against the clutches. I can still turn one wheel on my diff separate from the other when it is up on the jacks with no torque coming into the diff from the driveshaft and it had 45# of breakaway torque when I assembled it. Check the wolf creek website to verify different kits (or call tomorrow). They sure could have sent you the wrong kit (we are all human). They should be able to give you a shaft measurement to verify. Wait-I'm sure they have two different kits. I recall they told me a couple years ago that to upgrade the R180 kit to the R200 kit that they sell you a shorter shaft but you re-use one of the R180 shafts. Edited February 11, 2015 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 My CLSD does clunk and bang on slow turns like in a parking lot. That clunk is very alarming, but my diff is quiet in a straight line and even in corners if driving hard. I have a video somewhere in the drivetrain forum if you just page and page down you will find it. But I would want to narrow the problem to either the axles or the diff. If you still have your stock axles, you could validate the diff tomorrow. Heck, chasing a noise, you could have a rock in your hubcap (yes, I've done that), something loose in a brake drum, or a big zip tie on the driveshaft (cruel practical joke). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Raise the car until the rear lower control arms are pointing down and you can feel the shaft play mentioned above on both CV shafts. Do a test drive. If the noise goes away the problem is CV shaft binding most likely on the driver's side. You will have to shorten the shaft or run your car at a higher ride height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks Johnc. I will try that tomorrow morning. I believe this is the case because everytime i but the car on jack stands to do work the noise goes away for the first few miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks Johnc. I will try that tomorrow morning. I believe this is the case because everytime i but the car on jack stands to do work the noise goes away for the first few miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktown z Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks Johnc. I will try that tomorrow morning. I believe this is the case because everytime i but the car on jack stands to do work the noise goes away for the first few miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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