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Wolfcreek issues?


ktown z

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So after installing a 3.9 r200 clsd and wolfcreek racing cv's, I am experiencing a horrible clunking noise. The noise is present when the suspension is fully compressed and clunks when the car is in motion. It's a continuous clunking not just on initial acceleration. I have tightened down every bolt possible and lock wire is in place. Any ideas on what it is? If I had the cv shafts on the wrong side, will binding cause this type of noise. The car is lowered (slammed) with coilovers. I need to figure this out before I get it retuned with the new turbo!

Thanks,

James

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You can check for bind (shafts too long) on the wolf creek axles easily. You can grab the shiny axle shafts and shake them left and right to feel the useable travel or free play between the CVs. Try putting a jack under the suspension to repeat the process at a variety of ride heights. If you have play at all ride heights, axle bind isn't the problem. Wiggle all the aluminum adapters and be sure they aren't loose. All those hidden bolts deserve lock tite. Are you running a rear swaybar? If so, check to see if the axles rub on the end links. Check to see that the CVs don't rub on any brake lines or calipers. Is the driveshaft loose? Is the clunking inside the diff? Did the diff clunk with the stock axles? Does it seem to matter whether you are going straight or around a corner?

Edited by RebekahsZ
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The st sways and brake lines clear the boots completely. The "shiny" shafts do not move at all while the suspension is compressed. I do not know if the diff clunked prior because I purchased it and installed it without testing it. Per Whitehead Performance the diff was tested and in good working order. The noise is present while driving straight, turning, forward, and reverse. Since the shafts have no available play the must be binding.

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If you don't have travel ANYWHERE, it probably doesn't matter. I think the axles are most compressed when the suspension is hanging. So, if you have some ramps, but can block the front wheels so you know it won't roll onto you, you might try it with the car resting on its own weight. Pics might help us help you so we can see what suspension alignment you are running. Did you buy the R200 wolf creek axles? I think they sell different length axles for R180 and R200.

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I purchased the r200 kit from wolfcreek website. I raised the vehicle to allow a 1 inch wheel gap and still same problem the alignment was not adjusted and the camber is not "bad". I wont be able to do anything else tonight or tomorrow but will try to get some pics up thursday. Are the r180 shafts longer?

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The "I think" statement is not too confindence inspiring. This car is killing me. I just wanna get it tuned and drive it. I could always drop it off to a shop and spend a bunch of money, but that is not the kind of people we are on this forum. I am gonna call wolfcreek for advise tomorrow.

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Ah, I think this matter of pulling one axle is if-y. It depends on the preload built into the diff. The locking of the LSD depends on how much torque is coming into the input shaft forcing the the ramps against the clutches. I can still turn one wheel on my diff separate from the other when it is up on the jacks with no torque coming into the diff from the driveshaft and it had 45# of breakaway torque when I assembled it. Check the wolf creek website to verify different kits (or call tomorrow). They sure could have sent you the wrong kit (we are all human). They should be able to give you a shaft measurement to verify. Wait-I'm sure they have two different kits. I recall they told me a couple years ago that to upgrade the R180 kit to the R200 kit that they sell you a shorter shaft but you re-use one of the R180 shafts.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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My CLSD does clunk and bang on slow turns like in a parking lot. That clunk is very alarming, but my diff is quiet in a straight line and even in corners if driving hard. I have a video somewhere in the drivetrain forum if you just page and page down you will find it. But I would want to narrow the problem to either the axles or the diff. If you still have your stock axles, you could validate the diff tomorrow. Heck, chasing a noise, you could have a rock in your hubcap (yes, I've done that), something loose in a brake drum, or a big zip tie on the driveshaft (cruel practical joke).

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Raise the car until the rear lower control arms are pointing down and you can feel the shaft play mentioned above on both CV shafts. Do a test drive. If the noise goes away the problem is CV shaft binding most likely on the driver's side. You will have to shorten the shaft or run your car at a higher ride height.

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