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280z fuel calibrator malfunction


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I have a 1975 280z, running stock efi. I recently upgraded to the 280zx alternator and installed the diode in between the correct plug (I'm 100% the diode is installed correctly, this is the 2and time I've done this mod). On my fuse box I have to take out at 10 amp fuse for my fuel gauge calibrator since my car will not shut off if it is installed. When the calibrator fuse is removed my car shuts off fine but I have to rev the engine past 3000 rpms in order for my tach, fuel gauge, and voltage meter to work. I've tried going through the fsm trying to trace what the issue may be, I'm thinking it may be a bad relay that is underneath the passanger seat? My dash clock is also removed, but this issue occurred before I removed my clock. I've also swapped out ignition switches which didn't help either. Has anyone else had a similiar issue or know what may be the problem? Thanks..

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 installed the diode in between the correct plug (I'm 100% the diode is installed correctly, this is the 2and time I've done this mod). On my fuse box I have to take out at 10 amp fuse for my fuel gauge calibrator since my car will not shut off if it is installed. When the calibrator fuse is removed my car shuts off fine but I have to rev the engine past 3000 rpms in order for my tach, fuel gauge, and voltage meter to work

You shouldn't be so confident.  The facts of the situation say that you have the diode on the wrong wire.  You could have checked.  But you're on a phone.  L.

post-8864-0-59201700-1423685985_thumb.png

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The revving up issue or the keeps running issue?  If you swapped but had the diode backward you'd get the "need to rev before charging" issue.  You have two things happening.  Actually you'd also get the keeps running issue if the diode was backward.

 

But the fact that you swapped them means you're not sure which is which.  Obviously not 100%.  Check the diagram I posted, if you can see it.

Edited by NewZed
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