Haltech 2000 / LS2 Truck Coils - No Spark

[thomas461]

What I have got!

74 260Z

1975 L28 Motor (Rebuilt and running before on carbs and stock ignition)

Haltech Sport 2000 ECU

Haltech CANBUS Wideband O2 Sensor

Z31 Trigger Wheel 

GM Truck Coils (12558693) (D581)

Magnecor Wires 

 

What I have done.

They are wired per Ron T. Instructions

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59961-ignition-wolf3d/?hl=12558693&do=findComment&comment=550142

 

I have installed a Haltech Sport 2000 ECU in my 74 260Z.  I am getting no spark off the coil packs when trying to set the initial timing.  

 

This is a new ECU and the first time I am trying to start it.    

 

When I place the inductive pick up on the Magnecor wire I get nothing on my timing light when turning the engine over.

 

Each wire has been removed and continuity tested.  Power, Ground, ECU Grounds have all been tested. 

 

I am seeing RPM in the ECU Manager so I know I have a signal from the CAS.  

 

This piece is critical to set the timing so the ECU "knows" the correct timing. 

 

 

FIX NOTE:  Faulty TIming Light.  GRRRR

Edited April 16, 2015 by thomas461

[ryan95i4]

All your settings in Main Setup correct, especially trigger and ignition settings?

[thomas461]

Yes.  I have checked them at least 10 times off what you had posted before just to check my math.  My poor 13 year old thinks his old dad is going batty for having him double check them to make sure I am not seeing what I want to see. 

 

I read folks have had issue getting signal through the Magencor wires with new timing lights.  I am going to purchase one of the cheapo spark plug testers with the LED lamp to see if I am getting spark.  If so I will put the timing light pick up on THAT and see if I can get a good signal.  I am right there, everything else is set and works properly. 

 

I am at the factory Timing angle of 70 Degrees and 0 teeth offset everything else matches what you had listed on yours.  I have the timing locked and my dwell is set at 4MS at the moment.  I do have the ignition locked at 10 Degrees. 

Edited April 13, 2015 by thomas461

[bradyzq]

Have you tested to see if there actually is a spark at a spark plug, not just through the plug wire with the timing light pickup?

 

If so, and there is none, have you tested that the coils have power DURING CRANKING? Sometimes, a seemingly good candidate source for 12V sneakily gets shut down by the load reduction relay while cranking.

[bradyzq]

Oh, I would suggest clean spark plugs too. If the plug is fouled, it becomes more difficult for the timing light to pick up the spark.

 

On a related note, you can try getting the timing close at cranking speed with the injectors electrically unplugged. That way you won't foul the plugs if your timing is off.

[thomas461]

I haven't tried holding the plug to ground to see if there is a spark.  I was going to do that last night, but I didn't have a helper to turn the engine over for me. 

 

The coils do have power during cranking.  I measure about 12.4V.  The plugs have maybe 500 miles on them and dont look too bad at all.  The injectors are disabled in the software so they wont spray fuel during this step.   

[thomas461]

The problem with not getting a spark was the expensive Innova 5568 Timing light.  The expensive one gave up the ghost after 3 uses.  The $9 spark tester from the parts store told me it was seeing spark.  A friend loaned me a cheap timing light from Harbor Freight and it worked like a champ.  Go figure.  Now, I need to figure out since I have set my timing according to my marks; I am getting light back firing and a fuel smell.  One step forward. 

Edited April 14, 2015 by thomas461

[clear2me]

Hello

 

Please add 360 to Timing angle of 70 Degrees

So the total for the timming angle is 430 degrees

 

Also make sure all fuses are okay and get 12V on coil and injections

 

Make sure fuel pump run and the battery is full charge

 

Hope these help

 

Mohammad

[thomas461]

I was at BDC when I installed the Turbo Distributor shaft.  I thought about it after installation and it was definitely a rookie mistake.  I knew I could make the adjustments in the software when I got the Haltech installed (Of course that was 10 months ago). 

 

I know this is elementary; but if someone else gets confused by the Turbo CAS using the Nissan Wheel/Disk this may help.

 

On the Nissan Disk there are two sets of windows.  The outer window with 360 Slots provides the ECU with crank timing.  The inner window which has slots based on the number of cylinders provides the ECU with cam timing.  The important part is one of the inner windows has to be larger, different, etc than the other on like the Z31 disk.   That provides you the ability to identify Piston 1.   You set your timing based on that larger window. 

 

Nissan Speak

360 Slots = 1 Complete Revolution of the motor (Suck, squeeze, bang, blow) 

180 Slots = 1 Complete CRANK revolution and you are on the opposing stroke on the Cam profile (Intake to Exhaust or vice versa)

 

Haltech Speak

Tooth Offset   

 

When making adjustments to the Tooth Offset think of it as moving around the Nissan Disk 1 slot for every tooth offset. 

 

 

It took me a while after staring at 360 slots on the Nissan Disk to realize that, like a conventional distributor, I needed to get this thing firing 180 tooth/slots off where I was. In the Haltech Software under the Main Setup, Basic, Trigger Tab I set the Tooth Offset: 180 teeth/slots off and checked it with the timing light.  The timing marks were right back where I started just on the compression stroke, perfect.   I connected the power to the fuel pump, enabled the injectors and had my son hit the key.  Three seconds later the Datsun breathed to life. 

 

SIDE NOTE: You can save and reboot from the software,  I was having better luck after saving having my son turn the car off and back on. 

 

Now, on to tuning the motor. 

Edited April 16, 2015 by thomas461

[ryan95i4]

Glad you got it sorted! Good luck with the tune