aziza z Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Hello, I recently completed an lt1 swap into my 240z. I had the complete donor 93 camaro before the swap. So I know it shifted fine before. However after the swap I cannot get the car to go into gear. What am I doing wrong? Autozone slave cylinder, custom stainless steel line, Wilwood 7/8 master cylinder. Everything is new. I Thought I had a faulty master and swapped for another one. No difference. There is no air in the system. I have been bleeding it for days. Basically the car goes into all the gears when the car is off no problem. However, when the car is on it wont go into gear. I even tried to adjust the pedal travel. I adjusted it for maximum throw but it makes a pretty bad noise when the clutch is pushed all the way down. I have since backed it out a little and it doesn't make the noise. I think something might be going on with the clutch fork. When I take out the slave cylinder and push on the fork it doesnt seem to move. But Im able to move the fork around rather sloppily side to side. Is it suppose to be like that? Any ideas on what I did wrong? Any help is appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 If it will shift when off but wont when running it simply isnt disengaging. You may have a bad stack-up of clutch parts (flywheel, disc, pressure plate, throw-out, clutch fork, pivot). Consider cutting a visibility window in the bottom of the bellhousing so you can see what is going on in there. Most likely problem is still air in hydraulics but it could certainly be something else. If not air, then a parts in incompatability of some kind. Maybe you will get lucky and the pivot just needs adjusting. What size is the master cylinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
331CI 280z Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Lt1s take a specific lt1 clutch. The slave cylinder etc operates differently. It is a pull style clutch vs a push style clutch. Google lt1 pull clutch. It's been a year and a half since I did the clutch on my 93 Callaway lt1. Standard clutch stuff doesnt work with an lt1 setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 If it will shift when off but wont when running it simply isnt disengaging. You may have a bad stack-up of clutch parts (flywheel, disc, pressure plate, throw-out, clutch fork, pivot). Consider cutting a visibility window in the bottom of the bellhousing so you can see what is going on in there. Most likely problem is still air in hydraulics but it could certainly be something else. If not air, then a parts in incompatability of some kind. Maybe you will get lucky and the pivot just needs adjusting. What size is the master cylinder? Clutch was never removed during the swap process. I bleed the clutch by pushing the rod in the slave cylinder, then bleeding the master up top. I even tried the conventional pump method. No more air is coming out. What is the preffered way to check for air? Pretty sure there is no air but I could be wrong. Lt1s take a specific lt1 clutch. The slave cylinder etc operates differently. It is a pull style clutch vs a push style clutch. Google lt1 pull clutch. It's been a year and a half since I did the clutch on my 93 Callaway lt1. Standard clutch stuff doesnt work with an lt1 setup. Mine is the push type. I just went and got a slave from autozone that was specific to the 93 lt1 camaro donor car. The fork seems to just "bottom out" though. Isnt it suppose to have a "spring" feel to it? Could be something with the throwout bearing then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I adjusted it for maximum throw but it makes a pretty bad noise when the clutch is pushed all the way down. I have since backed it out a little and it doesn't make the noise This implies that movement can be caused from the outside - pedals, cylinders, and linkage - but something's wrong inside. Assuming the "bad noise" is coming from inside the bell housing, there's not much you can fix from outside. You've already defined the range of movement as from "nothing happens" to "bad noise". If there's not a happy spot in between those two, you're kind of screwed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Just remembered something that I did myself on my first ever clutch for a small block chevy. 1979. I put the disc in backward. The disc springs rubbed on the flywheel bolts when the clutch was disengaged. Bad noise was produced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aziza z Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 Looks like Im going to drop the transmission again then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forPETEsake Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Did you figure out the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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