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Jay Gadsby

240Z Tank Modification

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Hey guys, just wanted to share what I have done with my 71 240Z tank. I read quite a few different threads for various vehicles and using the OEM Camaro (99-02) pump in a tank that was originally meant for carbed vehicles. Seems in the muscle car world this has been done numerous times, so why not here. Its nice to have the regulating and everything built in from the one pump.

 

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I am in the early stages (still) of doing an LS swap on my car, but at times I need a break from rust repair. Decided my next break would be my tank. So, I ordered up some rust stuff (can never get away from it on these cars it seems). Some Eastwood stuff, some KBS Coating tank sealer and etching materials.

 

Started out flushing the tank about 10 times. Ran some degreaser through it, let soak overnight like that, and rinse some more. The smell of gasoline was still slightly present, but you really had to get your nose into the tank to get a hint of it.

 

I decided to not run the expansion tank (I know, widely debated, to each his own type thing). I sealed off all except the 5/8 line to the filler neck. I used JB weld over a plug to fill those in. Including the feed and return line. The pickup is still in the there, but oh well.The plugs were just bolt shanks cut down and inserted after getting a coating of JB weld. They are not coming out, that is for sure. 

 

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Then I had to cut the hole for the pump in the top of the tank. The hole is roughly 2.875 in diameter, and of course the largest hole say my local Lowes had was 2.75. A little dremel action fixed that right up.The pump adapter plate is a setup from VetteWorks. Comes in a nice shiny stainless and fits like a glove over the OEM pump. 

 

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It only called in the instructions for tacking it in, and I on board with that. The entirety of the lower ring will be sealed in with fuel proof RTV to ensure nothing is getting by. Here is it all tacked in. 

 

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Now let me tell ya, I Have deployed 5 times in support of this country, been shot at, mortared, et cetera. I have not been quite as nervous as welding on a fuel tank that night. I didnt die, so that is a good thing. 

 

 

Next up was the sealer. I used KBS Gold sealer. Nw, let me tell you. This stuff hardens, like a rock hard. I got a little on one of the studs, and I seriously had to file it off. It leaves it with a nice HARD silver finish inside. After that was all done, I focused on cleaning up the outside. An entire rust stripper pad later, she cleaned up well. I still had some trace rust after, but sprayed with a rust encapsulator (thinned out to about 12% and sprayed with a 1.8 tip. Laid down well). Really changed the whole tank really. Went from:

 

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to:

 

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And with the pump installed, it looks official :)

 

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The pump right now sits about a half inch from the bottom of the tank, but the fuel sock is not in place yet. With the sock, it should be perfect. Terrible blurry pic, but you get the idea. 

 

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The only downside I have found thus far is the trunk needs to be clearanced to fit unless you lower the top of the tank. I plan on cutting out a spot large enough to allow access to the pump and building a small bulkhead (read 8"x8" should do). That should also allow for enough space for the lines to exit stage left to the front of the car. This pump only requires a feed and a t block to bring the return back. Only one line to the front of the car. The bucket on the pump supposedly keeps itself full at all times and prevents fuel starvation in cornering and accelerating. Only time will tell since I am no where near that point. I do have a pretty tank though. Now she goes into the attic till I am ready for her. Thanks for reading guys. 

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Now let me tell ya, I Have deployed 5 times in support of this country, been shot at, mortared, et cetera. I have not been quite as nervous as welding on a fuel tank that night. I didnt die, so that is a good thing.

 

:2thumbs:  :2thumbs:  :2thumbs:

 

BTW,  good job on the tank mod.... :hail:

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I will have to check it out. All my gauges are going go be swapped, so I just stuck with the LS fuel sender. It goes through about 90%of its swing before any interference, so it will just read full a bit longer then plummet haha. I really wanted to keep this a road going car, so I wanted to keep the spare well. Hoping to do a lot of cruise nights and such.

 

Thanks for the compliments guys. Trying unscrew this car is becoming a chore. It shall be doNE though.

Edited by Jay Gadsby

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Bob- the fittings can be found here. I will be ordering them this week. Mine is a very slow project right now.

http://m.summitracing.com/search?keyword=russell+push+-+on+EFI+fittings

 

Dan- I may look into that, was either that or make a cover and use bolts and foam gasketing to seal. Thanks for the idea!

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Jay,

Thanks for the link to the fittings!

You say in your post that the pump sits about 1/2" from the bottom of the tank but with the sock it should be perfect. Isn't the sock inside the bucket? Is there also a sock outside the bucket?

Also, are you going to run the stock pump or do the Racetronix upgrade. It's pump FPA-001B at racetronix.biz

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I have seen pictures with the sock on the outaide, but for the life of me I can't see how to mount it. Maybe it is an introvert :) even so, the pump is very close to the bottom, need to get a good picture. You could always bend in the top of the tank to get it on the bottom.

 

I am going to stick stock for now. For the time being it is a bone stock 5.3l. The bulkhead will make for easy access for future mods too :)

Edited by Jay Gadsby

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I found some pics of these units and there is a sock inside and outside. I found one post where the guy had to lengthen the unit to reach the bottom of the tank to access ALL the fuel. These are meant to sit hard on the bottom, hence the springloading. He took two boneyard units and cut the 3 legs out of one and extended the other with them using pipe unions. Looked pretty good.

Are you using the internal fuel regulator or external on your fuel rail? To use the internal I see guys simply making a loop from inlet to outlet and adding a T to go to the front of the car. No need for a full return line that way, no fuel heating from the engine. Wish I could but I need to boost reference my regulator :(

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I used MIG, with a normal mild wire. From the little research I did, and the very little welding it calls for, it has held up for the time being. From what I gather, the main issue is that the stainless in that spot will no longer be stainless, but It's also all sealed in with epoxy and encapsulator on the lower ring. The upper ring is still happy and shiny. The lower ring only calls for small tacks to the tank. The gaps left over are to be filled with a sealer. It is plenty solid. 

 

Side note- Got a lot of fuel line parts in today. Still in the process of rounding up parts, and still working on the motivation to finish the floor/frame rails so I can move on. 

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You're tackling floor pans and frame rails? Wow, you're adventurous! At some point I need to do the same, PO or inexperienced shop jacked the car up on the "frame rails" and bent them and the floor pans. But that's down the road sometime.

Are you adding the Bad Dog reinforcing to the frame rails?

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I am doing 1.5x3 tubing from front to back. Going to connect the rear "frame" all the way to the tc rod buckets, box it all in and then do the front frame rails. After all that, it's rocker time. Lol. If this car didn't hAve a clean title, semi low Vin and came with a perfect dash, I wouldn't have bothered. But, she is my retirement from the Army project.

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Got the nifty adapters installed. Very easy install. They have two rubber o-rings inside that seal against the plastic tube of the OEM ports. They seem to seal up nice and tight. Won't know till I get some pressure on em. Oh, I went with all Russell Brand fuel line and AN fittings. Couple more pics. 

 

Fittings installed. 

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Got the hard sealant in place. Fuel resistant of course ;)

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All back together. 

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Also, Bob, pulled the lower bucket back, it is an internal filter, and has a brand new one on it :) Now I have an extra. The gap between the top and bottom is a little less than a half inch so it seems unless I extend the legs, I will lose some of my fuel usability. Once complete, I wont have to drop the tank for mods, so I can do this if it becomes an issue. 

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I just finished modifying my tank to accept an Airtex 99-02 F-body fuel pump module. Started with using my shop-vac to blow all the vapors out :)

Then cut a hole in the top and welded on the VetteWorks retaining ring.

Then did a test fit of the module in the tank and set the tank in place to locate where to cut the hole in the hatch floor.

A friend donated a storage bin lid that I refinished to cover the hole. But I needed to build a base to accommodate the increased height of the tank + module + plumbing + wiring. Some 3/4" plywood, pieces of Home Depot paint stir stick and piece of aluminum angle  did the trick. I think it turned out pretty good!

 

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Yep, took it for a test drive down to the gas station to fill it up and check for leaks. All's good! The pump is SOOO much quieter than the external!

Just what I wanted to hear (pun intended). Great work!

 

Chris, I have read his stuff over the years, lots of good info for sure.

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