NagaSadow Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 (edited) So, I'm back after owning the car since mid October. After a few weeks, the carpet started to smell, so I pulled it out and it was just junk. So, I pulled the carpet out of the hatch area, and will be pulling the rest of the carpet out so I can start fresh. After living with the car, I still think the braking system could be a little better. I'm thinking vented rotors (the current ones need to be turned or replaced anyway). I was thinking of getting some braided lines, because it's not a huge amount of money, although the car is just a daily driver for now. The second issue is definitely the seats, because my girlfriend has back issues and she can't stand the stock seats. So, if anyone knows of comfortable seats that will fit and cost >$300, that'd be great. A non-leather material is preferred, by the way. So, that's $110 for rotors, possibly $80 for brake lines, $300 for seats, and then the rest will be to get the air conditioning fixed and performance. That being said, I'd like 220-300hp or something reasonable out of the N/A engine. I'm just looking to do it over time with parts that will help each other. What would the best intake, headers, exhaust, etc be for the goal? If there are any factory parts that are restrictive and not necessary, let me know so I can take them off. Keep in mind that I don't have to pass emissions or anything, but the exhaust needs to be under 93 decibels. Budget is let's say $2k for now, since it'll be over time and can be expanded. Part manufacturers/models would be nice if certain parts are suggested. Thanks for looking. Edited January 17, 2016 by NagaSadow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NgoZ Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 I found integra seats cheap and in nice condition on Craigslist for 80 bucks. Cleaned them up and installed them on another Z that I sold. I liked them alot. Simple and easy. Maybe try bleeding the entire brake system first before upgrading. Old or tainted fluid or maybe even air causing your issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NagaSadow Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 (edited) I found integra seats cheap and in nice condition on Craigslist for 80 bucks. Cleaned them up and installed them on another Z that I sold. I liked them alot. Simple and easy. Maybe try bleeding the entire brake system first before upgrading. Old or tainted fluid or maybe even air causing your issues. I know there's a thread on seats that fit, but how did the Integra's fit and how much support do they offer compared to stock? Within the first week I had to change the passenger side caliper, as it gave no pressure, and I also had the system bled because there were pockets of air preventing braking. But, again, the rotors I have are kinda worn and need to be turned or preferably replaced, so I don't think I'm going to get Wilwoods just yet. Edited January 13, 2016 by NagaSadow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NgoZ Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Much more support than stock. Used the old rails from the Z, found some spacers and slotted angle from the hardware store then about an hour later was finished. Wifey enjoyed the seats more and she has a bad back also. I have a set of prelude seats in storage that I haven't used yet also, which provide a bit more comfort and support than the integra supposedly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NagaSadow Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Much more support than stock. Used the old rails from the Z, found some spacers and slotted angle from the hardware store then about an hour later was finished. Wifey enjoyed the seats more and she has a bad back also. I have a set of prelude seats in storage that I haven't used yet also, which provide a bit more comfort and support than the integra supposedly. Any specific year or model that you pulled yours from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NagaSadow Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 No restoration involved with that thing, it's cherry... must have been garaged. Whatever you do, if you take stock parts off save them. I would convert to 240Z fiberglass bumpers, that's a big weight difference and part of the better looks of the 240. That air dam isn't going to work very well with the 280 bumper anyway. The stock fuel injection is pretty good, you have to do a lot to the engine mechanicals to surpass it. Headers, air intake, mild cam you should be fine. I would put some 215 to 225-45-R15 tires on it and some different wheels. Those wheels aren't venting the brakes very well. Ever heard of or used these? http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R1R&partnum=245WR5PR1RV2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillar Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 To get anything close to 300hp out of an N/A L6 is going to be quite expensive. Even 220 is something that will require a lot more than just exhaust and intake mods. To begin with you will need to change out engine internals. Switching to flat-top pistons and swapping the head to boost your compression will do a lot, but it sounds like you are mostly interested in bolt-ons right now. Headers/exhaust can give you a little bit, but you won't break into the 200s with just simple exhaust and intake mods. There are not many quick swaps for intake components to begin with (a common one is to upgrade to a 240SX throttle-body) and how much power they give you is widely debated ( some claim 5-10hp, while others claim it doesn't do anything unless other more complicated intake mods are done as well). One major limiting factor in the 280Z intake is the AFM. You can swap out for a bigger TB and port out the intake, but unless you can upgrade to a higher flow AFM or eliminate it all together (which is not a simple swap and requires quite a bit of modification) you are likely to see little or no gains from the other mods. These motors have proven that they can make well into the 300s, but that normally requires a complete engine overhaul including extensive head work if you want to see that N/A. There are shops like Datsun Spirit and Robelo that build 300+ hp L6s, but to the tune of $6000+ usually. That being said, even a stock tuned S30 is a lot of fun, and a few small mods can make it a complete blast even while remaining below 200hp. Enjoy Pillar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Apparently there's a lot of mythology out there, for all engines really, not just the L6 about what adds power. TB, AFM, CR - all suspect. BRAAP summarized these and added some fact-based reality in a past post. Not much dissent from his opinions. Worth reading. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ And all of these threads have value - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillar Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) What NewZed said is very true and the links he provided are well worth the read. I hadn't meant that upping the CR would be the solution to the kind of power you want, just that to get that kind of power you will need more than simple bolt-ons like exhaust/headers/intake. Edited January 17, 2016 by Pillar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NagaSadow Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) To get anything close to 300hp out of an N/A L6 is going to be quite expensive. Even 220 is something that will require a lot more than just exhaust and intake mods. To begin with you will need to change out engine internals. Switching to flat-top pistons and swapping the head to boost your compression will do a lot, but it sounds like you are mostly interested in bolt-ons right now. Headers/exhaust can give you a little bit, but you won't break into the 200s with just simple exhaust and intake mods. There are not many quick swaps for intake components to begin with (a common one is to upgrade to a 240SX throttle-body) and how much power they give you is widely debated ( some claim 5-10hp, while others claim it doesn't do anything unless other more complicated intake mods are done as well). One major limiting factor in the 280Z intake is the AFM. You can swap out for a bigger TB and port out the intake, but unless you can upgrade to a higher flow AFM or eliminate it all together (which is not a simple swap and requires quite a bit of modification) you are likely to see little or no gains from the other mods. These motors have proven that they can make well into the 300s, but that normally requires a complete engine overhaul including extensive head work if you want to see that N/A. There are shops like Datsun Spirit and Robelo that build 300+ hp L6s, but to the tune of $6000+ usually. That being said, even a stock tuned S30 is a lot of fun, and a few small mods can make it a complete blast even while remaining below 200hp. Enjoy Pillar Yeah, I understand that it won't just be as simple as an intake, headers, and an exhaust. However, I was looking for information about which parts would support 200-300hp and then what I'd have to do beyond that. I listed $2k as the budget, but I should have been more clear about that. What I meant is that if I have $2k right now, which parts would be reccomended to work with now to eventually build up to 220hp. It sounds like I'd be better off pulling a cheap L28ET from a junkyard, but in NC we don't have many Datsun's to choose from. So, I will read the two links that you guys provided, then I will come back and edit this with any questions I have. Apparently there's a lot of mythology out there, for all engines really, not just the L6 about what adds power. TB, AFM, CR - all suspect. BRAAP summarized these and added some fact-based reality in a past post. Not much dissent from his opinions. Worth reading. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ And all of these threads have value - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ Okay, so I went and read the first few posts, and it goes into a little more depth but still says what you guys have said. From what I gather, the best way to break into the 200's would be an intake, delete the AFM, go with an EMS like MegaSquirt, upgrade the pistons for a higher CR, and upgrade the exhaust. All of which seems to be doable as individual upgrades until everything is done. The camshaft upgrade seems like it would have to be the last upgrade since the stock computers can't handle larger cams, but I'll have to search some to find out how worth it the upgrade would be. That's essentially the information I was looking for. I'm sure there is other stuff that would help, but that is a start. Edited January 18, 2016 by NagaSadow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillar Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Okay, so I went and read the first few posts, and it goes into a little more depth but still says what you guys have said. From what I gather, the best way to break into the 200's would be an intake, delete the AFM, go with an EMS like MegaSquirt, upgrade the pistons for a higher CR, and upgrade the exhaust. All of which seems to be doable as individual upgrades until everything is done. The camshaft upgrade seems like it would have to be the last upgrade since the stock computers can't handle larger cams, but I'll have to search some to find out how worth it the upgrade would be. That's essentially the information I was looking for. I'm sure there is other stuff that would help, but that is a start. That sounds like the right track. Any big power increase is eventually going to require a new EMS, so it would be best to start there. That could be done simultaneously with a new intake system (manifold, delete AFM, larger TB, etc.) since doing so will require EMS mods anyways. After that, you will have the ability to make adjustments to the EMS as you do more modifications such as head work, cam, etc. Then you should be well on your way to the power you want. Pillar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NagaSadow Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=N6HECAM&Category_Code=NISSAN Anyone used the 84-119-6 can or know if it will work well with the L28? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted January 22, 2016 Share Posted January 22, 2016 Something's off. The valve lifts are less than stock. Duration's longer for two, but they claim more power and torque with less lift and duration even for the first. How so? Not an expert, take a grain of salt. The guys that seem to know almost all recommend Iskenderian. A phone call and a discussion, gets a cam profile. Or you can go with a "Magnum". Awkward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NagaSadow Posted January 23, 2016 Author Share Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) Something's off. The valve lifts are less than stock. Duration's longer for two, but they claim more power and torque with less lift and duration even for the first. How so? Not an expert, take a grain of salt. The guys that seem to know almost all recommend Iskenderian. A phone call and a discussion, gets a cam profile. Or you can go with a "Magnum". Awkward. I was reading a lot of threads saying that the Comp Cam's are better than the Schneider's, so I figured I'd ask. Is there a Cam that would be recommended for similar power that they claim? As in power from 2000-6000 RPM. Edited January 23, 2016 by NagaSadow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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