ZMONSTR Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 That car will never be right. Get out of it while you still can. I will give you $1500 to take it off your hands. LOL. Really appreciate your concern and generous offer, but I am determined to make it right and learn something in the process Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMONSTR Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 You can check to see if it is bottoming out by removing a front and rear wheel using jack stands, then put a jack under the control arm to achieve the same measurement from the center of the hub to the the fender arch as you had at static ride height with the wheel on and the car on the ground. Then take pictures of the springs so we can see how much travel is left. You won't be able to figure anything out with the shocks extended. We can help you. Wish you could ride in anotherZ to see if you think all Zs are too stiff. If so, my offer stands. I have been in my fair share of Z's but havent been in a classic Z for 20yrs at least. I took an hours drive, me driving, in a 370z Nismo.. and that is a stiff ride. The ride in the 260z just feels bumpy, not stiff. I may not be an expert, but I am pretty sure the current setup is designed for looks that than performance and/or feel. Right now, just a matter of understanding everything about coilovers vs say a Eibach progressive lowering spring and Tokico Illumina strut. I think that a spring and strut might raise the height of the car from what its currently at, but give me a much better ride. Plus the cost is more palatable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Ya, my youngest son originally (years and years ago) put Eibach's and Illumina's on his '76 280... That was part of our learning process too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Ride harshness is caused by only a few things - assuming the car is in good shape. 1. Tire sidewall height and construction. 2. Tire pressures. 3. Bushing compliance - urethane TC rod bushings are horrible and urethane LCA bushings that are tightened to factory specs are almost as bad. 4. Shock compression valving That's pretty much it. Now, if the suspension has been messed with or is worn then you need fix that first. Also look at bump travel before engaging the bump stop (minimum of 3" at the wheel for a street driven car). Adding progressive bump stops like the Konis helps with that. Urethane bump stops are junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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