dpuma8 Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 (edited) I bought ARP head studs and the ARP thread chaser to get ready for my head swap. I chased the threads multiple times and have no gunk on the chaser anymore but the new studs won't go in all the way. What do I do to fix this? Planning on going turbo as soon as I can get the head on. I used cutting oil put q tips in the holes to clean them. When using the thread chaser on these holes, there is always a lot of resistance near the bottom but I can work through it. What do I do next? Fill the holes with carb cleaner and then q tip it again? I tried to double nut and get it all the way in but it stopped with a thread still to go. I pulled the stud and the bottom thread was ground off. So are the block holes not all completely the same depth? The longer studs go in fine. All of the smaller ones show 2 or 3 threads Edited May 8, 2016 by dpuma8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 I bought ARP head studs and the ARP thread chaser to get ready for my head swap. I chased the threads multiple times and have no gunk on the chaser anymore but the new studs won't go in all the way. What do I do to fix this? Planning on going turbo as soon as I can get the head on. I used cutting oil put q tips in the holes to clean them. When using the thread chaser on these holes, there is always a lot of resistance near the bottom but I can work through it. What do I do next? Fill the holes with carb cleaner and then q tip it again? I tried to double nut and get it all the way in but it stopped with a thread still to go. I pulled the stud and the bottom thread was ground off. So are the block holes not all completely the same depth? The longer studs go in fine. All of the smaller ones show 2 or 3 threads Is your thread chaser a conventional tap? You need a bottoming tap to get the last few threads... http://www.kanabco.com/vms/cutting_tools_tap/cutting_tools_tap_06.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 ARP instructions should say to install the studs "hand-tight only". The nut is what will control the preload on the head, you just need ample thread-engagement on the stud. No need to have them go in "all the way". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbloke Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 I used a bottoming tap when I installed ARP head studs on my current engine, even with this cutting another couple of threads right at the bottom of the hole the studs still had approx one thread showing above the deck of the block when installed Use a bottoming tap, wind em in hand tight as far as they'll go and your good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpuma8 Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 That worked perfectly! So I used the chaser first and then added the bottoming M10x1.50 tap and the ARP bolts bolt all the way in now. Thanks for the replies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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